How's this for a weekend suspension build? I miss anything?
11-23-2009, 10:42 AM
#1
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How's this for a weekend suspension build? I miss anything? So this car is a weekend warrior only (I have a Grand Wagoneer for daily driving/weather, and a motorcycle). That being said, I'm going for the best handling I can get, while still keeping enough ground clearance to drive around town.
Shocks/Springs/Sways:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=92&ModelID=8
Koni Yellows (4/4), Strano lowering springs, and his hollow sway bars.
Watts Linkage:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=70&ModelID=8
OR
Adjustable Panhard Bar w. Poly Bushings
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=70&ModelID=8
- Is the Watts taht much better than the panhard bar? Car will eventually do Auto-X and some track time .
From what I hear, the SFC aren't required, and the shock tower brace doesn't do much either. (any opinions)?
Then I'm nabbing the brake package from Strano as well -
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=92&ModelID=8
Last-
Bolt in LCA relocation brackets. Question is - are they good enough, or is weld-in the noly way to go?
Any thoughts?
Shocks/Springs/Sways:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=92&ModelID=8
Koni Yellows (4/4), Strano lowering springs, and his hollow sway bars.
Watts Linkage:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=70&ModelID=8
OR
Adjustable Panhard Bar w. Poly Bushings
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=70&ModelID=8
- Is the Watts taht much better than the panhard bar? Car will eventually do Auto-X and some track time .
From what I hear, the SFC aren't required, and the shock tower brace doesn't do much either. (any opinions)?
Then I'm nabbing the brake package from Strano as well -
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=92&ModelID=8
Last-
Bolt in LCA relocation brackets. Question is - are they good enough, or is weld-in the noly way to go?
Any thoughts?
11-23-2009, 11:56 AM
#2
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looks pretty good. That is going to totally transform your car, you are going to love it!
Call Strano and talk to him about the watts link. I know he says he swears by it, it makes a lot more sense for keeping the rear where it is supposed to be, but I don't know a whole lot more about it. I am sure he will be able to fill you in on the details.
Call Strano and talk to him about the watts link. I know he says he swears by it, it makes a lot more sense for keeping the rear where it is supposed to be, but I don't know a whole lot more about it. I am sure he will be able to fill you in on the details.
11-23-2009, 02:11 PM
#3
Sounds like a good setup! It's pretty much the same as mine.
Strano Springs
Koni 4/4s
Strano Sways
Adjustable PHB
UMI 3-Point SFC
LCA Relocation Brackets
I'm going to go with a Watts Link once I get a S60. I just didn't want to wait that long to put my suspension on so I just got an adjustable PHB. I remember seeing a guy driving through Chico with a watts link on his car. We had a quick conversation about it while we drove through town. He said that he really liked the Watts link and that it made a world of difference for him. SFC and a shock tower brace aren't required. The topic of if SFCs make a difference is debatable. Whereas, probably, 95% of people say that a shock tower brace does nothing but add weight. I went with the UMI 3-Point SFCs because I figured that I should just go for the best. Plus, I like how my torque arm setup will be tied into the SFCs. I probably won't go with a shock tower brace because they more than likely don't work, and, I don't think it would fit over a Beck intake manifold. Bolt in Relocation brackets are fine.
Strano Springs
Koni 4/4s
Strano Sways
Adjustable PHB
UMI 3-Point SFC
LCA Relocation Brackets
I'm going to go with a Watts Link once I get a S60. I just didn't want to wait that long to put my suspension on so I just got an adjustable PHB. I remember seeing a guy driving through Chico with a watts link on his car. We had a quick conversation about it while we drove through town. He said that he really liked the Watts link and that it made a world of difference for him. SFC and a shock tower brace aren't required. The topic of if SFCs make a difference is debatable. Whereas, probably, 95% of people say that a shock tower brace does nothing but add weight. I went with the UMI 3-Point SFCs because I figured that I should just go for the best. Plus, I like how my torque arm setup will be tied into the SFCs. I probably won't go with a shock tower brace because they more than likely don't work, and, I don't think it would fit over a Beck intake manifold. Bolt in Relocation brackets are fine.
11-23-2009, 03:23 PM
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ok, so if the bolt in LCA relocators are fine, that makes life a LOT easier.
On the watts - I'm eventually going with a built 9" rear - I'm thinking I'd have to change the watts linkage when I do that, wouldn't I? So I should get the PHB for now, then pick up the WL once I get the built rear?
On the watts - I'm eventually going with a built 9" rear - I'm thinking I'd have to change the watts linkage when I do that, wouldn't I? So I should get the PHB for now, then pick up the WL once I get the built rear?
11-23-2009, 05:25 PM
#7
Well, MidWest fabricates 9" housings which are known as fabbed 9s. A regular 9" is just a stock housing. I don't think that Sam's watts link will work with a fabbed 9". It will, however, fit a regular 9" housing. A fabbed 9" is more expensive but is lighter than the regular 9".
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11-23-2009, 05:43 PM
#8
So this car is a weekend warrior only (I have a Grand Wagoneer for daily driving/weather, and a motorcycle). That being said, I'm going for the best handling I can get, while still keeping enough ground clearance to drive around town.
Shocks/Springs/Sways:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=92&ModelID=8
Koni Yellows (4/4), Strano lowering springs, and his hollow sway bars.
Watts Linkage:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=70&ModelID=8
OR
Adjustable Panhard Bar w. Poly Bushings
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=70&ModelID=8
- Is the Watts taht much better than the panhard bar? Car will eventually do Auto-X and some track time .
From what I hear, the SFC aren't required, and the shock tower brace doesn't do much either. (any opinions)?
Then I'm nabbing the brake package from Strano as well -
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=92&ModelID=8
Last-
Bolt in LCA relocation brackets. Question is - are they good enough, or is weld-in the noly way to go?
Any thoughts?
Shocks/Springs/Sways:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=92&ModelID=8
Koni Yellows (4/4), Strano lowering springs, and his hollow sway bars.
Watts Linkage:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=70&ModelID=8
OR
Adjustable Panhard Bar w. Poly Bushings
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=70&ModelID=8
- Is the Watts taht much better than the panhard bar? Car will eventually do Auto-X and some track time .
From what I hear, the SFC aren't required, and the shock tower brace doesn't do much either. (any opinions)?
Then I'm nabbing the brake package from Strano as well -
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=92&ModelID=8
Last-
Bolt in LCA relocation brackets. Question is - are they good enough, or is weld-in the noly way to go?
Any thoughts?
If you want the "best handling" you can get, then you'll want a Watts link over a PHB. In fact once I put one on my Camaro, I went and put one on my Mustang. It's not that you can't have a fast car with a PHB, you can... but a Watts makes things more composed, more stable when running the car hard. And frankly it just tracks better and stays a lot more planted, even in normal driving. In fact it's not a track vs. street thing, it's most helpful when the roads aren't glass smooth regardless of whether that's on the street or autocrossing or on a track. The best PHB is still subject to the inherent geometry changes that come from the fact one end is bolted the axle, the other to the body....
LCA brackets: Might want 'em, I don't run them (and have no need to run them). But if you want them bolt-ins do much better on this car than some others because, at least with UMI's that I sell, they also mount under the shock to keep from rocking and moving.
SFC's, also not required. But if I had to say that you want something over another, I'd go SFC's over LCA brackets. STB's... much like SFC's, the older the car, the harder it's been run, the more flexible it gets (like anything metal). I have a couple of CSP kits (chassis stiffening packages) that have both SFC's and STB's together for a bit of a discount. You can always add these things at your pleasure, no need to do everything all at once, and your car might not need much help on the chassis side. Mine didn't until it was wrapped around a pole (not by me).
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Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
11-23-2009, 06:40 PM
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Well, MidWest fabricates 9" housings which are known as fabbed 9s. A regular 9" is just a stock housing. I don't think that Sam's watts link will work with a fabbed 9". It will, however, fit a regular 9" housing. A fabbed 9" is more expensive but is lighter than the regular 9".
11-23-2009, 06:49 PM
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Only a few.
If you want the "best handling" you can get, then you'll want a Watts link over a PHB. In fact once I put one on my Camaro, I went and put one on my Mustang. It's not that you can't have a fast car with a PHB, you can... but a Watts makes things more composed, more stable when running the car hard. And frankly it just tracks better and stays a lot more planted, even in normal driving. In fact it's not a track vs. street thing, it's most helpful when the roads aren't glass smooth regardless of whether that's on the street or autocrossing or on a track. The best PHB is still subject to the inherent geometry changes that come from the fact one end is bolted the axle, the other to the body....
LCA brackets: Might want 'em, I don't run them (and have no need to run them). But if you want them bolt-ins do much better on this car than some others because, at least with UMI's that I sell, they also mount under the shock to keep from rocking and moving.
SFC's, also not required. But if I had to say that you want something over another, I'd go SFC's over LCA brackets. STB's... much like SFC's, the older the car, the harder it's been run, the more flexible it gets (like anything metal). I have a couple of CSP kits (chassis stiffening packages) that have both SFC's and STB's together for a bit of a discount. You can always add these things at your pleasure, no need to do everything all at once, and your car might not need much help on the chassis side. Mine didn't until it was wrapped around a pole (not by me).
If you want the "best handling" you can get, then you'll want a Watts link over a PHB. In fact once I put one on my Camaro, I went and put one on my Mustang. It's not that you can't have a fast car with a PHB, you can... but a Watts makes things more composed, more stable when running the car hard. And frankly it just tracks better and stays a lot more planted, even in normal driving. In fact it's not a track vs. street thing, it's most helpful when the roads aren't glass smooth regardless of whether that's on the street or autocrossing or on a track. The best PHB is still subject to the inherent geometry changes that come from the fact one end is bolted the axle, the other to the body....
LCA brackets: Might want 'em, I don't run them (and have no need to run them). But if you want them bolt-ins do much better on this car than some others because, at least with UMI's that I sell, they also mount under the shock to keep from rocking and moving.
SFC's, also not required. But if I had to say that you want something over another, I'd go SFC's over LCA brackets. STB's... much like SFC's, the older the car, the harder it's been run, the more flexible it gets (like anything metal). I have a couple of CSP kits (chassis stiffening packages) that have both SFC's and STB's together for a bit of a discount. You can always add these things at your pleasure, no need to do everything all at once, and your car might not need much help on the chassis side. Mine didn't until it was wrapped around a pole (not by me).
I'm willing to do as much as it takes to get this car handling the way I want - I miss the handling my old SVT Foci had, and while the 'Bird will always be heavier and a lot more powerful, I think I can get pretty close.
Things may come in pieces, but anything that helps I'll add. I've looked at your CSP packages, and I've been considering a couple of them. The shocks/springs/bars seem like the place to start though, plus the Watts so that the axle is centered.
11-23-2009, 06:51 PM
#11
I think that says it all... and that is where I'd start. You can add things as you wish, or find a need to, but you have to get the basics down first.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
12-02-2009, 09:27 PM
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I would get the Bolt-in relocation brackets, i have the weld ins and the person that did the welding on in could not weld for **** so the rear now looks sort of ghetto. Bolt ins are only a few dollars more but i say they are worth the money...
