Ideal setup for AutoX?
Ideal setup for AutoX? Finally looking to do some aftermarket suspension to the T/A. My car has never seen the drag strip, don't really care for it. I need a setup for AutoX and highway racing (racing from a roll). Car currently has stock suspension.
It will also be a plus if I can get the car to ride like a Porsche (probably asking to much)
What do you guys recommend?
It will also be a plus if I can get the car to ride like a Porsche (probably asking to much)
What do you guys recommend?
are you worried about classing at all? what kinda tires do you have?
If I had a decent amount of money to do it over my DD/autox setup would be:
-koni shocks
-strano springs
-hollow 35mm front swaybar
-hollow 22mm rear swaybar
-double adjustable phb(I'd probably just go poly/poly again but rod/rod is superior for all out handling)
-double adjustable lca's(poly/rod just to reduce noise, rod/rod for all out again)
-weld in relocation brackets(my opinion, they're not NEEEEDED for handling but definitely helped my launching out a LOT)
then maybe subframe connectors. some people claim they work wonders, other notice nothing but noise. my car doesn't have them so i don't know exactly what difference they'd make.
my current setup(VERY budget oriented):
-hypercoil springs(no longer made, hard to come by)
-bilstein revalves(not HD's, valved properly for lower springs)
-solid 35mm front swaybar
-stock 19mm rear bar(WAY TOO SMALL! in search of a stock 3rd gen 21mm rear bar cheap, yes they fit)
-poly/poly double adjustable phb
-poly/rod lca's
-bolt in relocation brackets
i'm plenty happy with the setup i have. not the absolute best, but i spent well under $1k for it all so i really can't complain.
If I had a decent amount of money to do it over my DD/autox setup would be:
-koni shocks
-strano springs
-hollow 35mm front swaybar
-hollow 22mm rear swaybar
-double adjustable phb(I'd probably just go poly/poly again but rod/rod is superior for all out handling)
-double adjustable lca's(poly/rod just to reduce noise, rod/rod for all out again)
-weld in relocation brackets(my opinion, they're not NEEEEDED for handling but definitely helped my launching out a LOT)
then maybe subframe connectors. some people claim they work wonders, other notice nothing but noise. my car doesn't have them so i don't know exactly what difference they'd make.
my current setup(VERY budget oriented):
-hypercoil springs(no longer made, hard to come by)
-bilstein revalves(not HD's, valved properly for lower springs)
-solid 35mm front swaybar
-stock 19mm rear bar(WAY TOO SMALL! in search of a stock 3rd gen 21mm rear bar cheap, yes they fit)
-poly/poly double adjustable phb
-poly/rod lca's
-bolt in relocation brackets
i'm plenty happy with the setup i have. not the absolute best, but i spent well under $1k for it all so i really can't complain.
Last edited by therealcreeper; Aug 31, 2009 at 01:55 PM.
I only plan on doing suspension once, so what's the best of the best? (Brand names, boxed or tubular, welded or bolted)
I'm not really worried about classing, it's usually just a bunch of friends.
Tires = Yokahoma AVS 275/40/17
I'm not really worried about classing, it's usually just a bunch of friends.
Tires = Yokahoma AVS 275/40/17
Finally looking to do some aftermarket suspension to the T/A. My car has never seen the drag strip, don't really care for it. I need a setup for AutoX and highway racing (racing from a roll). Car currently has stock suspension.
It will also be a plus if I can get the car to ride like a Porsche (probably asking to much)
What do you guys recommend?
It will also be a plus if I can get the car to ride like a Porsche (probably asking to much)
What do you guys recommend?
They key to this setup is going to be Koni SA's, Strano springs, and a good balanced swaybar set. I'd go with the Stranos, but if you want to save a few extra pennies then the heavier UMI set will do the job if you don't mind adding a few extra lbs. This gives your car some suspension travel and a great feeling.. I drove on this combo for over a year as my daily on some subpar road conditions and it was a lot more comfortable than many cars that I've driven in. No other suspension parts (LCAs, phb, sfcs, stb, etc) are going to have a direct effect on how your suspension works
In autox, this will put you in street prepared class ESP, in which the camaro is very competitive. Just note that if you have any other mods, you might want to mention that as some stupid little things bump you right into street modified SM. Good luck competing in SM in a Camaro.. that is very tough
get better tires first. welded everything is better then bolt in. boxed/tubular debates can go on forever. personally chromemoly tubular is just fine. getting aluminum LCA will save several pounds and last just as long.
koni SA/vogtland springs (ham strano rates)
35 hollow/22 rear
upper and/or lower front control arms so you can greatly increase neg. camber
as far as brand, theyre all about the same. look for who gives the best prices with everything, including shipping costs.
unless you get an $800 decoupled torque arm, dont bother with an aftermarket TA. completely worthless for handling.
if you actually want to be competitive in a sactioned autox, r-comp tires are the only way to go in an f-body. night and day differance, regardless of susp. you can only do so much on street tires.
koni SA/vogtland springs (ham strano rates)
35 hollow/22 rear
upper and/or lower front control arms so you can greatly increase neg. camber
as far as brand, theyre all about the same. look for who gives the best prices with everything, including shipping costs.
unless you get an $800 decoupled torque arm, dont bother with an aftermarket TA. completely worthless for handling.
if you actually want to be competitive in a sactioned autox, r-comp tires are the only way to go in an f-body. night and day differance, regardless of susp. you can only do so much on street tires.
The alignment does alot for hair pins or sharp turns....will offer more turning grip. Basically you will minimize alot of the understeer.
FYI, the stock setup with lowering spring only offers -1 camber if your lucky; -1.5 and above do wonders.
If you get close to -1 for the street it's going be fine, but autoxing will keep you wanting more.
You have options....when your ready, research negative camber.
FYI, the stock setup with lowering spring only offers -1 camber if your lucky; -1.5 and above do wonders.
If you get close to -1 for the street it's going be fine, but autoxing will keep you wanting more.
You have options....when your ready, research negative camber.
get better tires first. welded everything is better then bolt in. boxed/tubular debates can go on forever. personally chromemoly tubular is just fine. getting aluminum LCA will save several pounds and last just as long.
koni SA/vogtland springs (ham strano rates)
35 hollow/22 rear
upper and/or lower front control arms so you can greatly increase neg. camber
as far as brand, theyre all about the same. look for who gives the best prices with everything, including shipping costs.
unless you get an $800 decoupled torque arm, dont bother with an aftermarket TA. completely worthless for handling.
if you actually want to be competitive in a sactioned autox, r-comp tires are the only way to go in an f-body. night and day differance, regardless of susp. you can only do so much on street tires.
koni SA/vogtland springs (ham strano rates)
35 hollow/22 rear
upper and/or lower front control arms so you can greatly increase neg. camber
as far as brand, theyre all about the same. look for who gives the best prices with everything, including shipping costs.
unless you get an $800 decoupled torque arm, dont bother with an aftermarket TA. completely worthless for handling.
if you actually want to be competitive in a sactioned autox, r-comp tires are the only way to go in an f-body. night and day differance, regardless of susp. you can only do so much on street tires.
And again, it's all about the tires, especially in Auto-X. Spend a season on Street tires learning your car, then switch up to R-Compounds. You will appreciate the difference more and know how to actually use the difference.
R-compounds are like black crack, once you get on them, you can't get off......
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Hello
I noticed that you are looking into setting the vehicle up for Auto X and I just wanted to leave you know that UMI Performance has a wide variety of suspension parts that might be of a interest to you! Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer!
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...rc31nh71dons20
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
I noticed that you are looking into setting the vehicle up for Auto X and I just wanted to leave you know that UMI Performance has a wide variety of suspension parts that might be of a interest to you! Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer!
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...rc31nh71dons20
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
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Verdad Gallardo I agree tires will make you faster, but I don't see how tires will make the car ride like a Porsche or "sports car with good suspension". Tires will help make the car stick. The stickier the tires, the faster you could probably make your car roll from one side to the other. The right balance of shocks, springs, and sways is what you can do to get the Porsche/BMW/whatever.. a good performance/daily suspension. At least that's how I interpret the goal he is looking for.
You could throw junk tires on the vehicle and make it feel like a Porsche with the right suspension.
You could throw junk tires on the vehicle and make it feel like a Porsche with the right suspension.
As odd as this sounds the reason I can't get too in depth about this subject right now is because I'm trying to pack to leave for Solo (autocrossing) Nationals in between the work on my desk..... If you can hang in there until the 14th, I'd be happy to help you out with your setup.
My parts and setup were developed with an autoxing background which is why they work both on the street and on the track. There are similarities between autox and hard street driving and track driving both.
I'll be back in the shop on the 14th around noon. I'll have a lot of messages, but you can feel free to call then. Please leave a message I miss your call and I'll get back to you ASAP, but it can take a while after I've been gone as long as I will be.
My parts and setup were developed with an autoxing background which is why they work both on the street and on the track. There are similarities between autox and hard street driving and track driving both.
I'll be back in the shop on the 14th around noon. I'll have a lot of messages, but you can feel free to call then. Please leave a message I miss your call and I'll get back to you ASAP, but it can take a while after I've been gone as long as I will be.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
I have a watts link along with a lot of other mods to my suspension.A watts link is bad ***.It makes your rear more predictable.I think he should talk to Sam Strano about his goals and see what he has to say.He is deffinately the man to talk to.
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2000 t/a ws6 with lots of mods
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2000 t/a ws6 with lots of mods
