darknessxyz

iTrader: (22)

I'm thinking about putting a brake cooling duct. I need some kinda idea to brain storm myself. I'm planning to do all four brakes but the front has more priority. Please post pics and parts you used. Thanx

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Trust me, the backs don't get very hot at all. Just focus on the fronts.

The hardest part of transfering air from the nose to the rotor is getting past the tire. Some guys run 3" tubing over the sway bar and some run under the sway bar. I think the best way is to route the air into the front frame rail and then have it exit in the wheel well. It's super clean and will not get tore up. Just cut 2 holes in the frame rail and weld in some 3" rings. Then you squirt some foam into it to route the air.



Then on the inside of the wheel well you make another hole and attach a length of 3" hose from the frame hole to the rotor.



If your not familiar with the frame rails, here is a pic. It is about 3.5" x 3.5" and is hollow from the nose to the firewall.


All other designs are inferior, but I have a ton of pics of them if you want to see.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

unless youre road racing, you dont need ducts. im also sure you dont want to cut up your frame rails. check frrax for the latest ideas people are using. there are several styles of ducting to choose from. one kind attaches behind the rotor and blows air on the inside of the rotor. another attaches more 'inside' of the rotor, and blow air up through the vanes, cooling them from the inside out. its disgustingly expensive though, and totally not worth it unless youre racing wheel to wheel.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Here are some car links.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/428479
http://home.comcast.net/~miketaylor68/Gordon/gordon.htm
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/296918/7
http://www.harlan-engineering.com/hawk/hawk.html
http://www.paveglio.com/firebird/2001tamods.html#koni
http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?&showtopic=7237
http://www.geocities.com/teutonic_sp...ifications.htm
http://community.webshots.com/album/119042495uWYODB
http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=4902

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

It doesn't have to be expensive.
I researched it years ago, hence all the links, but I never added them simply because my brake temps never got high enough to need them.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=12391

Anything running to the front air dam or below the sway bars will get ripped off the car. Been there, done that.

The above link shows what I used and couldn't be happier. It was crazy expensive, though ... about $300 for everything.

If you want to keep from carving up the exterior, I suggest exactly what I've done for backing plates and hose, but use marine grade ventilation blowers to force air through the rotors. If it were legal in my class, I would use the blowers.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...n-Line+Blowers

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't call $300 crazy expensive, but it is a lot just to route air.

Here's a crazy idea I had.
Since my pads need a stop or 2 to warm up, I was considering adding a small vent from the radiator fans to the rotors. I think the air temp is significantly lower than the water temp, so a steady 150* F might just be the ideal situation for my street car. Any thoughts on that?

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Doesn't one of the race series have small fans directed to the rotors, something similar in shape/design to a computer fan, but more powerful?

darknessxyz

iTrader: (22)

Yea, I'm kinda don't wanna cut into the frame rail.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

If you do it right, it will be stronger than stock. I can see that it's not for everyone, though. Are you keeping track of the temps? Do you really need brake ducts or are you just looking for things to do?

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

NASCAR and many other series run inline blowers in addition to ducting. i was considering buying a stock of tubes, blowers, and modified inline blowers from the IROC auction, but when the price went up over $700 i gave up.

darknessxyz

iTrader: (22)

Planning for some track day. Do you guys think the ducting will prevent disc wrappage?

JamRWS6

I think you mean warping and No.

69TA

iTrader: (263)

I always felt the firebird and formula bumper covers was a
natural with the two round holes for routing air into ducting
for the brakes.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

I did too and I tried using the foglight holes for ducting air.

The problem is the that the impact beam is about 3 or 4 inches behind the nose cover and you can't make the turn to get the duct work routed to naca ducts because of the limited space.

I really wanted to use blowers and leave the nose intact, but the rule ***** said it was unnecessary ...

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

On a C5 vette.



On an F-body.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I've never had a warpage related issue personally (6 years now) so I can't really comment on that. Typically overheating issues will boil the fluid and give you a spongy pedal, so flushing your fluid and replacing it with some fresh, hi temp brake fluid will help there. Dramaitc over heating will crack your rotors. I know you have C5 brakes right now, but what pads? Stock vette pads are not that great for performance use. If you swap over to the CTS-V calipers, those pads are a different story. They are reportedly much more agressive than the stock vette pads.

I would suggest you flush your fluid now and then run what you brung at the track. After a lap or 2 of hard braking, see how your pedal feels. Do the pads give up? Some brake vents for the front can be added pretty easily in my opinion so I wouldn't worry too much about it right now.

Very overheated rotor.

darknessxyz

iTrader: (22)

^^Those cracks are the exact reason why I always use plain, maybe slot. I've some carbotech semi-metalic pad for the track use. When I install those C5 brake, I bleed all four brakes with 3 small bottles of DOT4 fluid.

If no one buys my C5 setup or my wheel clearance doesn't work out, then I'm keeping the C5 setup. When it comes to a stop, I'm always take an extra step. That's why I'm thinking about a brake duct. Better be safe than sorry.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Getting back to brake ducts and cooling, I'm going to let you guys continue on without me. My major contribution to this thread is a ton of pics to check out. I'm sure darknessxyz can get plenty of good ideas about what works best for him. Keep in mid that (all things being equal) a larger rotor is going to lower your brake temps becuase you gain mechanical leverage meaning they don't have to work as hard. So maybe ducts will be needed, maybe not. It all depends. Later.

69TA

iTrader: (263)

Jason how is the guy with the red TA routing the air from the front to the frame rails?