Brakes for Road racing DD
05-09-2009, 12:07 AM
#42
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haha what are you saying?
Anyway, I ordered Super blue 2 liters and Hawk HT10s and will run em on blank OEM rotors... (which I already have) but I may use the brembo blanks instead...
Im gonna run Hawk HPS on the rears..
Then after the track day is over, later that week or something, Im gonna run the Hawk HPS all around, on Blanks(as I always do) I was recommended the HPS over the HP+...
The HP+ although is a more agressive pad, is more grabby and not that good for a street driven car(or so I hear)...
Anyway, I ordered Super blue 2 liters and Hawk HT10s and will run em on blank OEM rotors... (which I already have) but I may use the brembo blanks instead...
Im gonna run Hawk HPS on the rears..
Then after the track day is over, later that week or something, Im gonna run the Hawk HPS all around, on Blanks(as I always do) I was recommended the HPS over the HP+...
The HP+ although is a more agressive pad, is more grabby and not that good for a street driven car(or so I hear)...
05-09-2009, 07:03 AM
#43
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Just my .02
05-09-2009, 07:23 AM
#44
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unless im getting things mixed up, motul absorbs water more then other fluids. it works fine, but needs to be bled/changed often. if you get something very exotic and even more expensive like castrol SRF (or CRF, whatever), you dont have to bleed it as often.....but its about $80/qt.
as for buying things, amazon has ATE fluid, and many other racing fluids too. im pretty sure the high end castrol is there too.
for the brakes/rotors, go to tirerack. HP+ is the best comprimise you can get between a dual purpose pad. theyre not a fantastic street pad, and theyre not a fantastic track pad....but it can do both fairly well if needed. itll perform better if its on a slower track, without many 100mph+ brake zones. they will overheat and fade, especially without brake ducting.
eventually you may get a truck and trailer, or want to swap wheels/brakes at the track with a hitch and small trailer on your car. until then, do a good fluid, HP+, and solid brembos.
im VERY glad i got a trailer and tow my car to the track now. i dont have to worry about dual purpose pads, or fading the brakes and having to drive home on them.
as for buying things, amazon has ATE fluid, and many other racing fluids too. im pretty sure the high end castrol is there too.
for the brakes/rotors, go to tirerack. HP+ is the best comprimise you can get between a dual purpose pad. theyre not a fantastic street pad, and theyre not a fantastic track pad....but it can do both fairly well if needed. itll perform better if its on a slower track, without many 100mph+ brake zones. they will overheat and fade, especially without brake ducting.
eventually you may get a truck and trailer, or want to swap wheels/brakes at the track with a hitch and small trailer on your car. until then, do a good fluid, HP+, and solid brembos.
im VERY glad i got a trailer and tow my car to the track now. i dont have to worry about dual purpose pads, or fading the brakes and having to drive home on them.
thats what im saying
05-09-2009, 02:14 PM
#45
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Depending on how serious you will be on the road course, keep an eye on the brake temps. Defects in other parts of the brake system can also contribute to overheating, believe it or not.
Where the HP Plus bothers some is that the slightly more aggressive friction compound doesn't allow decent brake modulation as compared to the HPS's. From experience, it's mostly with the track that screwed me up AFA my corner braking needs were concerned. AFA on the street with mostly emergency stopping needed, they were okay, but even then, I still prefered the HPS's over the HP Plus's.
Just my .02
Where the HP Plus bothers some is that the slightly more aggressive friction compound doesn't allow decent brake modulation as compared to the HPS's. From experience, it's mostly with the track that screwed me up AFA my corner braking needs were concerned. AFA on the street with mostly emergency stopping needed, they were okay, but even then, I still prefered the HPS's over the HP Plus's.
Just my .02
Thanks for the reply..
How can I keep an eye on the brake temps btw? Ive never heard of this before..
I get pretty serious when Im out there.. Its just a track meet, but I start getting pretty consistent and serious when im out there..
05-12-2009, 05:36 PM
#48
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Thanks...
ANyhow.. what is the minimum rotor thickness for a F body brake rotor?
front n rear please...
BTW I got myself some Hawk HPS pads and am just waiting for the Hawk HT10s to come from Strano..
ANyhow.. what is the minimum rotor thickness for a F body brake rotor?
front n rear please...
BTW I got myself some Hawk HPS pads and am just waiting for the Hawk HT10s to come from Strano..
05-12-2009, 06:23 PM
#49
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. If you clean it off SOON, you'll be ok. If you don't get to it right away like I've done, then it etches really bad, especially into the corners of the spokes at the rim 
.how long lasting are they?
Is it gonna wear out on me after say 50 laps on a under 2 mile track where the most speed ill reach is probably 115/120...?
Small curvy track..
I know the Hawk HPS lasted me a few months of agressive driving with the raod racing included in it...
Is it gonna wear out on me after say 50 laps on a under 2 mile track where the most speed ill reach is probably 115/120...?
Small curvy track..
I know the Hawk HPS lasted me a few months of agressive driving with the raod racing included in it...
. You'll get a lot more than ~50 laps out of them. Good choice on the HT10's, btw 
.
05-12-2009, 08:18 PM
#50
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My rims are already dirty as hell from older Brake dust.. So what the heck..
Btw, I think I got the minimum rotor thickness #s from alldata, but can someone verify.. This was not viewed by me personally... My friend texted me..
My front rotors seem to be more than .050", less than past minimum spec and my rars are fine though...
Btw, I think I got the minimum rotor thickness #s from alldata, but can someone verify.. This was not viewed by me personally... My friend texted me..
My front rotors seem to be more than .050", less than past minimum spec and my rars are fine though...
05-13-2009, 08:02 AM
#51
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I have no clue what the minimum thickness is supposed to be. I "think" it's somewhere around ~30mm +/-. Isn't it usually stamped right on the rotor hub area somewhere?
05-13-2009, 12:34 PM
#52
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Component Specifications
Application
Specification
Metric
English
Front Brakes
Discard Thickness (See Important)
30.7 mm
1.209 in
Maximum Lateral Runout
0.13 mm
0.005 in
Minimum Thickness After Refinish
31.08 mm
1.223 in
Minimum Wear Thickness
31.08 mm
1.223 in
Rotor Thickness (New)
32 mm
1.26 in
Thickness Variation
0.013 mm
0.0005 in
Rear Brakes
Discard Thickness
24.51 mm
0.965 in
Maximum Lateral Runout
0.15 mm
0.006 in
Minimum Wear Thickness
24.89 mm
0.980 in
Rotor Thickness (New)
25.90 mm
1.020 in
Minimum Thickness After Refinish
24.89 mm
0.980 in
Rear Axle Shaft Flange
0.05 mm
0.002 in
Thickness Variation
0.013 mm
0.0005 in
Important: All brake rotors have a discard dimension cast into the rotor. Replace any rotor that does not meet this specification. After refinishing the rotor, replace any rotor that does not meet the maximum or minimum thickness after refinish specifications.
05-13-2009, 07:45 PM
#56
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I have brembo blanks that are on my car now, in the front, that Im gonna machine.. Theyve never been machined, so they should be fine.....
I just wanted those other rotors (below spec ones) as spares...
Now I will not attempt this until Im sure, but if the rotor is below spec, by that much.. COULD they be used as emergency spares?? Or absoultely Not!?
(Not to race on or any hard braking)... But just to work as some brakes, on the way back from the track
(In case I totally warped the old rotors or something)...
Thanks in advance..
I just wanted those other rotors (below spec ones) as spares...
Now I will not attempt this until Im sure, but if the rotor is below spec, by that much.. COULD they be used as emergency spares?? Or absoultely Not!?
(Not to race on or any hard braking)... But just to work as some brakes, on the way back from the track
(In case I totally warped the old rotors or something)...
Thanks in advance..
05-13-2009, 10:41 PM
#57
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You could probably get by with them for emergency only. But that is all I would recommend. I just turned my rotors on my wife's ws6, and they are approximately 1.195". I am going to run them for now but new ones will be very soon.
Just my .02,
Joe
Just my .02,
Joe
05-14-2009, 03:57 AM
#58
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Ive actually ran rotors about as thin as the ones you mentioned before.. (maybe like 2.5 years ago)... I think I used em for a couple of months and I never had an issue(maybe I was lucky)...
