Why Me?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
Why Me? Ok, here's my ordeal. I recently hit the ish out of a curb median going about 45 mph. I'm talking head on, blowing my tires out and destroying the two rims on my drivers side. Now i purchased new wheels and tires, and put them on. I noticed the front driver wheel is way to inset (maybe 1/2" to 3/4") into the wheel wheel compared to the passenger side wheel. I filed a claim and supposedly they fixed it (Bull-ish). I had a chance to stop and see my car and the damn wheel still sits in the same position that it did before i dropped it off. They said it was the driver side A-Arm, and they replaced it. What the hell else could it be. Give me some ideas please. Is there an easy answer?
Thanks in advance, and sorry so lengthy.
Thanks in advance, and sorry so lengthy.
I would replace the following:
rack tie rod end drivers side
lower control arm - this fixes any bushings and ball joints
hub - the bearing will usually have some play once you pound them that hard
depending on the shock replace it - more than likely damaged somehow
upper a arm is questionable - just eye ball it
steering knuckle same thing should be able to eye ball it
get it all installed and get a good alignment.
if it still looks like crap - take it to the body shop and have them test the frame.
I really dont think you have a bent frame, its possible but alot of the impact got absorbed by the items I asked you to replace.
Try not to dwell on it - it will only make it worst. Basically if you get it close to where it looks fine and it drives fine. Leave it alone!
And I hope alcohol wasnt involved, if it was, consider yourself lucky and cut your ****. I only tell you this because some of us have learned the hard way......not me but I've been close. How do you think I know?
rack tie rod end drivers side
lower control arm - this fixes any bushings and ball joints
hub - the bearing will usually have some play once you pound them that hard
depending on the shock replace it - more than likely damaged somehow
upper a arm is questionable - just eye ball it
steering knuckle same thing should be able to eye ball it
get it all installed and get a good alignment.
if it still looks like crap - take it to the body shop and have them test the frame.
I really dont think you have a bent frame, its possible but alot of the impact got absorbed by the items I asked you to replace.
Try not to dwell on it - it will only make it worst. Basically if you get it close to where it looks fine and it drives fine. Leave it alone!
And I hope alcohol wasnt involved, if it was, consider yourself lucky and cut your ****. I only tell you this because some of us have learned the hard way......not me but I've been close. How do you think I know?
Last edited by 2000Z28M6; Aug 10, 2009 at 04:41 PM.
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 381
Likes: 15
From: Oshawa (Home of the 5th-gen)
1) Could be that they have the lower A-arm mounted further in at the bottom (giving you more positive camber than negative, and sucking the wheel deeper into the well).
2) Are your new wheels the EXACT same offset as the ones they replaced? Perhaps they have a deeper backspacing, giving the appearance of being deeper into the wheel wells?
3) The K-member could be bent in/back where the lower A-arms mount. I highly doubt the actual FRAME is bent, but the K-member could have bent.
4) So they replaced the lower A-arms. What about the uppers?
5) "Why me"??? Dude, you slammed your car into a curb!!! I don't think you'll find too much sympathy for that
. Hope you can figure out what's up with your car though.
2) Are your new wheels the EXACT same offset as the ones they replaced? Perhaps they have a deeper backspacing, giving the appearance of being deeper into the wheel wells?
3) The K-member could be bent in/back where the lower A-arms mount. I highly doubt the actual FRAME is bent, but the K-member could have bent.
4) So they replaced the lower A-arms. What about the uppers?
5) "Why me"??? Dude, you slammed your car into a curb!!! I don't think you'll find too much sympathy for that
. Hope you can figure out what's up with your car though. Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
Thanks for the replies so far guys. I stopped by and upon looking i noticed the tire doesnt actually look that bad. The camber is off (leans in at the top) and they told me that even after the allignment thats the best they could get it. They then told me that it is due to my strut being shot to hell. Does that make sense? Could it just be my strut thats causing my camber to be off? I hope it's just that. If not I will start looking into your suggestions. As for the being intoxicated crap, i appreciate your advice but I was on my way to work that friday morning and unfortunately looked down for not even half a second when i hit the damn curb which f'ed up the driver side wheels. I just had a cousin pass away in a car accident this past weekend so believe me I am careful as ever. He was also sober and was 5 mins away from home 
. So i guess just because someone gets in a car accident doesn't mean it's alcohol or speed related. When i said "why me" i meant why cant my damn car just be fixed, back to normal, and life goes on.
. So i guess just because someone gets in a car accident doesn't mean it's alcohol or speed related. When i said "why me" i meant why cant my damn car just be fixed, back to normal, and life goes on. Last edited by quickneSS; Aug 11, 2009 at 09:42 AM. Reason: Almost forgot
I'm almost willing to put money that your hub is shot dude. Why haven't you taken the wheel off, rotor and check for play. If you broke a wheel that's enough impact to **** up the hub bearing which will make the wheel sit funny.
You can goto the wanted section and see if someone cuts you a break, but the hubs aren't cheap because of the stupid wheel sensor, it's basically the whole assembly.
4 bolts and it comes out....you should really start there. If it turns out it's not that you'll have a spare that you will eventually probably need. If not, it's easily re-sell able, RR and AX need these replaced on a regular basis when running slicks.
You can goto the wanted section and see if someone cuts you a break, but the hubs aren't cheap because of the stupid wheel sensor, it's basically the whole assembly.
4 bolts and it comes out....you should really start there. If it turns out it's not that you'll have a spare that you will eventually probably need. If not, it's easily re-sell able, RR and AX need these replaced on a regular basis when running slicks.
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
I'm almost willing to put money that your hub is shot dude. Why haven't you taken the wheel off, rotor and check for play. If you broke a wheel that's enough impact to **** up the hub bearing which will make the wheel sit funny.
You can goto the wanted section and see if someone cuts you a break, but the hubs aren't cheap because of the stupid wheel sensor, it's basically the whole assembly.
4 bolts and it comes out....you should really start there. If it turns out it's not that you'll have a spare that you will eventually probably need. If not, it's easily re-sell able, RR and AX need these replaced on a regular basis when running slicks.
You can goto the wanted section and see if someone cuts you a break, but the hubs aren't cheap because of the stupid wheel sensor, it's basically the whole assembly.
4 bolts and it comes out....you should really start there. If it turns out it's not that you'll have a spare that you will eventually probably need. If not, it's easily re-sell able, RR and AX need these replaced on a regular basis when running slicks.
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Verdad Gallardo http://www.myls1.com/showthread.php?t=449
take a look at that write up....you will have to get to this picture.
Then pull off the rotor, check for play in the hub it's not suppose to have any play or slosh. Spin it and make sure it's nice and firm. If it does have play, it's hosed, just replace it - 4 bolts and it comes off.
take a look at that write up....you will have to get to this picture.
Then pull off the rotor, check for play in the hub it's not suppose to have any play or slosh. Spin it and make sure it's nice and firm. If it does have play, it's hosed, just replace it - 4 bolts and it comes off.
I had the same issue with my car when I bought it. The guy I bought it from hit the curb very similar to what you did. The K-member was bent cause the passenger front wheel to be pushed back. They had to bend the K-member back into position. Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
http://www.myls1.com/showthread.php?t=449
take a look at that write up....you will have to get to this picture.
Then pull off the rotor, check for play in the hub it's not suppose to have any play or slosh. Spin it and make sure it's nice and firm. If it does have play, it's hosed, just replace it - 4 bolts and it comes off.
take a look at that write up....you will have to get to this picture.
Then pull off the rotor, check for play in the hub it's not suppose to have any play or slosh. Spin it and make sure it's nice and firm. If it does have play, it's hosed, just replace it - 4 bolts and it comes off.
The picture with circles is your Front Lower Control Arm, you will easily see the arm when you pull the wheel.
It wont be easy to tell if the ball joint is shot - but compare with the good side and make an assessment. As for the rear bushing, you will visibly see if it's torn or cracked.
It wont be easy to tell if the ball joint is shot - but compare with the good side and make an assessment. As for the rear bushing, you will visibly see if it's torn or cracked.