pad and rotor help
pad and rotor help I need some options for replacement blanks rotors and low dusting pads that still have good stopping power. I need fronts and backs. Any advice is appreciate and budget isn't really a concern. Options for both cheap and quality would be nice. And I mostly do street driving with a lot of stop and go but occasionaly do auto-x and drag.
centric premium rotors have a nice black e-coating on all no contact surfaces which will help prevent rust. Also, look into Hawk ceramic pads for better stopping power with less dust.
Has anyone tried the brembo blanks or slotted? Will the slotted dust more and how much will it affect performance? Where can I get centrics?
Last edited by 94dragbird; Jul 20, 2010 at 09:59 PM.
Slotted will probably dust a little more (they're designed to shave the pad a bit to keep it from glazing, if I remember right, pretty pointless for a street car or anything short of a *****-out road race car using race-compound pads) and won't give any performance benefits on the street. Cross-drilling was to allow outgassing from race pads to vent without building up as a buffer between the pad and rotor...again, pointless on anything but an all-out road race car, and it also decreases the total mass of the rotor, meaning less heatsink, which equates to heating the rotors up more quickly and higher possibility of warping them. I think most cross-drilled rotors crack around the holes, regardless of brand.
I ran Brembo blanks and was happy with them, have a set of ATE blanks waiting to go on the car, along with a bunch of other brake stuff. Hawk HPS pads are pretty good, some dust but nothing horrible. I picked up Advance Auto rotors and pads in the back - to me, the price for the expensive parts doesn't justify the small amount of braking the rear contributes. I've actually still got the stock pads and rotors on the back of the car at 86k miles.
I ran Brembo blanks and was happy with them, have a set of ATE blanks waiting to go on the car, along with a bunch of other brake stuff. Hawk HPS pads are pretty good, some dust but nothing horrible. I picked up Advance Auto rotors and pads in the back - to me, the price for the expensive parts doesn't justify the small amount of braking the rear contributes. I've actually still got the stock pads and rotors on the back of the car at 86k miles.
Slotted will probably dust a little more (they're designed to shave the pad a bit to keep it from glazing, if I remember right, pretty pointless for a street car or anything short of a *****-out road race car using race-compound pads) and won't give any performance benefits on the street. Cross-drilling was to allow outgassing from race pads to vent without building up as a buffer between the pad and rotor...again, pointless on anything but an all-out road race car, and it also decreases the total mass of the rotor, meaning less heatsink, which equates to heating the rotors up more quickly and higher possibility of warping them. I think most cross-drilled rotors crack around the holes, regardless of brand.
should have stopped there. if you read the disclaimers on tireracks website, it states plainly that drilled rotors should NEVER be used on the track. race or street pads, doesnt matter.....its been over 15 years since the compound on ANY pad produced out gassing. i autox and track day, and my track rotors are brembo blanks, period. no slots, no bullshit holes, nothing.
However, I am curious - don't Z06 and ZR1 cars come from the factory with cross-drilled rotors? I understand there's no benefit from using them, but I don't see why Tire Rack would specifically warn against using cross-drilled rotors on track cars, when factory-designed track cars are coming with them. I know cross-drilling causes the rotor to be prone to cracking, but from what I'd read, it's more of a gradual thing rather than an abrupt catastrophic failure due to thermal fatigue cracks.
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alot of the new high end cars have carbon fiber brakes. you cant compare iron to carbon. also, having holes cast into the rotor while its being made, through the vane part, is much stronger then simply drilling holes *****-nilly into to rotor face after it was cast.
another big reason why is marketing. many people dont know what their car has or uses, and dont know that there are better options out there. thats why firestone has been the ONLY ford truck tire supplier for 80 years. when the tires wear out, many people who dont know/care will simply say 'put whatever was on there before'.....and giving firestone more business. same can be said for rotors, brakes, and the like. unless a true enthusiast owns the car and does research, when the time comes to replace brakes/rotors, the typical owner will just say 'put whatever came on them', IF they get that option at all. if you take it to a dealer, theyll simply put whatever they want on it, charge you up the ***, and expect you to smile.
another big reason why is marketing. many people dont know what their car has or uses, and dont know that there are better options out there. thats why firestone has been the ONLY ford truck tire supplier for 80 years. when the tires wear out, many people who dont know/care will simply say 'put whatever was on there before'.....and giving firestone more business. same can be said for rotors, brakes, and the like. unless a true enthusiast owns the car and does research, when the time comes to replace brakes/rotors, the typical owner will just say 'put whatever came on them', IF they get that option at all. if you take it to a dealer, theyll simply put whatever they want on it, charge you up the ***, and expect you to smile.
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