Brakes for Road racing DD
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Alright, well Im sad to say, but this thread hasnt helped me one bit..
I originally was gonna go with Hawk HPS, if I didnt find anything better ... which I ended up not finding anything better..(unless theyre full on race pads, which wont work well for street)..
So, Im gonna go with them again now..
Thanks anyway..
I originally was gonna go with Hawk HPS, if I didnt find anything better ... which I ended up not finding anything better..(unless theyre full on race pads, which wont work well for street)..
So, Im gonna go with them again now..
Thanks anyway..
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Dude, sorry people have lives and can't jump to your beck & call
.
Anyway, to answer your question is difficult. You seem to want it all ... great performance, no noise, no dust, no switching right away. You won't get everything all in one.
A TRUE dual-purpose pad is the Hawk HP+ ... not HPS, but the HP+. Run them on the front only, and leave the HPS on the rear. HP+ are designed to be run street & track, and they will work MUCH better than HPS.
However, if you don't mind switching pads occasionally, Hawk Blues, HT10's/HT14's, or DTC60's/70's have WAY better grip than HP+, and you CAN drive them on the street too. They aren't "recommended", but I've run both HT14's & DTC70's on the street, and not noticed any problems even when the pads are cold. However, those pads are dirty as stink, but they all grip like mad.
If you want CLEAN brakes, run ceramics ... they just won't have the same initial bite, but they do work as good (or better) as HPS (IMO) on the track.
When you decide exactly what you want is when you'll get the most accurate answer.
As for fluid, I've run regular DOT3 and DOT4 with no problems. Ford DOT3 fluid has a higher boiling point than most other DOT3's and even some DOT4's ... it's actually not bad stuff for off-the-shelf fluid.
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Anyway, to answer your question is difficult. You seem to want it all ... great performance, no noise, no dust, no switching right away. You won't get everything all in one.
A TRUE dual-purpose pad is the Hawk HP+ ... not HPS, but the HP+. Run them on the front only, and leave the HPS on the rear. HP+ are designed to be run street & track, and they will work MUCH better than HPS.
However, if you don't mind switching pads occasionally, Hawk Blues, HT10's/HT14's, or DTC60's/70's have WAY better grip than HP+, and you CAN drive them on the street too. They aren't "recommended", but I've run both HT14's & DTC70's on the street, and not noticed any problems even when the pads are cold. However, those pads are dirty as stink, but they all grip like mad.
If you want CLEAN brakes, run ceramics ... they just won't have the same initial bite, but they do work as good (or better) as HPS (IMO) on the track.
When you decide exactly what you want is when you'll get the most accurate answer.
As for fluid, I've run regular DOT3 and DOT4 with no problems. Ford DOT3 fluid has a higher boiling point than most other DOT3's and even some DOT4's ... it's actually not bad stuff for off-the-shelf fluid.
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For road race in my personal opinion, I'd probably run something a little better than ATE fluid. Maybe Motul or something a little better. ATE is good, but I hear it can lose it's boiling point over time from the research I've done.
Note that the ceramics Capn Pete is using is NOT the Hawk ceramics. I've never anyone say the Hawk ceramics stop better than HPS.
Sorry, I can't give you a good opinion on whether or not you should run HPS pads... I'd run them during a driving school, but honestly I'd have to see how they work to judge if I'd keep using them. I know HPS is probably as much as most people need for autoxing competitively, but I'm only slowing down from 70 at most which is also a rare case.
I don't really need brakes in the spec drags
Note that the ceramics Capn Pete is using is NOT the Hawk ceramics. I've never anyone say the Hawk ceramics stop better than HPS.
Sorry, I can't give you a good opinion on whether or not you should run HPS pads... I'd run them during a driving school, but honestly I'd have to see how they work to judge if I'd keep using them. I know HPS is probably as much as most people need for autoxing competitively, but I'm only slowing down from 70 at most which is also a rare case.
I don't really need brakes in the spec drags
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Alright, well Im sad to say, but this thread hasnt helped me one bit..
I originally was gonna go with Hawk HPS, if I didnt find anything better ... which I ended up not finding anything better..(unless theyre full on race pads, which wont work well for street)..
So, Im gonna go with them again now..
Thanks anyway..
I originally was gonna go with Hawk HPS, if I didnt find anything better ... which I ended up not finding anything better..(unless theyre full on race pads, which wont work well for street)..
So, Im gonna go with them again now..
Thanks anyway..
That's about as close as you can get to dual purpose.
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hes also not 'road racing'. its a track day. not a real race. ATE blue/red will do fine. motul is very expensive and will need to be bleed/changed very often.
use HP+ pads
solid rotors
ATE blue
use HP+ pads
solid rotors
ATE blue
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where can I find some?
edit:
I think most guys here dont actually road race then, if thats the definition..
Its not a professional race, but the car is being pushed to its limits and I do run circles around Porsches.
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Last edited by LSGunZ28; 05-07-2009 at 12:19 AM.
#28
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Dude, sorry people have lives and can't jump to your beck & call
.
Anyway, to answer your question is difficult. You seem to want it all ... great performance, no noise, no dust, no switching right away. You won't get everything all in one.
A TRUE dual-purpose pad is the Hawk HP+ ... not HPS, but the HP+. Run them on the front only, and leave the HPS on the rear. HP+ are designed to be run street & track, and they will work MUCH better than HPS.
However, if you don't mind switching pads occasionally, Hawk Blues, HT10's/HT14's, or DTC60's/70's have WAY better grip than HP+, and you CAN drive them on the street too. They aren't "recommended", but I've run both HT14's & DTC70's on the street, and not noticed any problems even when the pads are cold. However, those pads are dirty as stink, but they all grip like mad.
If you want CLEAN brakes, run ceramics ... they just won't have the same initial bite, but they do work as good (or better) as HPS (IMO) on the track.
When you decide exactly what you want is when you'll get the most accurate answer.
As for fluid, I've run regular DOT3 and DOT4 with no problems. Ford DOT3 fluid has a higher boiling point than most other DOT3's and even some DOT4's ... it's actually not bad stuff for off-the-shelf fluid.
![Icon Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_rolleyes.gif)
Anyway, to answer your question is difficult. You seem to want it all ... great performance, no noise, no dust, no switching right away. You won't get everything all in one.
A TRUE dual-purpose pad is the Hawk HP+ ... not HPS, but the HP+. Run them on the front only, and leave the HPS on the rear. HP+ are designed to be run street & track, and they will work MUCH better than HPS.
However, if you don't mind switching pads occasionally, Hawk Blues, HT10's/HT14's, or DTC60's/70's have WAY better grip than HP+, and you CAN drive them on the street too. They aren't "recommended", but I've run both HT14's & DTC70's on the street, and not noticed any problems even when the pads are cold. However, those pads are dirty as stink, but they all grip like mad.
If you want CLEAN brakes, run ceramics ... they just won't have the same initial bite, but they do work as good (or better) as HPS (IMO) on the track.
When you decide exactly what you want is when you'll get the most accurate answer.
As for fluid, I've run regular DOT3 and DOT4 with no problems. Ford DOT3 fluid has a higher boiling point than most other DOT3's and even some DOT4's ... it's actually not bad stuff for off-the-shelf fluid.
Well its just the first day I got like 10 replies, then I didnt get any the next couple, when I really needed to make a choice..
After the first post I made it clear that I can settle for noise and dust, because it was made clear that no such pad does exist.. and I never got any serious responses after that..
Anyhow, no big deal..
So the HP+ sounds like a great pad, do you guys think an autozone or pepboys carries them, or Imma have to do a special order??
Now, could you be more specific, when you say "Dirty as stink"....
you mean they just make a lot of dust?
Thats fine, I can live with that...
Maybe Ill settle for some Hawk Blues in that case or something similar and can go a few days later to change them to the Hawk HP+s....
or
just get the HP+s and stick with those... Ill have to think, but thanks, this reply helped me a lot with my decision... I just wanna know where to obtain these pads from, if its no trouble...
Hawk Blue, HT10 HT14, DTC70's , Carbotechs, Hawk HP+, etc...
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Is it gonna wear out on me after say 50 laps on a under 2 mile track where the most speed ill reach is probably 115/120...?
Small curvy track..
I know the Hawk HPS lasted me a few months of agressive driving with the raod racing included in it...
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unless im getting things mixed up, motul absorbs water more then other fluids. it works fine, but needs to be bled/changed often. if you get something very exotic and even more expensive like castrol SRF (or CRF, whatever), you dont have to bleed it as often.....but its about $80/qt.
as for buying things, amazon has ATE fluid, and many other racing fluids too. im pretty sure the high end castrol is there too.
for the brakes/rotors, go to tirerack. HP+ is the best comprimise you can get between a dual purpose pad. theyre not a fantastic street pad, and theyre not a fantastic track pad....but it can do both fairly well if needed. itll perform better if its on a slower track, without many 100mph+ brake zones. they will overheat and fade, especially without brake ducting.
eventually you may get a truck and trailer, or want to swap wheels/brakes at the track with a hitch and small trailer on your car. until then, do a good fluid, HP+, and solid brembos.
im VERY glad i got a trailer and tow my car to the track now. i dont have to worry about dual purpose pads, or fading the brakes and having to drive home on them.
as for buying things, amazon has ATE fluid, and many other racing fluids too. im pretty sure the high end castrol is there too.
for the brakes/rotors, go to tirerack. HP+ is the best comprimise you can get between a dual purpose pad. theyre not a fantastic street pad, and theyre not a fantastic track pad....but it can do both fairly well if needed. itll perform better if its on a slower track, without many 100mph+ brake zones. they will overheat and fade, especially without brake ducting.
eventually you may get a truck and trailer, or want to swap wheels/brakes at the track with a hitch and small trailer on your car. until then, do a good fluid, HP+, and solid brembos.
im VERY glad i got a trailer and tow my car to the track now. i dont have to worry about dual purpose pads, or fading the brakes and having to drive home on them.
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so... where can I obtain these brakes??
I know pep boys had Hawk HPS, but I dont think they had anything more agressive...
who sells these pads?
HP+ and Hawk Blue, etc..
I know pep boys had Hawk HPS, but I dont think they had anything more agressive...
who sells these pads?
HP+ and Hawk Blue, etc..
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Hawk HP+ for front, HPS for rear. Pep Boys stocks the HPS and that is what Sam runs on the track. YMMV
Upgrade to the C5 rotors if you can, well help dissipate more heat. There are two sets of brackets out there that don't require cutting spindles. If you're going to make a habit of the AutoX, I'd nut up for a C5 front kit though for the bigger rotors and longer lasting calipers.
ATE Super Blue fluid
I'd just order it all from Sam, you may pay $10 more for EVERYTHING but he's super helpful and you can get everything without multiple orders and stops. I support Sam whenever I can, he deserves it due to the time he spends contributing here.
FWIW, if you completely flush your brake fluid fairly often, you can get away with cheaper fluid. I'd do the Super Blue anyway with some stainless lines.
Good luck!
Upgrade to the C5 rotors if you can, well help dissipate more heat. There are two sets of brackets out there that don't require cutting spindles. If you're going to make a habit of the AutoX, I'd nut up for a C5 front kit though for the bigger rotors and longer lasting calipers.
ATE Super Blue fluid
I'd just order it all from Sam, you may pay $10 more for EVERYTHING but he's super helpful and you can get everything without multiple orders and stops. I support Sam whenever I can, he deserves it due to the time he spends contributing here.
FWIW, if you completely flush your brake fluid fairly often, you can get away with cheaper fluid. I'd do the Super Blue anyway with some stainless lines.
Good luck!
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Even though I know he's not autoxing... I don't think C5 kit would be very beneficial for autox. The stock calipers get the job done pretty well, weigh less, and won't bump you to SM class
You only have as much stopping power as your tires will allow before slipping into ABS.
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Even though I know he's not autoxing... I don't think C5 kit would be very beneficial for autox. The stock calipers get the job done pretty well, weigh less, and won't bump you to SM class
You only have as much stopping power as your tires will allow before slipping into ABS.
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Its all good
I figured I would toss that out there since you mentioned autox. With light track duty he'll prob be fine on stock brakes as well. C5 kit does look nice though.
What's the !sweatyballs mod by the way?
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What's the !sweatyballs mod by the way?
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Hawk HP+ for front, HPS for rear. Pep Boys stocks the HPS and that is what Sam runs on the track. YMMV
Upgrade to the C5 rotors if you can, well help dissipate more heat. There are two sets of brackets out there that don't require cutting spindles. If you're going to make a habit of the AutoX, I'd nut up for a C5 front kit though for the bigger rotors and longer lasting calipers.
ATE Super Blue fluid
I'd just order it all from Sam, you may pay $10 more for EVERYTHING but he's super helpful and you can get everything without multiple orders and stops. I support Sam whenever I can, he deserves it due to the time he spends contributing here.
FWIW, if you completely flush your brake fluid fairly often, you can get away with cheaper fluid. I'd do the Super Blue anyway with some stainless lines.
Good luck!
Upgrade to the C5 rotors if you can, well help dissipate more heat. There are two sets of brackets out there that don't require cutting spindles. If you're going to make a habit of the AutoX, I'd nut up for a C5 front kit though for the bigger rotors and longer lasting calipers.
ATE Super Blue fluid
I'd just order it all from Sam, you may pay $10 more for EVERYTHING but he's super helpful and you can get everything without multiple orders and stops. I support Sam whenever I can, he deserves it due to the time he spends contributing here.
FWIW, if you completely flush your brake fluid fairly often, you can get away with cheaper fluid. I'd do the Super Blue anyway with some stainless lines.
Good luck!