Upper Strut Mount
07-26-2009, 10:34 AM
#1
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Upper Strut Mount I am in the process of changing spring. To my surprise the mounts are stuck. What can I do besides buying new ones. I am surprise sice the car only has 35k miles.
07-26-2009, 11:43 AM
#2
You'll probably have to replace them... They are stuck to the shocks right? They'll most likely tear when you finally do separate them from the shock.
Get moogs from advance auto. Keep the trapezoidal piece on top, it is the shock insulator and doesn't come with the mount.
Get moogs from advance auto. Keep the trapezoidal piece on top, it is the shock insulator and doesn't come with the mount.
07-26-2009, 08:16 PM
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The consensus on upper shock mounts is get the GM mounts. The rest of them are crap for the most part.
Are you sure your mount is seized? Spring compressed, nut off, and you still can't get it to budge?
Are you sure your mount is seized? Spring compressed, nut off, and you still can't get it to budge?
07-27-2009, 12:33 PM
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Has nothing to do with them fitting, but the quality. The first time the studs start spinning on the aftermarket stuff you will be pissed. If they worked for you then great, just warning the OP to issues others have found w/ aftermarket mounts.
07-27-2009, 12:48 PM
#6
Spray them down with some liquid wrench around the shock shaft where it come through the mount and let it sit for about an hour, now with the spring compressed and the shaft nut threaded up as far as possible while still fully engaging the threads on the shaft place a piece of flat stock(metal) over the top of the shaft and hit it hard with a heavy hammer. That should break it loose.
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07-27-2009, 01:34 PM
#9
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The Moogs worked for me after Gabriel and Monroe did not.
Use stainless steel nuts on the new install. To get the old ones off, try to wirebrush all the rust you can off then soak the top of the shock + the mount in some Evaporust overnight, then wirebrush it some more, and soak it 'til the next day if it's still rusty. It might help. That saved one of mine.
Use stainless steel nuts on the new install. To get the old ones off, try to wirebrush all the rust you can off then soak the top of the shock + the mount in some Evaporust overnight, then wirebrush it some more, and soak it 'til the next day if it's still rusty. It might help. That saved one of mine.
07-27-2009, 01:49 PM
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07-27-2009, 01:49 PM
#11
Nothing its a very common problem with our cars...you'll need to replace them. They go for 60-70 bucks at the auto stores. It will also probably need to be ordered, most dont have them in stock but you might get lucky..I had to replace one when I did springs a few weeks back.
07-27-2009, 03:53 PM
#13
I guess if you are wrench or reach challenged it would be PITA. but anyone over 5' tall should be able to insert a bolt and thread a nut onto it.
I worked on a road race car this weekend and that's exactly how we did it ... on purpose.
Grade 8 SAE bolts are a lot stronger than the unmarked knurled studs that come with the stockers.
You probably return the Torx head bolt to its original place under the master cylinder, requiring removal of the MC each time instead of swapping the passenger side hex headed bolts.
07-27-2009, 04:27 PM
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Ghetto? How do you figure?
I guess if you are wrench or reach challenged it would be PITA. but anyone over 5' tall should be able to insert a bolt and thread a nut onto it.
I worked on a road race car this weekend and that's exactly how we did it ... on purpose.
Grade 8 SAE bolts are a lot stronger than the unmarked knurled studs that come with the stockers.
You probably return the Torx head bolt to its original place under the master cylinder, requiring removal of the MC each time instead of swapping the passenger side hex headed bolts.
I guess if you are wrench or reach challenged it would be PITA. but anyone over 5' tall should be able to insert a bolt and thread a nut onto it.
I worked on a road race car this weekend and that's exactly how we did it ... on purpose.
Grade 8 SAE bolts are a lot stronger than the unmarked knurled studs that come with the stockers.
You probably return the Torx head bolt to its original place under the master cylinder, requiring removal of the MC each time instead of swapping the passenger side hex headed bolts.
As far as grade 8...not needed.
07-27-2009, 05:00 PM
#15
The moogs came with new nuts and bolts, and were standard bolts too. No more dumb torx under the master cylinder anymore.
07-27-2009, 07:26 PM
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07-27-2009, 07:52 PM
#18
exactly ...
I rubbed mine with a diaper for along while.
Then I started rubbing other cars ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXyhPrzpi4E
I rubbed mine with a diaper for along while.
Then I started rubbing other cars ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXyhPrzpi4E
