All parts needed for lowering
11-07-2003, 03:48 PM
#1
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All parts needed for lowering Im looking into lowering my formula and I know that it will be bouncy as hell if I don't get the proper parts. Im thinking of going with the eibach pro kit and I know i need LCA's and a rear sway bar but what else do I need to keep my car from turning into a trampolene after I lower it. What about a shock and strut change? Just looking for the proper info. 
11-07-2003, 05:00 PM
#2
It is advisable to upgrade your shocks at the same time you perform a spring change.
Lower control arm relocation brackets would be a good investment.
An adjustable panhard is suggested since lowering may offcenter the rear axle.
Rear sway bar is not required.
Lower control arm relocation brackets would be a good investment.
An adjustable panhard is suggested since lowering may offcenter the rear axle.
Rear sway bar is not required.
11-10-2003, 09:58 AM
#3
The only parts required for a proper lowering are...
lowering springs
lca relocation brackets
adjustable panhard bar (not absolutely necessary unless you're running wider then stock wheels)
front end alignment.
Additional parts can further improve the handling of your car, but the two serious issues that crop up when you lower your car are your front end getting out of alignment, and rear wheel hop on acceleration which is alleviated with the relocation brackets.
lowering springs
lca relocation brackets
adjustable panhard bar (not absolutely necessary unless you're running wider then stock wheels)
front end alignment.
Additional parts can further improve the handling of your car, but the two serious issues that crop up when you lower your car are your front end getting out of alignment, and rear wheel hop on acceleration which is alleviated with the relocation brackets.
02-23-2004, 11:45 PM
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I installed the Pro-Kit on my 2000 SS a few months ago without touching anything else. It definitely handles better. I know new shocks would improve it further, but for my needs, the springs alone were enough. It is not bouncy at all, and actually rides better than the stock springs did. As far as wheel hop on acceleration, I have noticed none at all. I plan to install new sway bars, SLP bolt-in SFC's, new pan hard rod and new boxed lower control arms in the next two months.
02-24-2004, 12:48 AM
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stock shocks will wear quickly over time, and the ride quality will suffer. it's a bitch to do the install, so get it done right the first time so you don't have to mess with it again.
lca's, relo brackets, and even an adjustable panhard rod are all not necessary. lca's and the relo will help traction, but with stock suspension on and almost a 2" drop, my car has minimal traction issues. and a panhard will keep the tires from wearing unevenly. once again, with stock parts on and almost a 2" drop, i've not had any tire-wearing issues.
traction may be fine, or you might hop/spin/both everywhere. then you can spend your money on lca's, and see if that solves the problem. if not, then get relo's... ect ect and with the panhard also. but spend the money on the shock/springs first, and get them installed. spend the money on the other parts as you see fit.
lca's, relo brackets, and even an adjustable panhard rod are all not necessary. lca's and the relo will help traction, but with stock suspension on and almost a 2" drop, my car has minimal traction issues. and a panhard will keep the tires from wearing unevenly. once again, with stock parts on and almost a 2" drop, i've not had any tire-wearing issues.
traction may be fine, or you might hop/spin/both everywhere. then you can spend your money on lca's, and see if that solves the problem. if not, then get relo's... ect ect and with the panhard also. but spend the money on the shock/springs first, and get them installed. spend the money on the other parts as you see fit.
02-24-2004, 07:40 AM
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Shocks are the only things that affect bounce from
spring change. The others are for restoring geometry
and for a 1" drop I think the only one that's high-
payoff is relocation brackets. If you weren't flexing
LCAs before (enough to care) you probably aren't
after. I put in an adjustable PHB set to stock bar's
length and the wheel offset isn't enough to need
adjusted (stock 17x9 SS rims). You will probably find
the PHB setting requirement at high suspension travel
though, and reach that travel more w/ lowering. No
squeals over RR tracks, no need PHB (want, for squirm
in the corners, is another matter than adjustability).
spring change. The others are for restoring geometry
and for a 1" drop I think the only one that's high-
payoff is relocation brackets. If you weren't flexing
LCAs before (enough to care) you probably aren't
after. I put in an adjustable PHB set to stock bar's
length and the wheel offset isn't enough to need
adjusted (stock 17x9 SS rims). You will probably find
the PHB setting requirement at high suspension travel
though, and reach that travel more w/ lowering. No
squeals over RR tracks, no need PHB (want, for squirm
in the corners, is another matter than adjustability).
