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Getting lower with Strano/koni Setup

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Old May 2, 2010 | 11:17 PM
  #41  
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Default I hope this helps

lol I dont know if anyone has tried to use paint on a MAC but it doesnt exist so I used some program called GIMP to create this pic, it took a while haha.
I hope this picture makes it easier for people to see what this mod really does with the konis on the lower perch. Please let me know if anything is wrong, I think its correct. Kinda hard to make a picture without the part in your hand.

Note that with the upper mount mod and the spring on the lower perch ( perch is the blue horizontal line), the perch is still in the same vertical location as the shot of no mod on the upper perch.

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Old May 3, 2010 | 04:00 PM
  #42  
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by doing to mod and putting the koni/strano setup on the lower perch. Do I risk the chance of the spring not being able to be compressed ?
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Old May 3, 2010 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 01Blk*SS*
I am trying to picture why running the konis on the lower perch with stranos is bad.... Is it because the shocks travel is increased the extra lower perch distance which makes it more likely for the shock to hit the bumpstop harder??? lol i hope that made sense...
Because there is only a limited about of travel. The less travel, the more spring rate you need to compensate. The rates of my springs were dictated to match the stock perch height. If you want to lower the car more with the lower perch, that's up to you, but I generally do not recommend it.

I haven't do the "UMM". That should gain you travel back, in which case then using the lower perch would be ok.
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Old May 3, 2010 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
Because there is only a limited about of travel. The less travel, the more spring rate you need to compensate. The rates of my springs were dictated to match the stock perch height. If you want to lower the car more with the lower perch, that's up to you, but I generally do not recommend it.

I haven't do the "UMM". That should gain you travel back, in which case then using the lower perch would be ok.
thanks for clearing things up Sam!

I guess my next question would be:
If I plan on doing the UMM and putting the spring on the lower perch, is there a chance the spring wont be compressed on the lower perch when assembled.
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Old May 3, 2010 | 05:55 PM
  #45  
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Spring won't have much if any tension on it when put together.... until the car sits on it, then everything will compress down to the spring's height. You would just have to be careful when you lower the car to guide the spring so that the spring pigtail fits the upper mount properly.
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Old May 3, 2010 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 01Blk*SS*
Also do you know the distance between the two perch grooves?
On my Konis I measured a little less than 3/8", more like 11/32". When you multiply this by 1.7 (the ratio of wheel travel vs. spring travel) you get between 9/16" & 5/8" body drop on the lower perch.

If you do the UMM at 1/2" (or more) and use the lower perch you actually have more shock travel available than stock.
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Old May 3, 2010 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by hiltsy855
On my Konis I measured a little less than 3/8", more like 11/32". When you multiply this by 1.7 (the ratio of wheel travel vs. spring travel) you get between 9/16" & 5/8" body drop on the lower perch.

If you do the UMM at 1/2" (or more) and use the lower perch you actually have more shock travel available than stock.

thanks for the reply! I thought I'd never get the answer haha.
Are you sure you can multiply the 11/32" drop by the ratio to get how much the fender gap will close? If thats the case, I will be even more satisfied with this mod!
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Old May 3, 2010 | 10:43 PM
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On my car moving the spring seat (Ground Control adjustable )1/8" changes the ride height 1/4".
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Old May 3, 2010 | 11:26 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by 99Bluz28
On my car moving the spring seat (Ground Control adjustable )1/8" changes the ride height 1/4".
is your ratio still 1.7 with your setup?
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Old May 3, 2010 | 11:53 PM
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I guess not, I've had a total of 5 different ride height adjustable setups on the front of my car and they all have been the same ratio.
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Old May 4, 2010 | 12:17 AM
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Subscribing! Im doing koni's and springs very soon and I want it to be LOW!!
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Old May 4, 2010 | 06:55 AM
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I recall the 1.7 ratio from a JasonWW thread, it might have been the original UMM thread. Jason is usually pretty accurate with that stuff. If you split the difference and use 1.85 that gives you a little over 5/8" drop.
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Old May 4, 2010 | 04:31 PM
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would it be possible to do the UMM with a hacksaw. What tool did you do to cut the upper mount?
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Old May 4, 2010 | 09:26 PM
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I used a Sawzall and it took about 5 minutes per side. I suppose you could do it with a hacksaw but it would take quite a while. You'll have Popeye arms when you're done.
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Old May 5, 2010 | 02:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 01Blk*SS*
would it be possible to do the UMM with a hacksaw. What tool did you do to cut the upper mount?
I did the first one with a dremel and 4 cut-off wheels, I finally finished after 1 hour. The second one I used a good hacksaw and a new blade and it took me 30 minutes, including two 5 minute beer breaks

IMO, if you have access to a band saw it would work best, otherwise use a die grinder with a 3-4" cut-off wheel.
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Old May 5, 2010 | 08:40 AM
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I only have a sawzall, grinder and a hacksaw, I havent lived in San Diego very long and dont know anyone with a bandsaw :-(
anyone got pics on how the cutting came out?
Hiltsy855 and 99BluZ28, Did you guys cut a full 3/4 off the upper mount?
Hiltsy, do you have the strano/koni setup?
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Old May 5, 2010 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by hiltsy855
You'll have Popeye arms when you're done.
Eats some spinach
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Old May 5, 2010 | 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 01Blk*SS*
I only have a sawzall, grinder and a hacksaw, I havent lived in San Diego very long and dont know anyone with a bandsaw :-(
anyone got pics on how the cutting came out?
Hiltsy855 and 99BluZ28, Did you guys cut a full 3/4 off the upper mount?
Hiltsy, do you have the strano/koni setup?
No pics, sorry. IMO, the sawzall is the ticket for these cuts. Use a 3/4" or 1" wide blade so it won't try to wander while you make the cut. 99 has obviously had success with other methods though so do as you will. I didn't cut the whole 3/4" off, I only went a strong 1/2".

I had Stranos for a couple weeks but they were too stiff for my taste.
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Old May 5, 2010 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by hiltsy855
No pics, sorry. IMO, the sawzall is the ticket for these cuts. Use a 3/4" or 1" wide blade so it won't try to wander while you make the cut. 99 has obviously had success with other methods though so do as you will. I didn't cut the whole 3/4" off, I only went a strong 1/2".

I had Stranos for a couple weeks but they were too stiff for my taste.
Ya im thinking maybe do the ruff cut with a sawzall then clean it up with the grinder???
So did you have the koni/strano setup on the car before and after you did the UMM? lower perch? and if so how much did it lower your car?
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Old May 5, 2010 | 02:11 PM
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Measure and mark around the entire circumference you need to cut, then cut through the initial layer of rubber first. If you're using a hacksaw clamp it upside down in a vise(if you have one), then move the upper mount back and forth by hand.
Regardless of how you cut it you need to have it secured in a vise.

I cut off 5/8", measured from the metal tube in the middle of the upper Mount.

U.M.M. with Edelbrock IAS shocks

U.M.M. with Koni SA's and GC kit



Last edited by 99Bluz28; May 5, 2010 at 02:25 PM.
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