jthunderz28

I have an 02' WS6 m6 daily driven car.

What would be the best mods to do first as far as suspension and chassis?

I may do a little Auto X in once or twice a year and maybe the drag strip like once a year. It won't be a hard core built car asides from bolt ons.

Can you guys point me in the right direction, and who can you vouch for as far as quality and value to use for parts??? I know BMR and Eibach come to mind as far as name recognition to me.

jsteele90

iTrader: (13)

koni sa shocks with strano springs and sways. subframe connecters and lcas

1993 z28 f1

iTrader: (6)

Hey:

UMI, BMR, Spohn, Madman, Strano, J&M/Hotpart, Unbalanced Engineering, Wolf Racecraft,
And Founders Performance, are all websites you should be googling, All have good stuff.
As mention above SFCs, Adj LCA, Adj PHB, and Shocks and sways. Good Luck On your Search.

Dub

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

It's good to hear that our name stands for itself. As mentioned above, your first few products that should be an absolute are subframe connectors and control arms. Stiffening up your chassis will allow your suspension to do it's job better and control arms will help prevent rear end destroying wheel-hop.

These two items alone will make a noticeable difference in how the car feels. If your budget allows, I would probably go with our basic Handling Package as a second round of mods. Better spring rates, a lower center of gravity, and increased roll stiffness will really wake your car up in the corners and this kit will do it without breaking the bank.



For more information, images, and prices on all of our 4th gen products, go HERE.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Wow.. this thread is going to turn out bad. I know it already.

Daily driver? Toss in a tubular K-Member, tub out the rear fenders so you can fit 355 tires.. solid engine mounts.. a stage 19 clutch.. swap out the diff with a spool.. there you go, perfect daily

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Why LCAs?

Bigger sways will make your cornering more fun too... Strut brace too.

I would not want to lower a daily driver, since you will just be bottoming out more coming out of driveways and businesses, etc.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Ok, let's talk about wheel hop -- what causes it? Which parts rectify it, and how do they do so? TIA!

I found a little video clip showing it nicely goto 1:40 in the clip:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1SSIGSTPBo

NVR_SPDS

iTrader: (39)

I personally would go: LCAs, Adjustable PHR, SFCs, and a good shock/spring setup with good sway bars. A good torque arm would help in getting the power to the ground as well. Im running UMI, and am very happy.

A setup good for Auto X, wont necesarily be ideal for drag, and vice versa. So id look for a setup leaning more towards what youll be doing the most, which is probably Auto X and street driving.

Something like a poly/rod or poly/rotojoint, etc. that way you have a poly to mount to the body, and the opposite end can twist without binding as the suspension travels.

jthunderz28

Appreciate all the help guys.

I already have a GMMG exhaust on order, and I'm buying a lid. So the budget can only allow so much right now.

I think I will go for the sub frame connectors, LCA, and strut tower brace for now.

It seems like UMI performance has some really awesome prices, and everyone I've talked to is vouching for their quality.

Element

iTrader: (5)

UMI makes good stuff. I'm close, so I can order my parts on a Tuesday afternoon and get them at 8:30 the next morning, which doesn't hurt things

You might consider a set of LCA relocation brackets, too. They're not too expensive, and they eliminated the wheel-hop my car had, even with aftermarket LCAs. If you're keeping the stock sways right now, I'd personally spend the money on new sway bushings and end-links rather than the STB.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hello
Seeing how it is a DD and you are looking to set it up multipurpose. I would suggest first going with a set of Non adjustable lower control arms and Pan Hard Bar with the combo of a Poly/Roto. The poly on the chassis side will maintain a good ride quality and the Roto Joint will allow for any articulation of the rear end eliminating any binding issues. Below is a link to show you what I am explaining.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...jbdcp9mpi7bhq4

And also to help with the traction performance I would suggest going with a set of Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets. They will allow you to fine tune the rear end by allowing you to adjust the lower control arm to increase your traction performance and eliminate wheel hop. We offer them in both weld on and a bolt on application. Below is another link to show you.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...jbdcp9mpi7bhq4

And my third suggestion to help with your daily driving and road racing and auto crossing. I would a set of aftermarket front and rear sway bar. The sway bar combo has been through a lot of R&D to see what is the best all around performance of a solid bar. Therefore in the result we came up with a 35mm front and a 22 rear to help control body roll and improve you handling using Energy Suspension body mount bushings and end links. Below is a link

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...jbdcp9mpi7bhq4

And my last suggestion to help with your ride quality and vehicle performance. Would be to get in touch with Sam at stranoparts.com for a set of his Lowering Springs and a set of adjustable shocks. His products have been tested and approved. And he is a good guy to deal with. Besides he carries our products as well so it can be a one stop shop!

When you choose UMI Performance for you suspension needs. You are getting a great quality product that is made right here in the USA at our own facility. We also offer great customer service and tech support. If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad

jthunderz28

Hey Brad,

so you would even go with those mods first over a set of subframe connectors?

I was thinking subframes first to help stiffen the car up a little bit, and quiet down some of the squeaks.

Also, for a daily driver car would it be best to go with the Diamond Style 3 point subframes or for the 2 point box style connectors???

Whats the main difference between the 3 point diamond style and the 2 point box style??

Thanks again for the help to all who chimed in.

JD_AMG

Before you do any impulse buying you may want to spend some time searching. While SFC's certainly are not bad, there are many members that put them on and see no difference. This goes the same for a STB.
The one thing that you should go for is replacing things that don't work very well in the first place, like the stock shocks.
IMHO the "best" DD setup would be Koni SAs and a nice set of tires, nothing more. The konis will have you riding better than stock (think german sports sedan, firm controlled, but not jarring) and dramatically improve grip, balance and feel.
While springs and swaybars make a big difference in handling (yet still not as big of a difference as good shocks) they will generally negatively impact ride quality. Aftermarket LCA's can also hurt ride quality (rod end's can clunk and squeek, while poly ends can bind and cause harshness).
Some of the worst things you can do is combine lack luster shocks with lowering springs. Ride quality will suffer, and the car will not feel stable handling. Also since you have a WS6 don't be tricked into buying a 32mm front swaybar, as you already have one.
Remember to search search search.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

If you put on SFRs and a STB and cannot notice the difference, you just are not attuned to your car!

Yea, the crappy sheet metal connecting front and rear subframes does not work well, hence SFRs...

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hello
Thanks for the great question! Yes sub-frame connectors would be a great idea as well. I just wanted to post you the products that you will really notice the difference in performance. Don't get me wrong you will notice a tremendous difference in the weight transfer and like you mentioned above how much firmer the vehicle will fell. But they also will keep the body damage off of the vehicle as well such as the dimples on the quarter panels and they will help with the squeaks as well.

The vehicle being a DD the difference in the 3pt compared to the 2pt is. The 3 pt SFC's tie all three of the weakest points of the chassis together. Therefore providing maximum weight transfer especially if the vehicle is a serious race vehicle or higher HP combo. A lot of customers seem to like the 3pts to tie our tunnel mounted torque arms together into the combo as well. Don't get me wrong the 2pt when installed you will notice a huge difference as well with weight transfer and clearly they are lighter than the 3ptrs. We have used quite a few combos on our customers vehicles using both the tubular and boxed 2pts. What it comes down to is a personal preference and what your future plans are for the vehicle. No matter what you will never have to worry about out growing a set of SFC's. As long as they are installed its a plus for the vehicle. If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
Thanks
Brad

meine96ws6

iTrader: (4)

start by getting your car breathing in and out better. for handling i would find a budget friendly spring and shock combo to lower your center of gravity. SFC's, and a good set of tires.