UMI 3 PT Bolt in install question
05-21-2010, 07:15 PM
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UMI 3 PT Bolt in install question So I just installed my UMI 3 pt SFC's. Awesome fit! Love them even though I have not driven it yet. Question is, How tight did you guys go on those bolts? I know what the instructions say. I went 80 ftlbs on LCA for now seeing as how the original bolt did not seem very tight what so ever. Then went 100 ft lbs right from the start on the front two bolts. Then just the german torque on the mid bolts at tunnel brace. Should I have went tighter? I don't want this thing creeking on me etc. Or just drive and see? Thanks
05-21-2010, 07:50 PM
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Yeah, I know there is no spec for the others, but they are the same size bolt and grade so they're easily good for 100 ft lbs in the front. I thread locked all of them except the LCA since it has nylock nut. Like I said, I know what the instructions say. Looking for input as to what others have found worked for them. Thanks for looking though.
And they look just as good on the car I bet. Trending Topics
05-23-2010, 05:11 PM
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Nice!!! How was it as far as harshness of the ride? Any increased noise, and if so how bad? I really want these SFCs but just gotta wait for the budget to allow it. BTW are they the mild steel or chrome-moly version?
05-24-2010, 07:16 AM
#11
So I just installed my UMI 3 pt SFC's. Awesome fit! Love them even though I have not driven it yet. Question is, How tight did you guys go on those bolts? I know what the instructions say. I went 80 ftlbs on LCA for now seeing as how the original bolt did not seem very tight what so ever. Then went 100 ft lbs right from the start on the front two bolts. Then just the german torque on the mid bolts at tunnel brace. Should I have went tighter? I don't want this thing creeking on me etc. Or just drive and see? Thanks
Where you have them tightened down to is good enough. I would only suggest going to 70 lbs in the front, 90 lbs in the rear, and Hand tight on the tunnel bolts (don't want to strip them out). If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
lol...all they need it glitter and cheap perfume...
Take Care
Brad
05-24-2010, 02:08 PM
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Hello
Where you have them tightened down to is good enough. I would only suggest going to 70 lbs in the front, 90 lbs in the rear, and Hand tight on the tunnel bolts (don't want to strip them out). If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
lol...all they need it glitter and cheap perfume...
Take Care
Brad
Where you have them tightened down to is good enough. I would only suggest going to 70 lbs in the front, 90 lbs in the rear, and Hand tight on the tunnel bolts (don't want to strip them out). If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
lol...all they need it glitter and cheap perfume...
Take Care
Brad
Yeah, I did only do hand tight in tunnel area with a 3/8 ratchet. Rears I left at 80 and they are quieter than when it was stock. The stock bolts I took out were not very tight at all. Over all I don't think the ride is any more harsh than without. Just feels much more solid and responsive. It's actually like I said somewhat quieter than stock because there isn't as much flexing and creaking etc. This is by far a GREAT product. I only went with mild steel. I'm not going to the point of caring about added wt. I just want it strong.
Thanks UMI!
06-02-2010, 11:29 PM
#17
Thanks. I'll look at them in about 500 miles or so to make sure everything is still torqued to specs. And I'll learn the proper spelling for tunnel.
Last edited by Double Aught; 06-02-2010 at 11:36 PM.
06-02-2010, 11:48 PM
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I've got the 3pt SFC's to, I've had them in for about 6 months now (weld). Love em'. I just need to stop bs'ing on my watts link install, and rear end rebuild. Here's a pic of mine.
06-03-2010, 08:00 AM
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Rides like she's on rails. My only issue is that I need to get the rear end dialed in (watts link install), and on very hard cornering I get a little fender rub with my 315's. Before the sway bar/SFC I'd rub on every corner. Need to do the BFH mod as well.