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Clunking noise on deceleration after TA install

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Old 06-03-2009, 08:29 AM
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Default Clunking noise on deceleration after TA install

I installed a UMI adjustable torque arm (transmission mount w/ poly bushing)a few weekends ago and it seems as though as long as the driveline is loaded I have no noise. However upon low speed deceleration where the driveline is not loaded I can hear what appear to be clunking noises coming from the torque arm.

Is this normal or is this noise something I need to check out. All bolts and nuts were tightly secured on install. Maybe re-check these?
Old 06-03-2009, 09:32 AM
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Hello,

Check the two 5/8" bolts that attach the torque arm to the rear bracket, these are the bolts you loosen to adjust pinion angle. The bolts run through (2) pieces of 3/8" thick steel plate and it takes a lot of pressure to compress these plates. If the plates are not compressed enough the torque arm will shift slightly causing a bang.. Check this out... if you have additional questions please ask.

Thanks!
Ryan
Old 06-03-2009, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by UMI Performance
Hello,

Check the two 5/8" bolts that attach the torque arm to the rear bracket, these are the bolts you loosen to adjust pinion angle. The bolts run through (2) pieces of 3/8" thick steel plate and it takes a lot of pressure to compress these plates. If the plates are not compressed enough the torque arm will shift slightly causing a bang.. Check this out... if you have additional questions please ask.

Thanks!
Ryan
Thanks, I will check those.
Old 07-13-2009, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by UMI Performance
Hello,

Check the two 5/8" bolts that attach the torque arm to the rear bracket, these are the bolts you loosen to adjust pinion angle. The bolts run through (2) pieces of 3/8" thick steel plate and it takes a lot of pressure to compress these plates. If the plates are not compressed enough the torque arm will shift slightly causing a bang.. Check this out... if you have additional questions please ask.

Thanks!
Ryan
Just thought I would throw an update in here. I tightened those bolts (had to take the TA of the car) and everything is now quiet and solid. I could see a small gap when I pulled the TA off the car. Thanks Ryan! Happy w/ the product! Also put a STB on the car and that is a nice piece as well!
Old 07-14-2009, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by JamRWS6
Just thought I would throw an update in here. I tightened those bolts (had to take the TA of the car) and everything is now quiet and solid. I could see a small gap when I pulled the TA off the car. Thanks Ryan! Happy w/ the product! Also put a STB on the car and that is a nice piece as well!
Glad to hear that fixed it! Usually that is the problem
Old 07-24-2009, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by UMI Performance
Hello,

Check the two 5/8" bolts that attach the torque arm to the rear bracket, these are the bolts you loosen to adjust pinion angle. The bolts run through (2) pieces of 3/8" thick steel plate and it takes a lot of pressure to compress these plates. If the plates are not compressed enough the torque arm will shift slightly causing a bang.. Check this out... if you have additional questions please ask.

Thanks!
Ryan
Im am having the same issue...but i dont have 5/8" bolts i have 15/16" bolts and nuts.
Old 07-24-2009, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by badaSS346
Im am having the same issue...but i dont have 5/8" bolts i have 15/16" bolts and nuts.
15/16" would be the head size for the wrench... 5/8" is the shank size and thread size.

Hope that helps,
Ryan
Old 07-24-2009, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by UMI Performance
15/16" would be the head size for the wrench... 5/8" is the shank size and thread size.

Hope that helps,
Ryan
Yep i understand now.
Old 07-24-2009, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by UMI Performance
Hello,

Check the two 5/8" bolts that attach the torque arm to the rear bracket, these are the bolts you loosen to adjust pinion angle. The bolts run through (2) pieces of 3/8" thick steel plate and it takes a lot of pressure to compress these plates. If the plates are not compressed enough the torque arm will shift slightly causing a bang.. Check this out... if you have additional questions please ask.

Thanks!
Ryan
Whats the torque spec for those those bolts?
Old 07-27-2009, 12:46 AM
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as tight as you can get it, or 100 ft lbs
Old 07-27-2009, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by metalmechanic
as tight as you can get it, or 100 ft lbs
Hello
Its hard to torque the top bolt (due to clearance issues with the tunnel) but its anywhere from 100-120 ft lbs.
Thanks
Brad
Old 07-27-2009, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by UMI Sales
Hello
Its hard to torque the top bolt (due to clearance issues with the tunnel) but its anywhere from 100-120 ft lbs.
Thanks
Brad
bah, its not hard with a box end and 1/2" torque wrench
Old 07-27-2009, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by metalmechanic
as tight as you can get it, or 100 ft lbs
LOL ... stop just before you push the car off the lift!
Old 07-27-2009, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by mitchntx
LOL ... stop just before you push the car off the cinder blocks!
Fixed it.
Old 07-27-2009, 11:29 PM
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I've been havin' the same problem with my TA mount. I've torqued to 130 pounds though and still the noise is back. Granted mine is BMR (sorry UMI, I needed one in a hurry and all I could find local was BMR...I do have UMI hardwar kit though, SFCs, and double adjustable PHB) but I think it's the same problem with the plates being so thick.

My question is when I've torqued, it's always been on a lift that had the suspension unloaded, would I get better results on a drive on lift?

Any other suggestions to get this right would be fantastic...it's driving me crazy!
Old 07-28-2009, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by z28ss4me
I've been havin' the same problem with my TA mount. I've torqued to 130 pounds though and still the noise is back. Granted mine is BMR (sorry UMI, I needed one in a hurry and all I could find local was BMR...I do have UMI hardwar kit though, SFCs, and double adjustable PHB) but I think it's the same problem with the plates being so thick.

My question is when I've torqued, it's always been on a lift that had the suspension unloaded, would I get better results on a drive on lift?

Any other suggestions to get this right would be fantastic...it's driving me crazy!

Is it mounted on a factory or aftermarket rear end?

The rear suspension being loaded or unloaded should not make a difference.
Old 07-28-2009, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by BMR Tech
Is it mounted on a factory or aftermarket rear end?

The rear suspension being loaded or unloaded should not make a difference.
Factory rear end...Hmm...I'll try again the weekend with a great amount of thread locker. Red or blue? Thanks!
Old 07-28-2009, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by z28ss4me
Factory rear end...Hmm...I'll try again the weekend with a great amount of thread locker. Red or blue? Thanks!
Red.
Old 07-28-2009, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by JamRWS6
Red.
Damn that's what I used last time...oh well...try try again.



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