alignments after lowering?
alignments after lowering? I am currently researching lowering my 00 SS.
I have decided to go with Strano Springs and Koni 4/4s.
During my research, I have run across a couple articles that mention once a car is lowered, the geometry of the suspension changes and additional parts are needed to 'properly' align the car. I believe in both cases an adj. panhard bar was the solution.
Anyone run across this after lowering the car?
I have decided to go with Strano Springs and Koni 4/4s.
During my research, I have run across a couple articles that mention once a car is lowered, the geometry of the suspension changes and additional parts are needed to 'properly' align the car. I believe in both cases an adj. panhard bar was the solution.
Anyone run across this after lowering the car?
Are you asking about the front end? Some people can get the front back to factory specs. I got some off set bushings from Strano to help with Alignment. Some people elongate the holes for more adjustment. And lowering the vehicle does make the Factory sway bars work harder. It is recomended to upgrade to a slightly bigger bar front and rear. But it all depends on driving style. With the SA Konis you may be able to balance the car to your style with small adjustments.
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you won't need them due to lowering, but they are a good upgrade. i would recommend lca relocation brackets though, to correct the angle after lowering.
my relocation brackets actually pushed my rear back a few inches, so i used the adjustable lca's to correct that. others have had the same problem as well. apparently it's an installation error of the brackets which causes it, but shortening the lca seemed easier.
my relocation brackets actually pushed my rear back a few inches, so i used the adjustable lca's to correct that. others have had the same problem as well. apparently it's an installation error of the brackets which causes it, but shortening the lca seemed easier.
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TECH Resident
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 827
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From: Dallas, TX
Your issues will be in the front. Getting back to a stock caster/camber setting will be work and not likely uneless you can find someone who knows exactly what they are doing...even at that it still may not be possible to get back to stock specs.
I only say this meaning if you are concerned w/ tire wear. If you aren't, then dial in a degree of negative camber and have fun w/ how the car handles. Your fronts will get eaten up though.
I only say this meaning if you are concerned w/ tire wear. If you aren't, then dial in a degree of negative camber and have fun w/ how the car handles. Your fronts will get eaten up though.
with negative camber, the inside of the tire will wear faster. with aggressive street driving and some autox, the outside edges of mine get pretty chewed up too so it ends up balancing out for me.
ask the person who aligns up the front of the car if the rear is off.... everyone goes on about adjustable panhard bar but only like 2% of everyone who lowered there car runs them......when i lowered the 87 iroc i ran springs and the rear was in perfect alignment with the stock bar still.
get springs new shocks and a 4 wheel alignment.
get springs new shocks and a 4 wheel alignment.
To the OP....I'm running the same setup up as yourself and my rear did need a slight adjustment of the panhard bar to get centered. It's very simple to adjust and can be done in your driveway.
TECH Resident
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 827
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
It is kind of like the difference between a good paint job and taking it to Maco. Maco is just going to tape it off and spray the car and it will look like crap w/ overspray everywhere and an obvious lack of attention to detail. That versus taking it to a shop that knows what they're doing and properly removes panels/moldings/door handles etc. to paint them and you end up with a product that looks right.
My 3 cents.