mondols1

iTrader: (2)

first of all i must say that i have enjoyed reading your responces whether technical or more common sense relted to questions from forum members. i'm at a cross road of either modifying my suspension or moving over to a complete different platform. my 2002 z28 has plenty of horsepower (north of 440 rwhp na) but its on stock suspension. what i have decided that i want to do is run this car in open road races (bborr). i dont have any interest going in w/a stock suspension regardless of my speed being limited. so, from a suspension stand point what would be your recommendation on suspension mods that would take me a few years into the future w/on going tweaking of course.

now, on a complete different subject,

after searching I cant seem to find what your current set up is on your f-body, this would be great to know! also, you need to toot your own horn a little more, put a bio up on your website, with a list your accomplishments, add pics of your car in action, the set up, upcomming competitions, outcomes, tweaks, setup etc... thanks

Ironhead

READ THIS

mondols1

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the link

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Well, ok.... I'll start with the me and the car, get the rest in a bit. Note for those crabby folks who will accuse me of blowing my own horn, I was asked and am responding to a question. If you don't care or don't want to know, close the thread now please.

I have a total of 13 SCCA National Championships to date. 6 Solo National titles, 6 ProSolo Class Series Championships, and last year I won the ProSolo Series Overall. I've been a contracted driver for a major tire company. I'm slated to do some tire testing this year for another. I teach people to autocross, and in fact we get paid better to do that job than instructors at famous road-racing schools. I'm always testing and trying stuff out, in fact despite working on 4 National Championships in a row, and 3 in the same car--we are set to test a new set of shocks in about a month to see if we can't make the car better.

My Camaro. I haven't been running it Nationally the last few years, but I still own it. There have been changes to it since that GMHTP article that Ironhead linked. Most notably a change from the PHB to a Fays2 Watts Linkage-- beyond that the car hasn't changed much. The last two year I competed in it Nationally, it won Championships contested. Since I've mostly been street driving it. I plan on running more track days this year, but will still autox it some for fun, and I do street drive it--and I always will. In fact I could have pulled the radio and A/C, but refuse to because it is a street car, just one capable of winning and embarrassing other "faster" cars.

I've got Koni's, springs, bars, a Torque Arm, Watts link, better differential (likely to change to another brand this year that I feel works better over the long term). I run Hawk pads, stainless lines, ATE fluid, Redline oil. The battery is relocated to the right rear. The car has StainlessWorks long tubes with a catted Y-pipe, an SLP exhaust that was a loudmouth be recently converted to a PowerFlo setup with the rear mufflers (because it's a street car and was just too obnoxious before). I've got a Sparco Evo seat in the car. Aluminum flywheel and aftermarket clutch, Fluidampr underdrive/aluminum damper, custom tuning that a friend of mine did on a Mustang dyno. Ahhh.... An SLP lid and high flow bellows, MSD wires, NGK plugs.... I think that about covers it. Except for the wheels, I have two sets of Forged 17x11's, one CCW, one Forgeline RS's as well as a set of Camaro SS wheels for my Hoosier Rains. I still run the stock 16x8's on the street.

Now on to what to do for you.... I don't know exactly because individual needs are just that, individual. The shocks suck on the cars stock, so I generally start there, but again that would depend on the results of a discussion between you and I. Might be that what you would most like to change has less to do with shocks than say, swaybars, or maybe something else entirely. There is no script I can just follow exactly, but I'm happy to help you work out a plan.... The only catch is you have to help me, and be honest with me about what you think about how the car drives and what you'd most like to alter about it's behavior (even in general, not necessarily super specifically).

mondols1

iTrader: (2)

your bio is very impressive to say the least thanks for the update on what your up to.

my car:

like i said my suspension is stock, not a single change. car has 95k miles and is super straight. the best way to describe what i want that i dont have is a real "planted" feeling at higher speeds. the rear of my car feels like it tends to lean a liittle before the tires are any where close to breaking loose, and thats with the nitto drag radials (315) which i know are not ideal for cornering but they do seem fairly sticky none the less, (nitto 275 555r up front). my only gauge of comparrison is being behind the wheel of a 2006 zo6and a 1984 porsche 930 ruf. both of those cars i got to drive at fairly high speeds and the rears just feel "planted", especialy the porsche, it just felt like the rear of the car was practicaly under your seat and couldnt come out from under you. thats the feeling i want! just not sure if thats reasonable with a 4th gen or at least not w/out spending so much that you would be better off going to a different car all together. as a matter of fact i have been pricing 930s and have been surprised by what 25k to 30k will buy and deals on z06s are gettig better all the time. as far as my interest goes i think having a car that can be driven daily taken out once or twice a year to a open road race and also hit track days often and the occaisional one mile event would be fun without having to compete in any specific class. so, any suspension mods can be considered since this car will not be hindered by class rules, my engine mods would disqualify me anyways. thanks

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

Wow Sam, I didn't realize you had 13 championships-good job. Makes a lot of those other suspension experts look like first graders.

MisterskeetZ

Insert Koni plug here

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

So what's the better differential? The T2-R I got from
you is still doing fine for me. Though you probably beat
on yours more.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

You seem to have some sort of issue with my recommending a great product, should I recommend something not appropriate? Maybe you'd prefer it if I just sold whatever parts folks want. I can do that, but see.... if you ask you have to be ready for an answer you may not like.

If you don't want to ask or already know more than I do, or have made up your mind---then you can order from the website and we never have to discuss anything and you never have to heard anything you don't want to hear. But until it's a bad thing in the eyes of most--I will still be upfront and honest when recommending parts.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I tore up 2 in one year.... Many others have as well, but the issue seems to stem from diffs made after 2003/2004. They don't fail so much as just stop limiting slip (they wear internally).

We are using more and more Eaton units now. The Carbon clutches are so much more wear resistant than the old organic clutches it's not funny.... And they work. I also will still use Auburn Racer's units from time to time as well. And we have TrueTrac as well. But they aren't super tight--very similar to stock Camaro SS Torsens.

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

Beat it kid. Konis are the best hands down. Of course someones going to recommend Konis after knowing how good they are. Why do you have so much of a problem from it coming from someone who knows the truth about konis? You must be someone who is on Monroe shocks. What pisses me off the most is not even being able to give people advice these days. Don't tear up a product because either a) you have never ridden on konis or b) you cant afford them.

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

Nope, I recommend that you buy the cheapest shocks and pair them with the stiffest springs you can find. Your car will have reduced roll and you'll never bottom out.

pjb

iTrader: (2)

what is the stock differential in a 98 SS?

Siciliano15

iTrader: (7)

lol when i bought my car it had stock shocks up front and monroe sensatraks in the back. dam those things sucked. the front of the car was so loose and unstable and when i hit a bump it felt like i had no suspension it would be a loud thud sound from the back. replaced all of those with the strano specific bilsteins and its a whole new car now. rides beautiful and is much tighter and in control.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Sam...are you having your Eaton differentials rebuilt, and if so, where? I can never seem to figure out who can rebuild them and how much it costs...

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Depends if you have the optional differential or not. If not, it's the same Auburn that came in any other Z28 from GM.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Any rear-end shop can rebuild them. I do mine myself when we have to. A rebuild kit is about $160. Kind of a pain in the *** getting it back together, but not rocket science.

pjb

iTrader: (2)

how do they compare to others?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

They pretty much suck. Not very tight, and the clutches wear. We'd change them twice a year on serious autox cars because we'd tear them up so fast. Street cars get better wear, but they still wear.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

What parts do you use (like how heavy are the preload springs, etc) for the ones you have set up? The Eaton that came in my Strange 12-bolt I'm pretty sure came with the 800 lb/in preload springs, but I don't know anything else about it, nor how it compares to one that was set up with twisties in mind...