Brakes/What Else?
Well, already got the speed bleeders from ws6store, gonna install them and see how well they do. Then atleast, I will have a personal opinion instead of 'heard' if you know what I mean. Lots of 'heard' on this board. I figure for $30, I'll try them out.
Though I have to admit, once seeing them in the packaging, they do see rather cheap, especially the spring.
But I'll give them a go.
Though I have to admit, once seeing them in the packaging, they do see rather cheap, especially the spring.
But I'll give them a go.
In any case, it can't hurt to try. I'm assuming that if you keep bleeding and bubbles keep coming out, then you'll probably have an issue.
As long as you don't have the brake engaged when/if removing the rear rotors. I was really stupid when I took mine off and left the brake on during the whole process of removing the rotors.
a motive bleeder is WAY better then any speed-bleed screws. plus you can use it on any newer GM vehicle, and can more tubes/fittings to do any other car ever made.
get high-temp brake grease/lube from a parts store, and lube each slide pin well.
every lowes or home depot will have the tubing. less then a dollar a foot, also sold by the roll of 2-3 ft or so, for a few dollars. using DOT4 is fine. make sure it says "compatible with all DOT3 fluids."
if you do have someone pump the pedal, you do know you dont actually 'pump' while the screw is open, right? only floored and kept down while the screw is open, then closed, then off the pedal.
get high-temp brake grease/lube from a parts store, and lube each slide pin well.
every lowes or home depot will have the tubing. less then a dollar a foot, also sold by the roll of 2-3 ft or so, for a few dollars. using DOT4 is fine. make sure it says "compatible with all DOT3 fluids."
if you do have someone pump the pedal, you do know you dont actually 'pump' while the screw is open, right? only floored and kept down while the screw is open, then closed, then off the pedal.
Thanks for the post!
I hear ya on the "heard" it thing. I "heard" it from a few good sources though. I tend to listen more to certain guys on here and frrax and pretty much almost drown out what a lot of other avg Joe's say
In any case, it can't hurt to try. I'm assuming that if you keep bleeding and bubbles keep coming out, then you'll probably have an issue.
In any case, it can't hurt to try. I'm assuming that if you keep bleeding and bubbles keep coming out, then you'll probably have an issue.
Thanks a lot everyone for the posts... Seriously. I posted a question on the GSXR forum, and got ridiculed. The way I look at it, these forums are enthusiast based, and the enthusiast definition can vary tremendously, but that is why we have so many sub categories.
Got the front pads and rotors on yesterday. Probably would have gotten the rear done, but we couldn't get the rear end jacked up. Just not enough room to get the jack under the car. Guess I should have bought some ramps while at autozone too, but I had already racked up $100 on everything else there that I needed. LMAO
The only problem I ran into, was once we got the passenger front all re-assembled, the rotor wasn't spinning as freely as it was on the driver-side. So I'm assuming there was a little pressure already on the pads? When I backed the car out of the garage, and pressed the brake, got a popping/clunk sound I guess you'd say. Think everything is ok?
I haven't gotten a chance to take it out on the rode yet. Will in a bit when I go to fill her up and get a haircut. I watched some video of the 'bed-in' process on here. But is this really necessary for me? Should I PM Brakemotive and see what they recommend for a break-in process?
Bleeding the brakes seemed to go fine. I didn't see any bubbles or anything, and didn't have to use to much new fluid. No ABS or Brake lights of any kind when starting the vehicle, so think I'm safe there.
Thanks again for all the input.
The only problem I ran into, was once we got the passenger front all re-assembled, the rotor wasn't spinning as freely as it was on the driver-side. So I'm assuming there was a little pressure already on the pads? When I backed the car out of the garage, and pressed the brake, got a popping/clunk sound I guess you'd say. Think everything is ok?
I haven't gotten a chance to take it out on the rode yet. Will in a bit when I go to fill her up and get a haircut. I watched some video of the 'bed-in' process on here. But is this really necessary for me? Should I PM Brakemotive and see what they recommend for a break-in process?
Bleeding the brakes seemed to go fine. I didn't see any bubbles or anything, and didn't have to use to much new fluid. No ABS or Brake lights of any kind when starting the vehicle, so think I'm safe there.
Thanks again for all the input.
Yea, drove it this morning and it was soft at first, and felt quite firm by arriving to the park and ride after the 13mile journey.
New question, I plan on picking up some ramps this weekend so I can install the rears. I will have to bleed all 4 brakes once complete correct? I plan on bleeding all the 'old' fluid out if this is the case.
New question, I plan on picking up some ramps this weekend so I can install the rears. I will have to bleed all 4 brakes once complete correct? I plan on bleeding all the 'old' fluid out if this is the case.
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Verdad Gallardo Next question, I am hoping to get the rotors and pads on this weekend for the rear. Should I wait to do the bed-in process when I get the rears put on? Or is this process mainly for the fronts anyway? Otherwise I am gonna do it before I put the rears on.
probably just worry about the fronts. they do around 90% of the braking. wouldnt hurt to bed in the rears either, but unless you have race compound pads, just easy driving for a while is good enough.
spend the 60 Bucks on a motive power bleeder, do all four corners at once and flush all the old fluid out if it doesn't look clear or close to clear. The power bleeder pushes the fluid out without having to depress your pedal, hook the bleeder up after you change all your pads and rotors pressurize it with the hand pump, open the furthest rear bleeder valve until the fluid is clean then move the the next rear and then the front you will be happier and have less problems if you do it all at once. Do it right the first time and never look back.
spend the 60 Bucks on a motive power bleeder, do all four corners at once and flush all the old fluid out if it doesn't look clear or close to clear. The power bleeder pushes the fluid out without having to depress your pedal, hook the bleeder up after you change all your pads and rotors pressurize it with the hand pump, open the furthest rear bleeder valve until the fluid is clean then move the the next rear and then the front you will be happier and have less problems if you do it all at once. Do it right the first time and never look back.
Is this the one you are talking about? Also, since I've already done the front, and probably will not get the rears done today
I'd assume it would still be safe to do all four corners once I get the rears on, and get 100% new fluid in the system. 
http://store.motiveproducts.com/shar...ount2=15082955
get that one. you can buy extra adapters if you want to do other cars. do NOT get the billet aluminum version. it will chew up your reservoir. motive is also a very good company to deal with. when i got mine, one of the fittings leaked. i could have fixed it quickly by cutting it off and using a regular hose clamp. i called motive, they sent me out a brand new one and paid for shipping of the old adapter back. got it inside of 2 days.
get that one. you can buy extra adapters if you want to do other cars. do NOT get the billet aluminum version. it will chew up your reservoir. motive is also a very good company to deal with. when i got mine, one of the fittings leaked. i could have fixed it quickly by cutting it off and using a regular hose clamp. i called motive, they sent me out a brand new one and paid for shipping of the old adapter back. got it inside of 2 days.
I FINALLY put my rear brakes on saturday, but had a question, as I didn't catch this early enough... Well, once I was practically done,I noticed each side would have a brake pad with a little clip/hook on the back of it. I being the dumb *** I sometimes am, didn't catch this during removal. Does it matter what side of the rotor these goes on? Back side or front side?
I've heard you need to use something to lift the valves in the ABS module in order to change 100% of the fluid. Is this true? And how big of a difference will this make between just manually bleeding it?
Sorry OP
Sorry OP
or, an easier way is it drive in the rain, hit the brakes and let the ABS go off a few times. then do a full flush.
