Front Drivers Wheel Doesn't Spin Freely When Jacked, Options?
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Front Drivers Wheel Doesn't Spin Freely When Jacked, Options?
Hello all,
I am posting because I need to resolve the braking issue mentioned above. It seems that the car has had this issue since I bought it (car had 60k when I bought it, its at 83k now). I am staring to think that this is causing premature wear to suspension components and brake components. I installed hawks HPS pads and drilled/slotted rotors last year, but the car still has original brake hoses and calipers, and slider pins on it (putting my flame suit on now). I plan on putting stainless brake hoses on it asap, flushing the fluid, and greasing the slider pins. Do any of you guys see a need to replace the calipers? Do they typically hang up? I am trying to save $100 and not replace parts on a whim. Would it be safe to assume that the slider pins and/or brake lines with old fluid in them are causing this? Please advise.
I am posting because I need to resolve the braking issue mentioned above. It seems that the car has had this issue since I bought it (car had 60k when I bought it, its at 83k now). I am staring to think that this is causing premature wear to suspension components and brake components. I installed hawks HPS pads and drilled/slotted rotors last year, but the car still has original brake hoses and calipers, and slider pins on it (putting my flame suit on now). I plan on putting stainless brake hoses on it asap, flushing the fluid, and greasing the slider pins. Do any of you guys see a need to replace the calipers? Do they typically hang up? I am trying to save $100 and not replace parts on a whim. Would it be safe to assume that the slider pins and/or brake lines with old fluid in them are causing this? Please advise.
Last edited by Tuffguy610; 08-24-2009 at 11:39 AM. Reason: .
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The brakes generally don't have pull when braking. The wheel contantly pulls to the right when driving without braking, though. I have been to many alignment shops (most recent one was the best in the area, hands down) and they set the alignments within factory specs even after lowering the car and they said my tires were causing the pulling. Also, the calipers on both sides of the vehicle needed to be pushed in with C-Clamps during a pad change, a standard procedure I use when doing brake swaps. I just did a full brake parts swap on my DD (new pads, rotors, calipers, slider pin components, and hoses), and it currently stops WAY better than the Z28, even despite its performance pads and "performance rotors". The pedal feels way more firm in my DD now than in my Z28.
Last edited by Tuffguy610; 08-24-2009 at 01:31 PM. Reason: .
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i know our sliders suck and tend to get siezed up due to rust. If the alignment is good i would go with the brake hanging up. check on the brake dust on your wheels too... thatll show which side is doing more braking
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i bet 5 bucks that the grease in the bearing is shot. re-grease your bearings or at least inspect them (prepare to get dirty). if it's not the brakes then i'll bet thats what it is if your alignment is perfect and it still pulls to one side when riding down the road.
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i bet 5 bucks that the grease in the bearing is shot. re-grease your bearings or at least inspect them (prepare to get dirty). if it's not the brakes then i'll bet thats what it is if your alignment is perfect and it still pulls to one side when riding down the road.
There are no bearings to grease. These vehicles use sealed wheel bearing hub assemblies. Much better than the old school tapered bearings in rotor setup.
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I think he meant the caliper pin grease, not the bearing grease. Based off of everybody's replies, I'm going to try and keep the stock calipers. If I continue to get bad hanging on that wheel, my next step will be to replace the calipers.
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I had the same problem and didnt find it till I replaced the front brakes and put the wheel back on and it wouldnt turn!! Didnt see any problems when installing the brakes either!! But it ended up being the bottom slider pin!! it would cause the brakes to work but drag on the bottom side!! Took some good cleaning then grease and it worked perfectly!!! Good luck!!
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pliers
and you can replace the bearing for about three hundred bucks because i just replaced mine due to the abs sensor malfunctioning, now the truck goes to the opposite side just a tad bit. just pitching ideas here
and you can replace the bearing for about three hundred bucks because i just replaced mine due to the abs sensor malfunctioning, now the truck goes to the opposite side just a tad bit. just pitching ideas here
#13
Just went thru this exercise.. Drive your car for about 10 minutes, make some normal stops, and pull off the road and park. Put your finger on the rotors in the same spot. Your dragging rotors will be hot as hell. Assume this is also the case with the calipers. Your calipers are not retracting. I went thru flushing the fluid, repeatably collapsing the pistons in the caliper with a c clamp, all kinds of crap. They loosened up for about a month. The only thing that will fix it long term is to either replace the calipers (do them as pairs) or rebuild them (again as pairs). Then flush all your brake fluid in your system. Its toast. Dont skimp. When you use your brakes, your life is in your foots hands... really.
BTW, I replaced my 60K calipers, fluid, and pads. Having 'loose' calipers paid off as I recently drove 550 miles on less then 20 gallons. Never did that before.
BTW, I replaced my 60K calipers, fluid, and pads. Having 'loose' calipers paid off as I recently drove 550 miles on less then 20 gallons. Never did that before.