Advice on SFC's? (Chrome Moly Tubular vs. Double Diamond?)
#1
Advice on SFC's? (Chrome Moly Tubular vs. Double Diamond?)
Reading some past discussion's, it looks like the "double diamond" type of subframe connector is the most "stiffening" but obviously heavier as well.
I'm debating getting Spohn's Chrome Moly SFC's, 13 lbs for the set, and according to the guy I talked to at Spohn, 50% stronger than the steel ones.
My question is, will that be good enough? Should I reconsider and go for the beefier double diamonds? I don't want to drop the money (they aren't cheap) if they aren't going to do anything for stiffening up the car... But I'm more than happy to spend the dough if they are going to be strong enough...
I'm debating getting Spohn's Chrome Moly SFC's, 13 lbs for the set, and according to the guy I talked to at Spohn, 50% stronger than the steel ones.
My question is, will that be good enough? Should I reconsider and go for the beefier double diamonds? I don't want to drop the money (they aren't cheap) if they aren't going to do anything for stiffening up the car... But I'm more than happy to spend the dough if they are going to be strong enough...
Last edited by Bad Mojo; 11-20-2003 at 02:30 PM.
#2
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Get the SLP bolt-on SFC, here's a link to the install. http://users3.ev1.net/~cnl1/firehawk/subframe/index.htm
Al
Al
#3
Originally Posted by DARK AGE 53
Get the SLP bolt-on SFC, here's a link to the install. http://users3.ev1.net/~cnl1/firehawk/subframe/index.htm
Al
Al
I've heard good things about the SLP SFC's, but I would probably go weld in - few stories about the bolt holes stretching? Not sure if that's a common ailment or something that's really to rare to worry about?
Any idea how much they weigh? If diamond type are substantially stronger than tubular single rail type (even chrome moly) then I may go that route.
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Originally Posted by Bad Mojo
I've heard good things about the SLP SFC's, but I would probably go weld in - few stories about the bolt holes stretching? Not sure if that's a common ailment or something that's really to rare to worry about
#6
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I've found that Kenny Brown DD's really suck for frame stiffening.Jack up the front corner of the car and the doors won't open.
I ran SLP bolt-ons and they worked good.Then installed headers and had to cut the cross braces.Ended up cutting all cross bracing off and welded the main bar's on(2 point)Car is just as stiff as diamond design.
So,I would suggest going with a 2 point design.Much lighter and just as stiff.I like the BMR tubular 2 points.Nice piece.
I ran SLP bolt-ons and they worked good.Then installed headers and had to cut the cross braces.Ended up cutting all cross bracing off and welded the main bar's on(2 point)Car is just as stiff as diamond design.
So,I would suggest going with a 2 point design.Much lighter and just as stiff.I like the BMR tubular 2 points.Nice piece.
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Listen to good advice, skip the KBDDs.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/114416-removed-kbdd-sfcs-installed-slp-sfcs-info-comparison.html
Check out how KBDDs "reinforce" over the long term.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...hreadid=429066
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/114416-removed-kbdd-sfcs-installed-slp-sfcs-info-comparison.html
Check out how KBDDs "reinforce" over the long term.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...hreadid=429066
#9
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I welded SLP's on my car at 2,000 miles or less (2002 Z) and it is still pretty much rattle free even with my obnoxious spring rates (647 in lb front and 257 in lb rear) plus KA koni's and autocrossing on sticky tires on occasion. I'd recommend SLP's any day. My other favorite is the LG Motorsports kit with the diagonal braces and such. Great setup. I think you'll get more ground clearance from the LG setup, but I won't swear to that.
My thoughts.
My thoughts.