Rotors...
09-25-2009, 11:21 PM
#21
you can tell you need new calipers when your rears are wearing faster than the fronts.... you need new calipers.. seriously.... if you want to be cheap, re grease the slide pins with brake silicone.. also is your harware clean? did you clean up the rust underneath the hardware? regardless, you need new calipers... otherwise this MIGHT fix your noisey brakes
09-25-2009, 11:36 PM
#22
if you can remove the slide pins, theyre fine. just make sure you use proper brake lube grease. it may come with the pads. if not, just get a can from any parts store. make sure the slide pin doesnt have any rust on it, that its clean and smooth. if there are rust spots, clean it up with sandpaper. grease it heavy, make sure the rubber boots are in good shape. you can also just get a brake hardware kit, which will have new pins, boots, and rattle clips. might as well just do that.
using either an old brake pad and a c-clamp, or a big pair of channel locks, press in the piston. in the rear there is only one. see if you can press it in. if you can, and the rubber boot around it is alright, then the piston is fine. make sure you bleed it properly afterwards.
what metal to metal sound are you hearing. are you sure its from the rear. it may just be an abutment shim touching the rotor.
using either an old brake pad and a c-clamp, or a big pair of channel locks, press in the piston. in the rear there is only one. see if you can press it in. if you can, and the rubber boot around it is alright, then the piston is fine. make sure you bleed it properly afterwards.
what metal to metal sound are you hearing. are you sure its from the rear. it may just be an abutment shim touching the rotor.
when i checked the piston i opened the brake fluid reservoir cap...not sure if that's by the book and i didn't bleed the brakes either...should i've have done that?the metal to metal is coming from the right rear wheel area, and i'm not to sure what an abutment shim is? sorry....thanks
09-26-2009, 07:13 AM
#23
TECH Addict
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SE VA
Posts: 2,255
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you should always bleed the brakes after you do anything with them. it only takes a minute per wheel. the hardest thing is jacking it up and having someone else to pump the pedal. after youre done messing with the brakes, whatever you do, make SURE bleeding them properly is the LAST thing you do.
if you want to stick a small screwdriver in the guide pin hole, clean out some old grease, thats alright. you dont have to slap on a ton of grease on the pin. a nice full coating will be fine. make sure youre using real, actual brake caliper lube, not just regular grease. brake lube is made to withstand higher temps then grease is. some grease backing up to the boot is fine.
if the pins were rough, take some sand paper and clean them up. then grease and install. the abutment shim is a flimsy piece of metal that goes between the pad and the bracket that has the guide pins in it. im fairly sure the rears have them, i know the fronts do.
if you do all this an you still have noise.....not much i can suggest without looking at it. how old are the rear brakes/calipers/rotors. the best and easiest is just get new everything. get a new hardware kit, new rotors and pads if you havent already. the kit will have new pins, boots, and shims. possibly with a little tube of grease. see if you can find a raybestos loaded caliper. that comes with everything assembled....pads included. if not, the parts store brand is usually already. see what they have in stock, and especially if they have any kind of warrenty.
if you want to stick a small screwdriver in the guide pin hole, clean out some old grease, thats alright. you dont have to slap on a ton of grease on the pin. a nice full coating will be fine. make sure youre using real, actual brake caliper lube, not just regular grease. brake lube is made to withstand higher temps then grease is. some grease backing up to the boot is fine.
if the pins were rough, take some sand paper and clean them up. then grease and install. the abutment shim is a flimsy piece of metal that goes between the pad and the bracket that has the guide pins in it. im fairly sure the rears have them, i know the fronts do.
if you do all this an you still have noise.....not much i can suggest without looking at it. how old are the rear brakes/calipers/rotors. the best and easiest is just get new everything. get a new hardware kit, new rotors and pads if you havent already. the kit will have new pins, boots, and shims. possibly with a little tube of grease. see if you can find a raybestos loaded caliper. that comes with everything assembled....pads included. if not, the parts store brand is usually already. see what they have in stock, and especially if they have any kind of warrenty.
09-27-2009, 01:20 AM
#24
you should always bleed the brakes after you do anything with them. it only takes a minute per wheel. the hardest thing is jacking it up and having someone else to pump the pedal. after youre done messing with the brakes, whatever you do, make SURE bleeding them properly is the LAST thing you do.
if you want to stick a small screwdriver in the guide pin hole, clean out some old grease, thats alright. you dont have to slap on a ton of grease on the pin. a nice full coating will be fine. make sure youre using real, actual brake caliper lube, not just regular grease. brake lube is made to withstand higher temps then grease is. some grease backing up to the boot is fine.
if the pins were rough, take some sand paper and clean them up. then grease and install. the abutment shim is a flimsy piece of metal that goes between the pad and the bracket that has the guide pins in it. im fairly sure the rears have them, i know the fronts do.
if you do all this an you still have noise.....not much i can suggest without looking at it. how old are the rear brakes/calipers/rotors. the best and easiest is just get new everything. get a new hardware kit, new rotors and pads if you havent already. the kit will have new pins, boots, and shims. possibly with a little tube of grease. see if you can find a raybestos loaded caliper. that comes with everything assembled....pads included. if not, the parts store brand is usually already. see what they have in stock, and especially if they have any kind of warrenty.
if you want to stick a small screwdriver in the guide pin hole, clean out some old grease, thats alright. you dont have to slap on a ton of grease on the pin. a nice full coating will be fine. make sure youre using real, actual brake caliper lube, not just regular grease. brake lube is made to withstand higher temps then grease is. some grease backing up to the boot is fine.
if the pins were rough, take some sand paper and clean them up. then grease and install. the abutment shim is a flimsy piece of metal that goes between the pad and the bracket that has the guide pins in it. im fairly sure the rears have them, i know the fronts do.
if you do all this an you still have noise.....not much i can suggest without looking at it. how old are the rear brakes/calipers/rotors. the best and easiest is just get new everything. get a new hardware kit, new rotors and pads if you havent already. the kit will have new pins, boots, and shims. possibly with a little tube of grease. see if you can find a raybestos loaded caliper. that comes with everything assembled....pads included. if not, the parts store brand is usually already. see what they have in stock, and especially if they have any kind of warrenty.
06-12-2010, 01:57 PM
#25
I'm bringing this thread back cause my passenger back tire is making noise again and its pretty loud now....i replaced the rotors,brakes, and calipers at 73000 and relube everything... it was quiet for a bout 4-5 days now the dry grinding squeak is back it stops when i apply the brakes. i was wondering if there are bearings somewere with in that area that need regreasing or somethimg. cause i'm sure i've tried almost everything...any advice? thanks
