Clunking noise on deceleration after TA install
#1
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Clunking noise on deceleration after TA install
I installed a UMI adjustable torque arm (transmission mount w/ poly bushing)a few weekends ago and it seems as though as long as the driveline is loaded I have no noise. However upon low speed deceleration where the driveline is not loaded I can hear what appear to be clunking noises coming from the torque arm.
Is this normal or is this noise something I need to check out. All bolts and nuts were tightly secured on install. Maybe re-check these?
Is this normal or is this noise something I need to check out. All bolts and nuts were tightly secured on install. Maybe re-check these?
#2
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Hello,
Check the two 5/8" bolts that attach the torque arm to the rear bracket, these are the bolts you loosen to adjust pinion angle. The bolts run through (2) pieces of 3/8" thick steel plate and it takes a lot of pressure to compress these plates. If the plates are not compressed enough the torque arm will shift slightly causing a bang.. Check this out... if you have additional questions please ask.
Thanks!
Ryan
Check the two 5/8" bolts that attach the torque arm to the rear bracket, these are the bolts you loosen to adjust pinion angle. The bolts run through (2) pieces of 3/8" thick steel plate and it takes a lot of pressure to compress these plates. If the plates are not compressed enough the torque arm will shift slightly causing a bang.. Check this out... if you have additional questions please ask.
Thanks!
Ryan
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Hello,
Check the two 5/8" bolts that attach the torque arm to the rear bracket, these are the bolts you loosen to adjust pinion angle. The bolts run through (2) pieces of 3/8" thick steel plate and it takes a lot of pressure to compress these plates. If the plates are not compressed enough the torque arm will shift slightly causing a bang.. Check this out... if you have additional questions please ask.
Thanks!
Ryan
Check the two 5/8" bolts that attach the torque arm to the rear bracket, these are the bolts you loosen to adjust pinion angle. The bolts run through (2) pieces of 3/8" thick steel plate and it takes a lot of pressure to compress these plates. If the plates are not compressed enough the torque arm will shift slightly causing a bang.. Check this out... if you have additional questions please ask.
Thanks!
Ryan
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Hello,
Check the two 5/8" bolts that attach the torque arm to the rear bracket, these are the bolts you loosen to adjust pinion angle. The bolts run through (2) pieces of 3/8" thick steel plate and it takes a lot of pressure to compress these plates. If the plates are not compressed enough the torque arm will shift slightly causing a bang.. Check this out... if you have additional questions please ask.
Thanks!
Ryan
Check the two 5/8" bolts that attach the torque arm to the rear bracket, these are the bolts you loosen to adjust pinion angle. The bolts run through (2) pieces of 3/8" thick steel plate and it takes a lot of pressure to compress these plates. If the plates are not compressed enough the torque arm will shift slightly causing a bang.. Check this out... if you have additional questions please ask.
Thanks!
Ryan
#5
FormerVendor
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Just thought I would throw an update in here. I tightened those bolts (had to take the TA of the car) and everything is now quiet and solid. I could see a small gap when I pulled the TA off the car. Thanks Ryan! Happy w/ the product! Also put a STB on the car and that is a nice piece as well!
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Hello,
Check the two 5/8" bolts that attach the torque arm to the rear bracket, these are the bolts you loosen to adjust pinion angle. The bolts run through (2) pieces of 3/8" thick steel plate and it takes a lot of pressure to compress these plates. If the plates are not compressed enough the torque arm will shift slightly causing a bang.. Check this out... if you have additional questions please ask.
Thanks!
Ryan
Check the two 5/8" bolts that attach the torque arm to the rear bracket, these are the bolts you loosen to adjust pinion angle. The bolts run through (2) pieces of 3/8" thick steel plate and it takes a lot of pressure to compress these plates. If the plates are not compressed enough the torque arm will shift slightly causing a bang.. Check this out... if you have additional questions please ask.
Thanks!
Ryan
#9
Hello,
Check the two 5/8" bolts that attach the torque arm to the rear bracket, these are the bolts you loosen to adjust pinion angle. The bolts run through (2) pieces of 3/8" thick steel plate and it takes a lot of pressure to compress these plates. If the plates are not compressed enough the torque arm will shift slightly causing a bang.. Check this out... if you have additional questions please ask.
Thanks!
Ryan
Check the two 5/8" bolts that attach the torque arm to the rear bracket, these are the bolts you loosen to adjust pinion angle. The bolts run through (2) pieces of 3/8" thick steel plate and it takes a lot of pressure to compress these plates. If the plates are not compressed enough the torque arm will shift slightly causing a bang.. Check this out... if you have additional questions please ask.
Thanks!
Ryan
#11
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I've been havin' the same problem with my TA mount. I've torqued to 130 pounds though and still the noise is back. Granted mine is BMR (sorry UMI, I needed one in a hurry and all I could find local was BMR...I do have UMI hardwar kit though, SFCs, and double adjustable PHB) but I think it's the same problem with the plates being so thick.
My question is when I've torqued, it's always been on a lift that had the suspension unloaded, would I get better results on a drive on lift?
Any other suggestions to get this right would be fantastic...it's driving me crazy!
My question is when I've torqued, it's always been on a lift that had the suspension unloaded, would I get better results on a drive on lift?
Any other suggestions to get this right would be fantastic...it's driving me crazy!
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I've been havin' the same problem with my TA mount. I've torqued to 130 pounds though and still the noise is back. Granted mine is BMR (sorry UMI, I needed one in a hurry and all I could find local was BMR...I do have UMI hardwar kit though, SFCs, and double adjustable PHB) but I think it's the same problem with the plates being so thick.
My question is when I've torqued, it's always been on a lift that had the suspension unloaded, would I get better results on a drive on lift?
Any other suggestions to get this right would be fantastic...it's driving me crazy!
My question is when I've torqued, it's always been on a lift that had the suspension unloaded, would I get better results on a drive on lift?
Any other suggestions to get this right would be fantastic...it's driving me crazy!
Is it mounted on a factory or aftermarket rear end?
The rear suspension being loaded or unloaded should not make a difference.