Which LCA
I installed UMI poly/poly non adjustable ones round a month ago and ive been happy with them so far. My car doesnt really handle any better, but I didnt expect it to. However the rear kinda feels a little more firm and stiffer. Definately a great quality product.
Hello
Thanks for choosing UMI Performance for your suspension needs. That is pretty typical having a firmer ride quality from going to the stamped OEM control arms to the solid tubular with poly bushings. If you have any other questions feel free to ask and thanks again for choosing UMI Performance.
Thanks
Brad
Thanks for choosing UMI Performance for your suspension needs. That is pretty typical having a firmer ride quality from going to the stamped OEM control arms to the solid tubular with poly bushings. If you have any other questions feel free to ask and thanks again for choosing UMI Performance.
Thanks
Brad
Perform and handle better? In what way -- vague answers really aren't helpful. What is noticeable? (talking about LCAs here, not PHB)
Depends on what you do with the vehicle depends on what end you would go with. If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
Thanks
Brad
Last edited by UMI Sales; Jul 20, 2010 at 07:41 AM.
General consensus is that poly is better for a daily driver, but I've been running rod ends on my car for years and daily drove it quite a bit of that time. Only time I ever noticed any clunking was when the rod ends were shot and needed replaced. :shrug:
Drag racing, not so much, but handling on the street and auto-x/road racing shows the differences.
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Hello
If the vehicle is at stock ride height then you will notice a difference in the performance of the vehicle. Especially over the factory bushings that I am sure are shot due to dry-root and LCA's they are flexible due to the stamped material. But it depends on what your set up is..Is the vehicle lowered? If it is lowered the relocation brackets will allow you to readjust the LCA back to the correct position. Therefore eliminating the wheel hop of the vehicle and increasing your traction.
If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
Thanks
Brad
If the vehicle is at stock ride height then you will notice a difference in the performance of the vehicle. Especially over the factory bushings that I am sure are shot due to dry-root and LCA's they are flexible due to the stamped material. But it depends on what your set up is..Is the vehicle lowered? If it is lowered the relocation brackets will allow you to readjust the LCA back to the correct position. Therefore eliminating the wheel hop of the vehicle and increasing your traction.
If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
Thanks
Brad
After talking to Strano I went with the non adjustable poly/roto LCA's and some relocation brackets.
As mentioned previously the poly/poly can bind up and will not let the rearend articulate correctly.
With drag racing poly/poly would be fine.
I was going to buy the adjustable LCA's but Sam didn't feel I needed them.
Apparently these roto ends are the bee's knees.
As mentioned previously the poly/poly can bind up and will not let the rearend articulate correctly.
With drag racing poly/poly would be fine.
I was going to buy the adjustable LCA's but Sam didn't feel I needed them.
Apparently these roto ends are the bee's knees.
The guys at UMI told me the roto-joints are really for road racing. Using as a DD you'd be fine with the poly/poly so thats what I went with (LCA's and relocation brackets) I also got this suggestion from the shop I'm going to. So idk they look like great pieces but if it's not "necessary" why spend the extra money for something you don't need per say.
The guys at UMI told me the roto-joints are really for road racing. Using as a DD you'd be fine with the poly/poly so thats what I went with (LCA's and relocation brackets) I also got this suggestion from the shop I'm going to. So idk they look like great pieces but if it's not "necessary" why spend the extra money for something you don't need per say.
Hello Tony
They both do have there pros and cons. But it all depends what your plans are for the vehicle. Such as if its a daily driver and sees limited track time then the poly/roto will maintain a great ride quality and still allow for articulation on the rear end. But if the vehicle is more of a serious corner carver or higher HP then I would suggest going with the roto/roto due to the fact that the delrin in the roto's will hold up very well and allow you to put the power to the ground. They will offer a little more firmer ride quality due to the delrin but I am sure if you can over look the ride for the performance aspect. You will not be disappointed. If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad
They both do have there pros and cons. But it all depends what your plans are for the vehicle. Such as if its a daily driver and sees limited track time then the poly/roto will maintain a great ride quality and still allow for articulation on the rear end. But if the vehicle is more of a serious corner carver or higher HP then I would suggest going with the roto/roto due to the fact that the delrin in the roto's will hold up very well and allow you to put the power to the ground. They will offer a little more firmer ride quality due to the delrin but I am sure if you can over look the ride for the performance aspect. You will not be disappointed. If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad
you can see my current mods in my sig.
put a watts link on order today.
the car is a semi DD and is also used for corner carving, autoxing, some track days and the occasionaly 10 or so 1/4 passes per year.
plans are for heads and a cam eventually.
was thinking about poly/roto adjustable LCAs or roto/roto LCAs. which ones would you recommend for me and why?
also, with the strano springs, would you recommend LCA relo brackets?
thanks
tony
PMs are useful.
I'd say rod ends or roto-joints, based on how the car is used. You'll still have some squish and bind with poly bushings, even though it'd be significantly less than a softer-durometer stock-style, and the only downside to a rod-end or roto-joint is increased transmitted noise (and replacement costs for the rod end, which doesn't apply to the roto-joint style setup).
I'd say rod ends or roto-joints, based on how the car is used. You'll still have some squish and bind with poly bushings, even though it'd be significantly less than a softer-durometer stock-style, and the only downside to a rod-end or roto-joint is increased transmitted noise (and replacement costs for the rod end, which doesn't apply to the roto-joint style setup).
