cutting spring to lower car???????
Maybe if you don't measure it is hard to keep them the same..hah


J/k'ing guys!

In all seriousness I don't support the cutting spring method for one primary reason: The stock springs are soft, they need as much working length to help keep the car off the jounce bumpers when the vehicle encounters a road event and/or during spirited driving. Second, aftermarket springs are relatively cheap plus you receive the benefit of a higher spring rate.
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But generally this is what aftermarket springs do, too.
So for small incremental drops I don't see the big
difference. You will want better shocks in either case.
That being said, I like the front Hotchkiss springs fine,
they are progressive and start off not too far from
stock rate. Rears, I went there and then back to stock
minus donut.
But generally this is what aftermarket springs do, too.
So for small incremental drops I don't see the big
difference. You will want better shocks in either case.
That being said, I like the front Hotchkiss springs fine,
they are progressive and start off not too far from
stock rate. Rears, I went there and then back to stock
minus donut.
If you take a spring with 5 coils, where each coil measures 1" vertically (5" total height), with a spring rate of 200lbs/in, and put it onto a car where it is supporting 400lbs, the spring will compress 2". This leaves 3" of spring travel for when you hit bumps and turn corners.
If you take the same spring, and cut a coil, you have a spring with the same spring rate, but is only 4" tall. You put 400lbs on it, and you now only have 2" of travel. Your car will be 1" lower, but have no increased resistance to bottoming out.
I'm not taking sides on whether you should or should not do it. Just make an informed decision.
If you take a spring with 5 coils, where each coil measures 1" vertically (5" total height), with a spring rate of 200lbs/in, and put it onto a car where it is supporting 400lbs, the spring will compress 2". This leaves 3" of spring travel for when you hit bumps and turn corners.
If you take the same spring, and cut a coil, you have a spring with the same spring rate, but is only 4" tall. You put 400lbs on it, and you now only have 2" of travel. Your car will be 1" lower, but have no increased resistance to bottoming out.
I'm not taking sides on whether you should or should not do it. Just make an informed decision.
says cutting coils raises rate. Number of (active) coils
is in the denominator of the spring rate calculation.
Basically, coils act "in parallel" for deflection per force.
More coils, more deflection, less rate.
Now, got another question. Pasted below is a pic of a stock rear spring (on the left). If you cut the bottom coil, it won't seat on the axle properly. If you cut the top, it won't seat in the upper pocket properly. So, either way, you've got a spring that's not seating properly. How do you get away with this? The front's are the same, with a smaller diameter bottom and the top where the last coil is not coiled at the same angle as the ones below. How do you get the car handling properly?






