Need to swap rack n pinion... Is there a write-up on it?
06-19-2009, 09:21 PM
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READ the post about 7-9 below
good luck, Johnny
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ain-today.html
good luck, Johnny
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ain-today.html
06-20-2009, 02:42 AM
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Here is a link to the installation instructions for the BMR Manual Steering Conversion Kit. The first page and a half illustrate how to remove the stock rack. I hope this helps!!
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/INSTALL/RK002.pdf
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/INSTALL/RK002.pdf
07-01-2009, 03:44 PM
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I'm going to tackle this swap tomorrow and what else should I replace while I'm there??
I hit a median on the whole left side of the car about 3-4 years ago. A buddy of mine replaced the spindle bout 1 month ago. I got a used rack with good tie rods and both a-arms from HP salvage. My car sits 1/2 inch lower on the whole left side (front and back) than the right side.
What else should I look out for and possibly replace?
I hit a median on the whole left side of the car about 3-4 years ago. A buddy of mine replaced the spindle bout 1 month ago. I got a used rack with good tie rods and both a-arms from HP salvage. My car sits 1/2 inch lower on the whole left side (front and back) than the right side.
What else should I look out for and possibly replace?
07-07-2012, 11:19 AM
#7
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Rack Replacement - `99 Trans Am I just swapped mine out yesterday but I don't have any pics ...
While it's fresh in my mind:
1. Loosen front wheel lug nuts. Jack front and put on jack stands. Remove wheels.
2. Center steering wheel and lock it to keep it from turning.
3. Disconnect outer tie rod ends.
4. Disconnect power steering inlet and outlet hoses at rack. Put a pan underneath to catch fluid.
5. Locate and remove nut and bolt holding R side rack from chassis. Bolt pulls out from the top.
6. Loosen nut/bolt a good ways but not all the way on the L side. The bolt will not be able to come out from the top due to the engine. Most people saw the head of the bolt off just above the chassis, rather than jack the engine up to remove it. If you go that route, get some 9" metal cutting saws-all blades and cut the head off. I used 6 blades to cut mine. Be careful and use the right angle otherwise the end of the blade will hit the engine and the saws-all will kick back. I also removed the 2 lines on the rack for more clearance for cutting. Once that's done, just drop the headless bolt and nut down and remove the nut with a wrench and vice grips and get another one from the hardware store.
7. Loosen the steering gear flexible coupling bolt and work the rack out. You may have to do some prying, but she'll come out.
8. Inspect the new rack vs. the old. Remove the old tie rod ends to get the locking nut (unless you already have a couple). Also count the number of turns to get the tie rod ends off. I did this only to get the locking nuts. I counted 18 turns to get both of mine off.
9. Install tie rod locking nuts and tie rod ends on new rack . Might as well put on new tie rod ends while you are there.
10. Make sure that the rack is at the centered position as can be verified putting it up against the old rack. Also make sure the shaft that the flexible steering coupler connects to is positioned as close as possible to the orientation of the old otherwise you will have problems getting it connected.
11. Install the rack and connect the flexible steering coupler to the rack. With the rack centered and the steering wheel centered it should slide right down. If you have a hard time getting it connected, you could either have a friend move the steering wheel slightlly back and forth it should slide on down, otherwise the steering shaft on the rack can be turned with a 5/8" wrench. Once down all the way, tighten that bolt to 35 ft/lbs.
12. Get the rack in position and install the R side bolt from top and L side from the bottom. Torque those to 63 ft/lbs.
13. Replace o-rings and tighten power steering inlet/outlet hoses to the rack.
14. Connect tie rod ends and grease them.
15. Fill power steering pump reservoir with power steering fluid. Perform the flush following the howto on this site.
I believe I have everything. Also it took me 4 hours to do the job and that included the trip to the hardware store for blades and bolt.
While it's fresh in my mind:
1. Loosen front wheel lug nuts. Jack front and put on jack stands. Remove wheels.
2. Center steering wheel and lock it to keep it from turning.
3. Disconnect outer tie rod ends.
4. Disconnect power steering inlet and outlet hoses at rack. Put a pan underneath to catch fluid.
5. Locate and remove nut and bolt holding R side rack from chassis. Bolt pulls out from the top.
6. Loosen nut/bolt a good ways but not all the way on the L side. The bolt will not be able to come out from the top due to the engine. Most people saw the head of the bolt off just above the chassis, rather than jack the engine up to remove it. If you go that route, get some 9" metal cutting saws-all blades and cut the head off. I used 6 blades to cut mine. Be careful and use the right angle otherwise the end of the blade will hit the engine and the saws-all will kick back. I also removed the 2 lines on the rack for more clearance for cutting. Once that's done, just drop the headless bolt and nut down and remove the nut with a wrench and vice grips and get another one from the hardware store.
7. Loosen the steering gear flexible coupling bolt and work the rack out. You may have to do some prying, but she'll come out.
8. Inspect the new rack vs. the old. Remove the old tie rod ends to get the locking nut (unless you already have a couple). Also count the number of turns to get the tie rod ends off. I did this only to get the locking nuts. I counted 18 turns to get both of mine off.
9. Install tie rod locking nuts and tie rod ends on new rack . Might as well put on new tie rod ends while you are there.
10. Make sure that the rack is at the centered position as can be verified putting it up against the old rack. Also make sure the shaft that the flexible steering coupler connects to is positioned as close as possible to the orientation of the old otherwise you will have problems getting it connected.
11. Install the rack and connect the flexible steering coupler to the rack. With the rack centered and the steering wheel centered it should slide right down. If you have a hard time getting it connected, you could either have a friend move the steering wheel slightlly back and forth it should slide on down, otherwise the steering shaft on the rack can be turned with a 5/8" wrench. Once down all the way, tighten that bolt to 35 ft/lbs.
12. Get the rack in position and install the R side bolt from top and L side from the bottom. Torque those to 63 ft/lbs.
13. Replace o-rings and tighten power steering inlet/outlet hoses to the rack.
14. Connect tie rod ends and grease them.
15. Fill power steering pump reservoir with power steering fluid. Perform the flush following the howto on this site.
I believe I have everything. Also it took me 4 hours to do the job and that included the trip to the hardware store for blades and bolt.
Last edited by TA_Freak; 07-07-2012 at 12:19 PM. Reason: said rear and not front
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01-27-2014, 09:39 PM
#12
01-28-2014, 11:28 PM
#14
did you guys put anti seize on the threads of your inner tie rods to make getting the outer tie rod ends off in the future easier?
the reason i ask is i had trouble getting an old outer tie rod end off and had to spray the outer tie rod end with pb blaster and then give it a whack with a hammer to get it off.
the reason i ask is i had trouble getting an old outer tie rod end off and had to spray the outer tie rod end with pb blaster and then give it a whack with a hammer to get it off.
02-07-2014, 01:18 PM
#15
after discovering that I am missing some parts of my steering system, i have some questions.
1. inside the engine bay, starting at the column and ending at the rack itself, what parts make up the steering system? I have:
-the column
-the linkage
-the dust cover (hat) in between the linkage the linkage and the rack
-the rack
2. what is the torque rating on the two steering linkage bolts?
3. are both steering linkage bolts EXACTLY the same? at the moment, mine are not.
Thank you
1. inside the engine bay, starting at the column and ending at the rack itself, what parts make up the steering system? I have:
-the column
-the linkage
-the dust cover (hat) in between the linkage the linkage and the rack
-the rack
2. what is the torque rating on the two steering linkage bolts?
3. are both steering linkage bolts EXACTLY the same? at the moment, mine are not.
Thank you
