understeer q?
06-05-2009, 10:00 PM
#21
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2001-02 1LE's were taken over by SLP. They had a hollow 35mm front bar, the 21mm rear, Koni DA's. As best I can tell stock springs.
06-06-2009, 12:21 PM
#24
How about just slowing down and working on in slow out fast. Most people try to go ***** out into the turn, going to fast, understeer then missing the next turn cause they screwed up the 1st turn. Since they screwed up the 1st turn they push harder and understeer more. I improved my times by just slowing down and learning the car 1st, then worked on a a more balanced setup. But that been said sometime we assume the basic are basic for everyone.
06-06-2009, 06:43 PM
#25
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I would def suggest the front wheel alignment. Though if your turning in too hard too quick, you don't want to mask that fact either.
Are you new to autoxing? Have you taken instructors? Just wondering.. I got a friend who's only done it for a little less than a year who has hesitated to take instructors until now. I told him even I take instructors when I can and I've been autoxing for 5 years. I would imagine that if you only have less than 2-3 years of experience then instructors will probably help your times go down along with your understeer more than a suspension change/tuning.
Your front shocks might be set a bit high too. You said you had them at 7. 8 might be a bit high in the back too.. I honestly don't know AGX's at all. Seems high though. The one **** adjusts compression and rebound at the same time. Cranking up the damping to max isn't good for performance.
Are you new to autoxing? Have you taken instructors? Just wondering.. I got a friend who's only done it for a little less than a year who has hesitated to take instructors until now. I told him even I take instructors when I can and I've been autoxing for 5 years. I would imagine that if you only have less than 2-3 years of experience then instructors will probably help your times go down along with your understeer more than a suspension change/tuning.
Your front shocks might be set a bit high too. You said you had them at 7. 8 might be a bit high in the back too.. I honestly don't know AGX's at all. Seems high though. The one **** adjusts compression and rebound at the same time. Cranking up the damping to max isn't good for performance.
06-06-2009, 08:22 PM
#26
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I would def suggest the front wheel alignment. Though if your turning in too hard too quick, you don't want to mask that fact either.
Are you new to autoxing? Have you taken instructors? Just wondering.. I got a friend who's only done it for a little less than a year who has hesitated to take instructors until now. I told him even I take instructors when I can and I've been autoxing for 5 years. I would imagine that if you only have less than 2-3 years of experience then instructors will probably help your times go down along with your understeer more than a suspension change/tuning.
Your front shocks might be set a bit high too. You said you had them at 7. 8 might be a bit high in the back too.. I honestly don't know AGX's at all. Seems high though. The one **** adjusts compression and rebound at the same time. Cranking up the damping to max isn't good for performance.
Are you new to autoxing? Have you taken instructors? Just wondering.. I got a friend who's only done it for a little less than a year who has hesitated to take instructors until now. I told him even I take instructors when I can and I've been autoxing for 5 years. I would imagine that if you only have less than 2-3 years of experience then instructors will probably help your times go down along with your understeer more than a suspension change/tuning.
Your front shocks might be set a bit high too. You said you had them at 7. 8 might be a bit high in the back too.. I honestly don't know AGX's at all. Seems high though. The one **** adjusts compression and rebound at the same time. Cranking up the damping to max isn't good for performance.
06-07-2009, 09:42 AM
#27
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Yeah definitely instructor for you 
like I said, even I take them with me when I can. If you have anyone in your local club who drives in the Nats, get them to ride passenger with you. Hell.. let them drive your car if you can. You might pick up new ways to drive your car through certain gates that you didn't know you could do.
like I said, even I take them with me when I can. If you have anyone in your local club who drives in the Nats, get them to ride passenger with you. Hell.. let them drive your car if you can. You might pick up new ways to drive your car through certain gates that you didn't know you could do.
06-07-2009, 06:39 PM
#28
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Yeah definitely instructor for you like I said, even I take them with me when I can. If you have anyone in your local club who drives in the Nats, get them to ride passenger with you. Hell.. let them drive your car if you can. You might pick up new ways to drive your car through certain gates that you didn't know you could do.
like I said, even I take them with me when I can. If you have anyone in your local club who drives in the Nats, get them to ride passenger with you. Hell.. let them drive your car if you can. You might pick up new ways to drive your car through certain gates that you didn't know you could do.
06-07-2009, 07:26 PM
#29
First, if you have Eibach springs they are 400# front and 115-180# in the rear(not the best rear rates). It seems to me as if setting 8 on the rear shocks is probably too stiff. I'd try a baseline of 4 for both the front and back and see how the balance is. You can play with shock settings and tire pressures. For street use I find that 33# front and 30# rears works well for me. For autox I found that 40-44# worked well in the front with street tires and anything over 30# in the rear was pretty much worthless.
Personally for street driving I like a bit of understeer-the car seems less twitchy.
Personally for street driving I like a bit of understeer-the car seems less twitchy.
06-07-2009, 07:30 PM
#30
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First, if you have 1LE springs they are 360# front and 130-180# in the rear. It seems to me as if setting 8 on the rear shocks is probably too stiff. I'd try a baseline of 4 for both the front and back and see how the balance is. You can play with shock settings and tire pressures. For street use I find that 33# front and 30# rears works well for me. For autox I found that 40-44# worked well in the front with street tires and anything over 30# in the rear was pretty much worthless.
Personally for street driving I like a bit of understeer-the car seems less twitchy.
Personally for street driving I like a bit of understeer-the car seems less twitchy.
06-07-2009, 07:36 PM
#31
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First, if you have Eibach springs they are 400# front and 115-180# in the rear(not the best rear rates). It seems to me as if setting 8 on the rear shocks is probably too stiff. I'd try a baseline of 4 for both the front and back and see how the balance is. You can play with shock settings and tire pressures. For street use I find that 33# front and 30# rears works well for me. For autox I found that 40-44# worked well in the front with street tires and anything over 30# in the rear was pretty much worthless.
Personally for street driving I like a bit of understeer-the car seems less twitchy.
Personally for street driving I like a bit of understeer-the car seems less twitchy.
06-07-2009, 07:46 PM
#33
To the OP. IMO 37 PSI in the rear is too much-especially on the street.
Now my car was/is set up differently than the OP. I have 1LE front springs(360#) and stock rear (114#) with Strano revalved front Bilsteins and 4th gen Bilstein rears(not optimal and yes it pushed) but over 30# in the rear I couldn't get it to hook with street tires and it ran consistently slower times with me and a much better driver switching runs. I recently switched to a stiffer rear shock and it was a big difference in feel9but I haven't autocrossed it yet). Much less tail lag around corners and onramps though.
To the OP switching to a fixed rate rear spring might be a good starting point. A pair of takeoff stock rear springs would be the cheapest option(no isolator and wrap the top coil with heater hose). If autocrossing the softer rate will help you hook. I've ridden in track cars with stock rear springs and while they are soft the bit of understeer allows for margin of error. Another option is Strano springs-along with proper shock tuning.
Not sure what the rates are on the SLP rear springs. The factory 1LE rear spring is 130-180#.
Now my car was/is set up differently than the OP. I have 1LE front springs(360#) and stock rear (114#) with Strano revalved front Bilsteins and 4th gen Bilstein rears(not optimal and yes it pushed) but over 30# in the rear I couldn't get it to hook with street tires and it ran consistently slower times with me and a much better driver switching runs. I recently switched to a stiffer rear shock and it was a big difference in feel9but I haven't autocrossed it yet). Much less tail lag around corners and onramps though.
To the OP switching to a fixed rate rear spring might be a good starting point. A pair of takeoff stock rear springs would be the cheapest option(no isolator and wrap the top coil with heater hose). If autocrossing the softer rate will help you hook. I've ridden in track cars with stock rear springs and while they are soft the bit of understeer allows for margin of error. Another option is Strano springs-along with proper shock tuning.
Not sure what the rates are on the SLP rear springs. The factory 1LE rear spring is 130-180#.
