So I just installed my UMI 3 pt SFC's. Awesome fit! Love them even though I have not driven it yet. Question is, How tight did you guys go on those bolts? I know what the instructions say. I went 80 ftlbs on LCA for now seeing as how the original bolt did not seem very tight what so ever. Then went 100 ft lbs right from the start on the front two bolts. Then just the german torque on the mid bolts at tunnel brace. Should I have went tighter? I don't want this thing creeking on me etc. Or just drive and see? Thanks

 

i just re read the instructions.......there is no TQ spec for the front bolts......72 ft pds for back LCA's.....and if loose...........100 ft pds

i did my fronts tight and used thread locker

 

Yeah, I know there is no spec for the others, but they are the same size bolt and grade so they're easily good for 100 ft lbs in the front. I thread locked all of them except the LCA since it has nylock nut. Like I said, I know what the instructions say. Looking for input as to what others have found worked for them. Thanks for looking though.

 

You drive with those on yet? How do they make the car feel?

 

its as solid as silicone boobies ..........

 

Have not driven yet.

 

Well if that's the case then I have no excuse to not put them on And they look just as good on the car I bet.

 

I love it. Got to drive it on a road course track today! Fun Fun Fun!!!

 

Nice!!! How was it as far as harshness of the ride? Any increased noise, and if so how bad? I really want these SFCs but just gotta wait for the budget to allow it. BTW are they the mild steel or chrome-moly version?

 

wondering the same questions as above, the dents in my driver rear quarter are starting to come back it looks like so i figure stiffening the chassis with sfc's might alleviate the problem...just dont want any negative effects...

 

Hello
Where you have them tightened down to is good enough. I would only suggest going to 70 lbs in the front, 90 lbs in the rear, and Hand tight on the tunnel bolts (don't want to strip them out). If you have any other questions feel free to ask.

lol...all they need it glitter and cheap perfume...

Take Care
Brad

 

Thanks guys
Yeah, I did only do hand tight in tunnel area with a 3/8 ratchet. Rears I left at 80 and they are quieter than when it was stock. The stock bolts I took out were not very tight at all. Over all I don't think the ride is any more harsh than without. Just feels much more solid and responsive. It's actually like I said somewhat quieter than stock because there isn't as much flexing and creaking etc. This is by far a GREAT product. I only went with mild steel. I'm not going to the point of caring about added wt. I just want it strong.
Thanks UMI!

 

Skip the bolts, and just weld them bad boys in!! no bolts to come loose, or joints that can slip.

 

You are very welcome and we thank you for the business, it is appreciated!

Ryan

 

YIKES! I think I over torqued the tunnlel brace bolts. Should I back them off?

 

No they should be just fine, just over tightening them can strip or break the pem nut that GM uses. We recommend to just tighten them with a 3/8" ratchet.

Hope that helps!
Ryan

 

Thanks. I'll look at them in about 500 miles or so to make sure everything is still torqued to specs. And I'll learn the proper spelling for tunnel.

 

I've got the 3pt SFC's to, I've had them in for about 6 months now (weld). Love em'. I just need to stop bs'ing on my watts link install, and rear end rebuild. Here's a pic of mine.

 

Those look really nice down there especially with the tunnel brace / DS safety / Torque arm mount bit in the middle. How do they ride?

 

Rides like she's on rails. My only issue is that I need to get the rear end dialed in (watts link install), and on very hard cornering I get a little fender rub with my 315's. Before the sway bar/SFC I'd rub on every corner. Need to do the BFH mod as well.