K-member upgrade
#2
FormerVendor
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It would actually be a weight savings
Not sure on the BMR but I think very similar to ours...another option would our K-member which saves 25lbs and is designed for both street use and drag racing.
Thought I would throw that out there just incase, If you have any questions please ask.
Thanks!
Ryan
Not sure on the BMR but I think very similar to ours...another option would our K-member which saves 25lbs and is designed for both street use and drag racing.
Thought I would throw that out there just incase, If you have any questions please ask.
Thanks!
Ryan
#5
FormerVendor
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We have a kit seen here- www.umiperformance.com/FBS001
Let me know if I can help anymore. Thanks!
Ryan
#6
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The factory Ls1 K-member with stand comes in at 55.75 lbs. Our K-member weighs in at 23 lbs for a 33.75 # weight savings . This K-member is plenty durable for both street/strip performance. Our K-member are also available in "turbo" versions for greater clearance for piping.
We also offer a front end package for additional weight savings-
This K-member is found on the fastest LS1 cars out there
Please feel free to ask any questions you might have about our products....
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#8
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A factory LT1 K-member w/stands weighs 51 lbs. The factory LT1 is slightly lighter then the factory LS1 due to the two large iron motor mounts on the LS1 version. The LT1 only has one large iron mount on the factory K-member.
We also offer the "Turbo" high clearance version for the LT1 guys
#10
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...itch-diet.html
The weight saving was good, but working on the car is so much nicer
#11
UNDER PRESSURE MOD
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I think I want a tubular k-member simply for the fact that the factory kmember eats anything that happens to fall while working. Bolts, nuts, wrenches, you name it, and it has been trapped on the kmember.
I have a question, can you remove the kmember with the front wheels still attatched? As my sig pic shows, I have a 4 post lift, and every intsall I see, people are removing the front suspsension to do the swap.
I have a question, can you remove the kmember with the front wheels still attatched? As my sig pic shows, I have a 4 post lift, and every intsall I see, people are removing the front suspsension to do the swap.
#12
10 Second Club
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Excellent to hear
Glad I could help! The lower a-arms will take another 8lbs off for a total of 33lbs.. and if you added chrome moly a-arms it would be another 1.5lbs for a total of 34.5lbs. The upper a-arms won't help much on weight savings.. they weigh about the same as factory.
We have a kit seen here- www.umiperformance.com/FBS001
Let me know if I can help anymore. Thanks!
Ryan
Glad I could help! The lower a-arms will take another 8lbs off for a total of 33lbs.. and if you added chrome moly a-arms it would be another 1.5lbs for a total of 34.5lbs. The upper a-arms won't help much on weight savings.. they weigh about the same as factory.
We have a kit seen here- www.umiperformance.com/FBS001
Let me know if I can help anymore. Thanks!
Ryan
#13
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Take the tie rods, both control arm bolts and shock bolts off each side and you can rotate the lower arm 180 deg out of the way giving you access to the factory K member while leaving the front suspension on.
Use the lift jack stand and support the engine under the oil pan and get to work on the factory piece.
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Glenn ***
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www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Last edited by BMR Sales2; 02-24-2009 at 10:23 AM.
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I think I want a tubular k-member simply for the fact that the factory kmember eats anything that happens to fall while working. Bolts, nuts, wrenches, you name it, and it has been trapped on the kmember.
I have a question, can you remove the kmember with the front wheels still attatched? As my sig pic shows, I have a 4 post lift, and every intsall I see, people are removing the front suspsension to do the swap.
I have a question, can you remove the kmember with the front wheels still attatched? As my sig pic shows, I have a 4 post lift, and every intsall I see, people are removing the front suspsension to do the swap.
You will have to remove the tires to do the swap. You can however leave the rest of the suspension intact and just pull it back out of the way. No need to even brake the brake lines loose so you don't have to bleed the brakes
Let me know if you have any other questions regarding the install...
#16
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I posted some info on the BMR I put on my car here.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...itch-diet.html
The weight saving was good, but working on the car is so much nicer
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...itch-diet.html
The weight saving was good, but working on the car is so much nicer
Project is coming along nicely
Thanks for the purchases ....
#17
UNDER PRESSURE MOD
iTrader: (19)
You'll be fine with the 4 post. Only thing you will need is one of the jack stands for a lift and two regular jack stands for the car. Support the front of the car on the lift with the small jack stands and take the front wheels off.
Take the tie rods, both control arm bolts and shock bolts off each side and you can rotate the lower arm 180 deg out of the way giving you access to the factory K member while leaving the front suspension on.
Use the lift jack stand and support the engine under the oil pan and get to work on the factory piece.
Take the tie rods, both control arm bolts and shock bolts off each side and you can rotate the lower arm 180 deg out of the way giving you access to the factory K member while leaving the front suspension on.
Use the lift jack stand and support the engine under the oil pan and get to work on the factory piece.
You will have to remove the tires to do the swap. You can however leave the rest of the suspension intact and just pull it back out of the way. No need to even brake the brake lines loose so you don't have to bleed the brakes
Let me know if you have any other questions regarding the install...
Let me know if you have any other questions regarding the install...
Thanks guys for the heads up. I thought I'd be able to do it that way but wasn't sure. Hell, people say that a 4-post sucks because you can't drop the motor out the bottom, but I say it can be done, you just need to make provisions.
#18
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (40)
I just figured there wouldnt be enough room to work but now that I've used a 4 post its not as bad as I thought it would be. And there's plenty of room to drop the engine on ours, the space between the ramps is just over 40". So if you yanked the K member first the engine would come out no problem.
__________________
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Last edited by BMR Sales2; 02-24-2009 at 11:50 AM.
#19
A factory LT1 K-member w/stands weighs 51 lbs. The factory LT1 is slightly lighter then the factory LS1 due to the two large iron motor mounts on the LS1 version. The LT1 only has one large iron mount on the factory K-member.
We also offer the "Turbo" high clearance version for the LT1 guys
We also offer the "Turbo" high clearance version for the LT1 guys
Thanks a lot for your time! Seems like it is but just to clarify, is that weight including the passenger side motor mount since your lt1 k-member replaces that piece? (just the motor mount, not the passenger side motor mount stand between the mount and engine)
#20