chevygirl

iTrader: (69)

When I get my car jacked up and start looking at the LCA bushings on the front of the car what do I look for to see if something is wrong with them?

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Hello, usually if the bushings are bad they will look split or pieces missing from them. If they pass that inspection you need to check to see if the bushings is loose around the sleeve. Thjey are supposed to be hard so if they have softened up they are bad. Hope that helps.

chevygirl

iTrader: (69)

The front lca bushing that is in the backside that is harder to see where it connects and the bolt runs through it, it is only partially seen so how do I check to see if the bushing is loose around the sleeve? Is that the metal part that is actually driven into the lca and you can see it? Can you take your hand and determine if it is loose?

JamRWS6

Try to move the bushing, you shouldn't be able to. Worse comes to worse it is held in by 1 bolt.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Like JAMRWS6 said you shouldn't be able to move it. You might have to take the bolt out and look at it that way.

chevygirl

iTrader: (69)

Is it possible to replace the front bushing without taking the lca off? How about the rear one on the front? I didn't want to affect the alignment myself. It is going to be 101 degrees saturday so I will have to put my toes in an ice cooler while I work. Ha!!

chevygirl

iTrader: (69)

If I take the bolt out and it does move around does that affect the alignment? Thanks guys.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Its possible to do it. Mark the postion of the bolt and washer so when you put it back you can get it back to the same spot. Keep those feet cool. LOL

chevygirl

iTrader: (69)

My lca bushings are not setting where they use to after all 4 alignments were done. I don't know why they are moved so far out but they don't show any signs of moving now. Why would the shops have moved them so far since I was only getting a minor adjustment?

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Can't speak on behalf of other instances, however I can say that when I witnessed some shops who were performing an alignment over a Hunter alignment machine made the mistake of using pry bars instead of using the properly recommended alignment adjustment tool. That specific tool not only makes things quick and accurate, but is also recommended by GM and/or Hunter.

spy2520

iTrader: (3)

i'm sure you would only see that if they didnt have the tool, doing it with prybars is a bitch. For all intents it will give the same results, it just takes forever and the car doesnt like being adjusted like that.

Major_Lee_Slow

iTrader: (1)

I found that when the front lower control arm rear bushing (the caster bushing) is done it's readily evident when one torques down the wheel lug nuts with the wheel off the ground. When applying the torque the wheel will move fore and aft. With brand new Moog Replacement bushings, this does not occur.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Maybe after 5 hours if they know what they're doing, which is where we finally ended up.

KILLER-LS1

iTrader: (18)

if you have some spare time (and extra ice) get an energy suspension control arm bushing set I love my kit i got!

goldmecham

iTrader: (1)

Dont do what this guy said ^^^^^. brand new rubber bushings is the only way to go or if you do go with what this guy said get the rear lower control arm bushing in rubber and use the poly in the upper and front lower.

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

Where can you get a full set of rubber bushings for the front?

goldmecham

iTrader: (1)

moog MOG-K6490(lower set) and MOG-K6689(upper set). you will need 2 of each.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

I've used poly in both my front and rear lower control arms, and it actually harmed performance. After about two months my poly caster bushing failed miserably. The hard poly bushings can bind the caster bushing which harms performance. For control arms, go with the Moogs.

With regards to ANY rubber bushings, those that are older than 5 years should be inspected and replaced where possible.

goldmecham

iTrader: (1)

the same happend with mine. sure it was cheaper for poly but when you have to go back and replace it because it went bad your just out more money. do it right the first time.

Major_Lee_Slow

iTrader: (1)

I have you both beat. I tried a poly caster bushing and it didn't even last one autocross run. It actually was expelled from the car like a drunk girl puk'n on a saturday night.

BTW, Sam Strano carries the Moog Line of bushings and ball joints. That's where i get mine.