z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I hear ya on the "heard" it thing. I "heard" it from a few good sources though. I tend to listen more to certain guys on here and frrax and pretty much almost drown out what a lot of other avg Joe's say

In any case, it can't hurt to try. I'm assuming that if you keep bleeding and bubbles keep coming out, then you'll probably have an issue.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

As long as you don't have the brake engaged when/if removing the rear rotors. I was really stupid when I took mine off and left the brake on during the whole process of removing the rotors.

TurdsOfMayhem

iTrader: (4)

Sounds good, assuming I'll see a burnt up layer or something to let me know what to put the grease on. hehe

I am feeling more and more like using my stock bleeders. I will get some tubing from Home Depot probably since it is really close to me. Yeah, I assumed I'll have him push pedal down and hold it, until the fluid slows done good, close bleeder, release brake pedal, wait a few moments, re-open bleeder, hold brake down again, wash rinse repeat, all while making sure the MC is always full enough not to run out.

Thanks for the post!

Whats frrax? I unfortunately forget to read the majority of the names, just read thru the posts w/o looking at names. LOL I may or may not try the bleeders... Kind of want to atleast once to get some value out of them for the money I spent. But then again, don't want to have to take it to Midas or a dealer to fix it if air gets in the system. hehe

Hehe, glad you mentioned this, especially since it is an M6, I am always in the habit of setting the parking break.

Thanks a lot everyone for the posts... Seriously. I posted a question on the GSXR forum, and got ridiculed. The way I look at it, these forums are enthusiast based, and the enthusiast definition can vary tremendously, but that is why we have so many sub categories.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

frrax.com. Fbody Road Race AutoX forum.

make sure you only crack the bleeder while the pedal is under pressure. dont open, then hit the pedal. press first, open, close, let off pedal.

TurdsOfMayhem

iTrader: (4)

Got the front pads and rotors on yesterday. Probably would have gotten the rear done, but we couldn't get the rear end jacked up. Just not enough room to get the jack under the car. Guess I should have bought some ramps while at autozone too, but I had already racked up $100 on everything else there that I needed. LMAO

The only problem I ran into, was once we got the passenger front all re-assembled, the rotor wasn't spinning as freely as it was on the driver-side. So I'm assuming there was a little pressure already on the pads? When I backed the car out of the garage, and pressed the brake, got a popping/clunk sound I guess you'd say. Think everything is ok?

I haven't gotten a chance to take it out on the rode yet. Will in a bit when I go to fill her up and get a haircut. I watched some video of the 'bed-in' process on here. But is this really necessary for me? Should I PM Brakemotive and see what they recommend for a break-in process?

Bleeding the brakes seemed to go fine. I didn't see any bubbles or anything, and didn't have to use to much new fluid. No ABS or Brake lights of any kind when starting the vehicle, so think I'm safe there.

Thanks again for all the input.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

If you get a good, complete, clean flush and bleed...you should notice a drastically firmer pedal.

TurdsOfMayhem

iTrader: (4)

Yea, drove it this morning and it was soft at first, and felt quite firm by arriving to the park and ride after the 13mile journey.

New question, I plan on picking up some ramps this weekend so I can install the rears. I will have to bleed all 4 brakes once complete correct? I plan on bleeding all the 'old' fluid out if this is the case.

need4fun2469

I always break in (bed-in) my brakes when I get done changing my pads, pads and rotors.

TurdsOfMayhem

iTrader: (4)

Next question, I am hoping to get the rotors and pads on this weekend for the rear. Should I wait to do the bed-in process when I get the rears put on? Or is this process mainly for the fronts anyway? Otherwise I am gonna do it before I put the rears on.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

probably just worry about the fronts. they do around 90% of the braking. wouldnt hurt to bed in the rears either, but unless you have race compound pads, just easy driving for a while is good enough.

mook99ta

iTrader: (3)

spend the 60 Bucks on a motive power bleeder, do all four corners at once and flush all the old fluid out if it doesn't look clear or close to clear. The power bleeder pushes the fluid out without having to depress your pedal, hook the bleeder up after you change all your pads and rotors pressurize it with the hand pump, open the furthest rear bleeder valve until the fluid is clean then move the the next rear and then the front you will be happier and have less problems if you do it all at once. Do it right the first time and never look back.

TurdsOfMayhem

iTrader: (4)

http://store.motiveproducts.com/shar...unt2=459357857

Is this the one you are talking about? Also, since I've already done the front, and probably will not get the rears done today I'd assume it would still be safe to do all four corners once I get the rears on, and get 100% new fluid in the system.

71novaguy

iTrader: (2)

i do that cheap 1 man bleeder kit from the parts store. No issues yet with it.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

http://store.motiveproducts.com/shar...ount2=15082955

get that one. you can buy extra adapters if you want to do other cars. do NOT get the billet aluminum version. it will chew up your reservoir. motive is also a very good company to deal with. when i got mine, one of the fittings leaked. i could have fixed it quickly by cutting it off and using a regular hose clamp. i called motive, they sent me out a brand new one and paid for shipping of the old adapter back. got it inside of 2 days.

TurdsOfMayhem

iTrader: (4)

I FINALLY put my rear brakes on saturday, but had a question, as I didn't catch this early enough... Well, once I was practically done,I noticed each side would have a brake pad with a little clip/hook on the back of it. I being the dumb *** I sometimes am, didn't catch this during removal. Does it matter what side of the rotor these goes on? Back side or front side?

TurdsOfMayhem

iTrader: (4)

BUMP so I know if I need to switch my pads around! LOL

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

I've heard you need to use something to lift the valves in the ABS module in order to change 100% of the fluid. Is this true? And how big of a difference will this make between just manually bleeding it?

Sorry OP

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

its probably just the sensor that squeals when your pads are low. doesnt matter where it is

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

you need either a scan tool or cycle the ABS while youre bleeding.

or, an easier way is it drive in the rain, hit the brakes and let the ABS go off a few times. then do a full flush.

SteelCityYaga

Please explain further.

Thanks in advance!