Show me your brake cooling duct please.
#1
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Show me your brake cooling duct please.
I'm thinking about putting a brake cooling duct. I need some kinda idea to brain storm myself. I'm planning to do all four brakes but the front has more priority. Please post pics and parts you used. Thanx
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Trust me, the backs don't get very hot at all. Just focus on the fronts.
The hardest part of transfering air from the nose to the rotor is getting past the tire. Some guys run 3" tubing over the sway bar and some run under the sway bar. I think the best way is to route the air into the front frame rail and then have it exit in the wheel well. It's super clean and will not get tore up. Just cut 2 holes in the frame rail and weld in some 3" rings. Then you squirt some foam into it to route the air.
Then on the inside of the wheel well you make another hole and attach a length of 3" hose from the frame hole to the rotor.
If your not familiar with the frame rails, here is a pic. It is about 3.5" x 3.5" and is hollow from the nose to the firewall.
All other designs are inferior, but I have a ton of pics of them if you want to see.
The hardest part of transfering air from the nose to the rotor is getting past the tire. Some guys run 3" tubing over the sway bar and some run under the sway bar. I think the best way is to route the air into the front frame rail and then have it exit in the wheel well. It's super clean and will not get tore up. Just cut 2 holes in the frame rail and weld in some 3" rings. Then you squirt some foam into it to route the air.
Then on the inside of the wheel well you make another hole and attach a length of 3" hose from the frame hole to the rotor.
If your not familiar with the frame rails, here is a pic. It is about 3.5" x 3.5" and is hollow from the nose to the firewall.
All other designs are inferior, but I have a ton of pics of them if you want to see.
Last edited by JasonWW; 06-18-2009 at 07:33 AM.
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unless youre road racing, you dont need ducts. im also sure you dont want to cut up your frame rails. check frrax for the latest ideas people are using. there are several styles of ducting to choose from. one kind attaches behind the rotor and blows air on the inside of the rotor. another attaches more 'inside' of the rotor, and blow air up through the vanes, cooling them from the inside out. its disgustingly expensive though, and totally not worth it unless youre racing wheel to wheel.
#4
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Here are some car links.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/428479
http://home.comcast.net/~miketaylor68/Gordon/gordon.htm
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/296918/7
http://www.harlan-engineering.com/hawk/hawk.html
http://www.paveglio.com/firebird/2001tamods.html#koni
http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?&showtopic=7237
http://www.geocities.com/teutonic_sp...ifications.htm
http://community.webshots.com/album/119042495uWYODB
http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=4902
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/428479
http://home.comcast.net/~miketaylor68/Gordon/gordon.htm
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/296918/7
http://www.harlan-engineering.com/hawk/hawk.html
http://www.paveglio.com/firebird/2001tamods.html#koni
http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?&showtopic=7237
http://www.geocities.com/teutonic_sp...ifications.htm
http://community.webshots.com/album/119042495uWYODB
http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=4902
#5
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unless youre road racing, you dont need ducts. im also sure you dont want to cut up your frame rails. check frrax for the latest ideas people are using. there are several styles of ducting to choose from. one kind attaches behind the rotor and blows air on the inside of the rotor. another attaches more 'inside' of the rotor, and blow air up through the vanes, cooling them from the inside out. its disgustingly expensive though, and totally not worth it unless youre racing wheel to wheel.
I researched it years ago, hence all the links, but I never added them simply because my brake temps never got high enough to need them.
Last edited by JasonWW; 06-18-2009 at 08:46 AM.
#6
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unless youre road racing, you dont need ducts. im also sure you dont want to cut up your frame rails. check frrax for the latest ideas people are using. there are several styles of ducting to choose from. one kind attaches behind the rotor and blows air on the inside of the rotor. another attaches more 'inside' of the rotor, and blow air up through the vanes, cooling them from the inside out. its disgustingly expensive though, and totally not worth it unless youre racing wheel to wheel.
Anything running to the front air dam or below the sway bars will get ripped off the car. Been there, done that.
The above link shows what I used and couldn't be happier. It was crazy expensive, though ... about $300 for everything.
If you want to keep from carving up the exterior, I suggest exactly what I've done for backing plates and hose, but use marine grade ventilation blowers to force air through the rotors. If it were legal in my class, I would use the blowers.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...n-Line+Blowers
Last edited by mitchntx; 06-18-2009 at 09:15 AM.
#7
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I wouldn't call $300 crazy expensive, but it is a lot just to route air.
Here's a crazy idea I had.
Since my pads need a stop or 2 to warm up, I was considering adding a small vent from the radiator fans to the rotors. I think the air temp is significantly lower than the water temp, so a steady 150* F might just be the ideal situation for my street car. Any thoughts on that?
Here's a crazy idea I had.
Since my pads need a stop or 2 to warm up, I was considering adding a small vent from the radiator fans to the rotors. I think the air temp is significantly lower than the water temp, so a steady 150* F might just be the ideal situation for my street car. Any thoughts on that?
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NASCAR and many other series run inline blowers in addition to ducting. i was considering buying a stock of tubes, blowers, and modified inline blowers from the IROC auction, but when the price went up over $700 i gave up.
#15
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The problem is the that the impact beam is about 3 or 4 inches behind the nose cover and you can't make the turn to get the duct work routed to naca ducts because of the limited space.
I really wanted to use blowers and leave the nose intact, but the rule ***** said it was unnecessary ...
#17
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I would suggest you flush your fluid now and then run what you brung at the track. After a lap or 2 of hard braking, see how your pedal feels. Do the pads give up? Some brake vents for the front can be added pretty easily in my opinion so I wouldn't worry too much about it right now.
Very overheated rotor.
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^^Those cracks are the exact reason why I always use plain, maybe slot. I've some carbotech semi-metalic pad for the track use. When I install those C5 brake, I bleed all four brakes with 3 small bottles of DOT4 fluid.
If no one buys my C5 setup or my wheel clearance doesn't work out, then I'm keeping the C5 setup. When it comes to a stop, I'm always take an extra step. That's why I'm thinking about a brake duct. Better be safe than sorry.
If no one buys my C5 setup or my wheel clearance doesn't work out, then I'm keeping the C5 setup. When it comes to a stop, I'm always take an extra step. That's why I'm thinking about a brake duct. Better be safe than sorry.
#19
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Getting back to brake ducts and cooling, I'm going to let you guys continue on without me. My major contribution to this thread is a ton of pics to check out. I'm sure darknessxyz can get plenty of good ideas about what works best for him. Keep in mid that (all things being equal) a larger rotor is going to lower your brake temps becuase you gain mechanical leverage meaning they don't have to work as hard. So maybe ducts will be needed, maybe not. It all depends. Later.
Last edited by wssix99; 01-01-2013 at 04:14 PM. Reason: Inappropriate Commentary Removed