Tested that out yet?

 

Well we had a storm come through Friday here and a tornado also so my power has been out and we have been cleaning up the mess since another bad storm came through Sunday and took down alot of trees so I haven't been able to get to my car. I plan on doing so this weekend. I work long hours during the week.

 

Did I sell you a CD changer a long time ago?

 

I still have air in my power steering system because after 2 weeks it still is making swirling noises, whine, pulsates and other strange noises. I tried bleeding the system like leadfoot told me to do and still had air bubbles that never ended. Guy that put the rack on said it could take weeks. It has been 2 weeks today.

 

It shouldn't take weeks, it should take minutes. If it doesn't stop bubbling/gurgling within a minute or two, using the method I described, then there's something wrong. Possibly a bad rack, possibly lines that aren't connected tightly, allowing air to be sucked into the return line (the o-rings are in place, and OK, right??), possibly incorrect fluid in the system....

 

I took the car back to where they put the rack on and they told me it takes up to weeks for the air to come out. The funny thing is after the rack was put on the steering wheel shimmy got worse on the highway then just at the end of last week after 3 weeks the gurling got better or almost gone and the steering wheel is back to just shimming like it was before so it is better than when they put the rack on and I drove it home. The alignment place did all the work on it with the outer tie rod ends and so I don't know about the lines being tight but no leaks. 2 weeks after the rack I still had bubbles in my resouvior though. I still have the clunk noise in the drivers side and the looseness in the steering wheel when I hit a bump.

Because of the tornado that came through my area it has been a mess and I have not been able to take the car in to another alignment shop that was recommended to see if they can figure out what is going on. I am going to try to this weekend to jack the car up again and try the 12 and 6 o'clock tug to see what I get. The noise and shimmy of course is driving me crazy but everyone's power was out for days to a week and lots of damage everywhere.

 

The upper balljoints do not turn by hand.

The clank noise that started after the rack and outer tie rod ends were replaced is only on the drivers side and I can't figure out what it could be. It only does it when there is a load on the vehicle like braking sometimes quickly or taking off. It does it when there is a driveway where the tire on the drivers side pivots from the uneven driveway or like if there is a slight dip it will do it sometimes. Sounds like metal on metal and a definite clank. The engine mount was loosened to raise the engine.

 

How long have you had the car...?
Have the rubber bushings and ball joints ever been replaced (on the the front upper/lower arms)...?
Have the front hubs/bearings ever been replaced...?
Have you ever damaged the front suspension by running over anything (kerb, pothole)...?
Has the car ever been in an crash/accident...?

 

The car has never been wrecked. I have owned the car for 3 years and up to recently no problems. I bought it from someone close to me so I know the history on the car. Nothing on the front end has been replaced except for the rack and outer tie rod ends I just paid to replace. I have never hit a curb and avoid pot holes. I baby the car on the roads.

 

Well I didn't have any luck finding anything wrong this weekend. I just don't have enough experience with it I guess. I had a helper and we could not find a way to put the control arm on the jack stand close to the ball joints because it was sloped and not flat when we jacked the car up on the crossmember. I checked the bolts and they were over tightened so nothing loose I could find on that. It still makes a noise when rocking the steering wheel back and forth but I can't tell where is is coming from. Guess I will just have to take it Weds. to another alignment place someone recommended and hopefully he can help me. I am running out of options at this point with it.

Steering wheel still jerks to the left when I cross speed bumps and such like it never did before, clank noise, and steering wheel shimmy comes and goes all still there.

 

If the suspension has the original parts (bushings, hub/bearings), then after 10 years they would be worn out (the rubber looks good, but has softened; the wheel bearing would be sloppy)... the front end won't be able to "retain" an alignment.

 

Agreed. The only way to get the car back to brand new would be to replace all wearable parts one by one.

If this is too costly I am not sure how to advise you.

That is what I did to my car. The labor was all me and I still didn't like the price tag.

 

See if you can borrow some ramps, get the front of the car up on them, then place a 12" piece of a 2x4 across your jack's "cradle", and lift the lower control arms, one at a time....If you can't locate any ramps, go to your local lumber yard, purchase a 10' length of a 2x10, have the lumber yard cut it into 4 pcs, with one end bevelled at 45 degrees. Nail two together, to make a pair of 4" high "ramps". Then proceed as described above.........

 

I went to another alignment shop today and the drivers side of the new rack is broke so I have to now get the other alignment shop to warranty it and put another rack on. I am not sure if that is all of the problem but he said it was definitely messed up on that side.

 

Was the mount broke or did he mean an internal issue?

If the mount was broke that would be a huge drivability issue. It would def make the car handle like crap.

 

broke internallly on the drivers side.