jegster torque arm?
07-23-2009, 09:27 AM
#2
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 556
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Never actually saw that one. I keep trying to find a major problem with it, but I don't see anything outstanding.
The one thing that I might be a LITTLE wary of is to make sure that the tunnel-mount is thick enough.
The one thing that I might be a LITTLE wary of is to make sure that the tunnel-mount is thick enough.
07-23-2009, 11:36 AM
#3
Restricted User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 707
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ya, i was kind of wondering about taht too. i was also thinking about making some metal strips to bolt too on the inside but if it wasnt nescisary i wasnt going to waist my time with it
07-23-2009, 11:53 AM
#4
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 556
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, I've got an Unbalanced Engineering Decouple Torque Arm, the race version. Basically, a torque arm very similar to that one attaches to a bracket that's bolted with 3 bolts to one side of my tunnel. Now, on the other side is another bracket that is welded to my roll cage. But, the fact is that only 3 bolts hold one to the other. And it stands up to some pretty bad abuse (I'm not kind to my racecar).
If mine holds up, I'd think that would, too. It looks like it uses a dozen or more bolts. One thing you "may" want to do is grab a scrap of 1/8" plate, mimic the bolt pattern, and use it on the inside of the tunnel. I'd think just one plate on one side of the tunnel and one on the other. No need to attempt to curve it up and over.
That may be overkill, but it'll cost $15 for scraps like that at Lowes or Home Depot (cheaper if you can find a metal shop).
If mine holds up, I'd think that would, too. It looks like it uses a dozen or more bolts. One thing you "may" want to do is grab a scrap of 1/8" plate, mimic the bolt pattern, and use it on the inside of the tunnel. I'd think just one plate on one side of the tunnel and one on the other. No need to attempt to curve it up and over.
That may be overkill, but it'll cost $15 for scraps like that at Lowes or Home Depot (cheaper if you can find a metal shop).
07-23-2009, 03:50 PM
#5
Restricted User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 707
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, I've got an Unbalanced Engineering Decouple Torque Arm, the race version. Basically, a torque arm very similar to that one attaches to a bracket that's bolted with 3 bolts to one side of my tunnel. Now, on the other side is another bracket that is welded to my roll cage. But, the fact is that only 3 bolts hold one to the other. And it stands up to some pretty bad abuse (I'm not kind to my racecar).
If mine holds up, I'd think that would, too. It looks like it uses a dozen or more bolts. One thing you "may" want to do is grab a scrap of 1/8" plate, mimic the bolt pattern, and use it on the inside of the tunnel. I'd think just one plate on one side of the tunnel and one on the other. No need to attempt to curve it up and over.
That may be overkill, but it'll cost $15 for scraps like that at Lowes or Home Depot (cheaper if you can find a metal shop).
If mine holds up, I'd think that would, too. It looks like it uses a dozen or more bolts. One thing you "may" want to do is grab a scrap of 1/8" plate, mimic the bolt pattern, and use it on the inside of the tunnel. I'd think just one plate on one side of the tunnel and one on the other. No need to attempt to curve it up and over.
That may be overkill, but it'll cost $15 for scraps like that at Lowes or Home Depot (cheaper if you can find a metal shop).
07-25-2009, 09:10 AM
#6
Teching In
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: chicago
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have one on my car, and it is an ok piece. I used the big fender washers on the inside of the interior rather than using a plate(was too lazy to go back to the store). Yes the metal is thin there and a plate would prolly be a good idea and make sure you use lock washers. Mine hasnt shifted at all yet so it does hold up well.
If i had to install it all over again I would eye ball your pinion angle when you toss it in before drilling any holes. Get the front plate to as close to the pinion angle that you want, then measure/drill the holes. I just rammed it against the tunnel and installed it which was around +1angle. Good luck.
If i had to install it all over again I would eye ball your pinion angle when you toss it in before drilling any holes. Get the front plate to as close to the pinion angle that you want, then measure/drill the holes. I just rammed it against the tunnel and installed it which was around +1angle. Good luck.
07-25-2009, 03:51 PM
#7
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (27)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: jackson tn
Posts: 1,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i got one on my car, got the angle set at -2 and the car 60s 1.5s all day suppasix is rite you need to watch ur install, make sure u got that slider about a inch out when you drill your hole or you will be drilling another set!!! good luck
