jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

To the OP, mitch is one of the most knowledgeable guys here.

I will echo the need for Konis first. That alone may do what you want for stability and confidence. I'll bet you it does.

The alignment is next. Some of our cars will get to 5+ in caster, some will not. It's luck of the draw, that's why it was suggested to go "max." This will affect how your car tracks and how it feels doing it. Follow the specs mitch recommended, they are exactly in line with the standard recommended on this site --- for good reason.

I'd do Strano's sway bars next, though many would tell you springs. I like the car to stay flat but still soak up bumps. If you can do both springs and sways, do both.

You've gotten great advice here, but all you need to do is listen to mitch and you'll be fine.

Ideally, Konis, Strano springs and sway bars, freshen up bushings, alignment. You'll think you have a better than new car. Konis and alignment are MOST important of that list, along with freshening the bushings.

S2K

I know what website i'm on, and I'm not arguing on if you could get those specs or not. Also, please spell Caster right if you're going to tell me about it.

Also, can you explain the bolded part to me. I'm not going to be pretend to be a suspension guru, but I don't see how you wouldn't make some sacrifice(+/-) in camber while changing caster, when it affects camber roll directly.
Sorry, if I come off dickish. I'm learning just like a lot of other people on here.

You can PM me if you like, so we can let this die.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

A triangle is created by the camber mounting point, the caster mounting point and the point where all those measurments are made.

Move either the camber or caster, the measurement will change.

There is a point of diminishing returns, though. Maxing out negative camber, will limit the relative movement of the caster adjustment.

So at -0.5 camber, you might be able to get +6 caster.
If you move camber to -1.0, you might only see +4.5 caster.

Also, the reason more caster adds stability is because the turning radius becomes exponential. Intial input is slower and the movement ramps up as the steering wheel turns further.

And if you move either camber or caster, toe will change.

chevynation

iTrader: (8)

How fast you talkin, bro? The not-so-great aeros of these f-bods ain't helping you either. In addition to suspension/alignment, you should see improvements by making sure the front is lower than the rear, trimming the front air dam (chin spoiler) and maybe even getting a splitter for the nose.

I went from stock to the aforementioned mods (except the splitter), and saw a huge improvement at all speeds, especially north of 140. I'm running Strano springs/bars, Konis, and Mitch's alignment specs, but I left the isolators in the rear to keep it a bit high, and then put the front Konis on the lower perch to drop the nose more. I originally trimmed the air dam bc it would scrape on everything, and some people told me it would hurt aero, but I actually think it helps. It doesn't seem like its in the right location to help aero; it just forces air up to the radiator and creates high pressure under the hood which creates lift and hurts handling. My logic might be off, but my car is rock solid at speed (and doesn't overheat either).

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

It will direct air up and through the radiator and into the engine compartment.

But the LOW pressure zone it creates behind the lower air dam, pulls that air out of the engine bay and under the car. That's the lift you feel.

If you pull the weather strip between the hood and cowl, it will pull air into the engine bay, not release it out. You don;t want to do this because it the packs the engine bay with air and reduces flow across the radiator.

If you louver the hood towards the nose, like a Mecham hood, then the engine bay pressure is released out and a lot of that air doesn;t go under the car.

tuffluck

iTrader: (4)

caster.