pjb

iTrader: (2)

all the reading on shocks I have done lately tells me that the choice for bilsteins would be the strano spec ones. getting Sam's expertise and support would make the choice a no brainer for me.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

But you should remember that not all Bisltein's are the same Bilstein's... What I sell we use a different rear shock valving with because I dislike the current HD/SLP rear valving (which is too much like an SS's deCarbon).

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Two points--which you seem to gloss over.

1. Koni's aren't $1000/set, while not cheap, $732 and up is significantly less than $1000--about $268 less according to my math.

2. The car you drove: Where were the shocks set? What other mods were done? Did it have a heavy axle? heavy wheels/tires? Both those matter because unsprung weight makes ride suffer in relation to how much you have--regardless of shocks or springs.

Hey, I'm glad you rode in a car on Koni's and it's ok if you didn't like them, but that's a very minority opinion, and one that could well be based on the owner's particular setup and/or other parts on the car than also have an effect.

SSmoken

iTrader: (26)

all i am looking to buy are a set of bilsteins for the rear. not all places sell rears only.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Not to sound like an ***, but I think most people on here should not be giving advice on shocks. I myself even try hard to not over-state what I know about shocks, and I've been racing for 5-6 years now. The misleading information and sometimes wrong info is so overwhelming, it gets to the point where it gets too tiring and time consuming to correct people.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I can sell rears only... I just don't have them listed on my website that way, because it's not wise--despite what the experts here think. Bilstein rears, they way I use them, are $85 each. The fronts weren't sitting at home not wearing while the rears were out being used.... You can put rears only on, and then you'll get to see everyday how crappy they are compared to new rears.

Doing one end only is like changing only two of the tires that all have the same miles on them (and assuming you aren't doing burnouts or the alignment is messed up) and should have similar wear.

SSmoken

iTrader: (26)

Damn I hate being poor.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

If you are really stuck, you can do pairs... but the car is only as good as the weakest link.

SSmoken

iTrader: (26)

what are driving on worn fronts with new rears like ?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Like a hobby horse. The two ends have completely different damping rates. If the roads are smooth you might well find it passable. But the more imperfect the driving conditions, or the harder you drive the car the more disjointed the car will feel. Basically lke a new car at one end, and a 100k mile on at the other (or however many miles you have).

Of course it depends on how old your stock shocks are. A 20k mile set isn't nearly as badly worn as a 100k mile set, so doing rears only that way is not as terrible as doing it with really trashed fronts.

SSmoken

iTrader: (26)

Well I'm on 130k stockers. My car also needs breaks is why I can't afford a whole set at the moment but they make alot of noise so I'm going with new rears for now. Maybe in a month or so I can replace the fronts. Your the only sponsor giving any input and that's how you get business so I'll be calling you about a pair of your bilstein rears either today or tomorrow since I'm at work and may not have time today. Either way you'll be getting a call. Thanks for the help man.

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

If you can only do 2 shocks at a time go with the 3rd gen Koni on the rear for $110. Set them on the softest setting. After getting the front shocks replaced you can bump the rear up a bit stiffer. The Bilsteins on the back with stock front shocks will cause the rear to steer the car.