replaceing motor mounts on a 6 speed any advice?
10-20-2009, 08:45 AM
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replaceing motor mounts on a 6 speed any advice? Ok, got the new prothane poly inserts comming and wanted to know the easiest way to do this..I have jacks jackstands and ramps 
i was thinking doing both from under the car on ramps and use the cherry picker to hold the weight while i do them one at a time
i was thinking doing both from under the car on ramps and use the cherry picker to hold the weight while i do them one at a time 
10-20-2009, 11:05 AM
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DEFINATLY do one at a time.
lift the motor as high as you can on one side....getting them out is the hardest part.
well...back in sucks too.
took me 13hrs to do both, on my back in the driveway. 80% of that was just the manuvering.
if you can remove the exhaust manifolds....you'll be GOLDEN!!!
lift the motor as high as you can on one side....getting them out is the hardest part.
well...back in sucks too.
took me 13hrs to do both, on my back in the driveway. 80% of that was just the manuvering.
if you can remove the exhaust manifolds....you'll be GOLDEN!!!
10-20-2009, 11:33 AM
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look at my recent posts, I did both mounts in a pretty quick time using only the cars spare tire jack to hold the motor up. I also had little to no wiggleing of the motor to line things up
10-21-2009, 07:42 AM
#7
Finished mine Monday night, only did the drivers side. I left my LT's on and followed the factory service manual kinda. I put a bottle jack on top of my transmission jack. I located it on a small flat on the block right where the alternator is mounted. You do not need to remove the alternator or headers and I didn't lift my motor than about 2" as the headers hit the K-Member. Some tips:
1) Make sure you have a gear wrench in 13mm. /15mm preferrable is a flex head.
2) A flex head 3/8 ratchet to break the bolts to the motor loose as the will be kinda frozen after being in Aluminum for so long.
3) A 1/4 and 3/8 flex socket or good universal will be handy. I like to use a small 1/4 air ratchet with flex extensions and universals on stuff after I break it loose. Its small so it fits in a lot more places.
A) Loosen and remove the nut from 18MM center bolt first. It won't come out til later.
b) Remove the 4 pedestal bolts next.
c) Remove the 2 10mm heat shield nuts. The front nut is reachable by putting your head near the front of your front tire and use a 12" or so extension with a universal. This is how the front top nut is reached.
d) Once the heat shield is off, crack the 4 mounting bolts loose. The rear 2 and front lower are all reachable from the rear. Just crack them loose, they will be hard.
e) Jack the motor up a little, then remove the 4 bolts.
f) The mount/pedestal can then be dragged and twisted to the rear and the center bolt wiggles out.
g) Then twist the mount around to free it from the pedestal. The pedestal won't fit out due to the headers.
h) Drill out the rivets with 3/8 drill a drill press rocks for this.
I) I put so super high viscosity silcone grease from J&M on the inside of my clamshell. The bolted right together, this is the type of 100% sillicone they give you for the suspension parts.
J) antisieze the bolts, wiggle it up and put the center bolt in loose first not in both holes only the front hole and through the mount. The making sure of the tab on the new mount is in front of the block web push the bolt the rest of the way through.
K) Start all mount to block bolts and get at least 5 turns. The front lower sucks and the steering joint is in the way if you have short fingers.
L) Now start 1 of the pedestal bolts. Then crane your head up to see how it align front back twisted etc. An inspection mirror is golden here. I started the rear lower as it was the easist. The upper rear next. On mine I needed to actually snug the engine bolts for the top to align horizontally better. But it was still off vertically, it wouldn't come down far enough. After some prybar antics ( I was working off jackstands and by myself) that were to no avail. I had idea, I jacked up the other side about an inch and whoala the bolt lined up. Once those 2 were started the other 2 the front ones started fine.
M) Tighten the mount then the pedestal ( make sure the spacers are seating in there seats and then tighten the center bolt.
N) Re-install heat shield.
I love mine, no more header bang , and I didn't notice any real vibration increase. I wonder if the silicone grease helped. I just did the drivers side for now.
Ed
1) Make sure you have a gear wrench in 13mm. /15mm preferrable is a flex head.
2) A flex head 3/8 ratchet to break the bolts to the motor loose as the will be kinda frozen after being in Aluminum for so long.
3) A 1/4 and 3/8 flex socket or good universal will be handy. I like to use a small 1/4 air ratchet with flex extensions and universals on stuff after I break it loose. Its small so it fits in a lot more places.
A) Loosen and remove the nut from 18MM center bolt first. It won't come out til later.
b) Remove the 4 pedestal bolts next.
c) Remove the 2 10mm heat shield nuts. The front nut is reachable by putting your head near the front of your front tire and use a 12" or so extension with a universal. This is how the front top nut is reached.
d) Once the heat shield is off, crack the 4 mounting bolts loose. The rear 2 and front lower are all reachable from the rear. Just crack them loose, they will be hard.
e) Jack the motor up a little, then remove the 4 bolts.
f) The mount/pedestal can then be dragged and twisted to the rear and the center bolt wiggles out.
g) Then twist the mount around to free it from the pedestal. The pedestal won't fit out due to the headers.
h) Drill out the rivets with 3/8 drill a drill press rocks for this.
I) I put so super high viscosity silcone grease from J&M on the inside of my clamshell. The bolted right together, this is the type of 100% sillicone they give you for the suspension parts.
J) antisieze the bolts, wiggle it up and put the center bolt in loose first not in both holes only the front hole and through the mount. The making sure of the tab on the new mount is in front of the block web push the bolt the rest of the way through.
K) Start all mount to block bolts and get at least 5 turns. The front lower sucks and the steering joint is in the way if you have short fingers.
L) Now start 1 of the pedestal bolts. Then crane your head up to see how it align front back twisted etc. An inspection mirror is golden here. I started the rear lower as it was the easist. The upper rear next. On mine I needed to actually snug the engine bolts for the top to align horizontally better. But it was still off vertically, it wouldn't come down far enough. After some prybar antics ( I was working off jackstands and by myself) that were to no avail. I had idea, I jacked up the other side about an inch and whoala the bolt lined up. Once those 2 were started the other 2 the front ones started fine.
M) Tighten the mount then the pedestal ( make sure the spacers are seating in there seats and then tighten the center bolt.
N) Re-install heat shield.
I love mine, no more header bang , and I didn't notice any real vibration increase. I wonder if the silicone grease helped. I just did the drivers side for now.
Ed
Last edited by BRD-PREY; 10-21-2009 at 07:42 AM. Reason: spelling
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10-21-2009, 08:25 AM
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i dont know about the pacesetters, but when when i did my car with kooks and my friends car with LPP's, the headers really didnt get in the way too much. i just pulled the alternator, starter, and moved the ac outta the way. to me the biggest PITA by faaaaaaaaaar on both cars was gettin that bastard 2nd mount to line up. 
so my advice is get some big'ol pry-bars and good luck 
so my advice is get some big'ol pry-bars and good luck 