DaddySS

Also buy new sway bar links, the bolts are generally pretty rusted and you'll make your life easier.

to get the upper ball joint off the spindle, leave the nut on to protect the threads and give the spindle a few good raps with a hammer where the ball joint stud goes through - it'll come right off.

eseibel67

iTrader: (10)

I have a completely rust-free desert car, and the upper shock mounts were rusted when I took it apart 2 months ago. Whenever water does gets in, it stays in because it can neither drain nor evaporate. Amazing design.

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

Curiously, on my 00 Formula (CA/AR car) and my son's 97 Firebird (KS car), they came off no problem. On my 01 T/A, (TX/OK car) they were a bear. Running them up and down with air and plenty of penetrating fluid finally got them off. But IIRC, it was about 45 minutes a side on the nut alone. I have yet to see what my 02 Formula (OR car) has in store for me ...

99SSJarhead

iTrader: (2)

Normally, ripped or torn rubber boots is a good sign to change them out.

With tie rod ends, excessive wiggle in the tire.

Regulator

iTrader: (7)

Welp, finished up tonight around 9pm, started at about 10am lol. Oh, and had already done the rear suspension Saturday night in about 2 hours...

For the upper arms, I jacked up the spindle, slid a separator fork in as far as I could, then lowered the jack and let spring/strut do the rest, piece of cake on those. Driver side was off and on in no time.

The passenger side, to hell with that thing. The shock nut was rusted so bad the nut was no longer recognizable. Spent the next few hours cutting the stock springs off the strut, cutting the strut in half, grinding the top of the strut rod/nut off the car, and then hammering the rod out through the top hat. It was rusted completely through and wouldn't budge even after grinding the top off. If it wasn't for the bump stop I wouldn't have bothered with it, I ended up buying a new spring hat and rubber insulator but couldn't find a bump stop anywhere in town.

Aside from that, everything went amazingly smooth. Rear looks pretty close to right, just had to eyeball the PHB adjustment for now. Got all the shocks/struts set to 6 on the AGX's, seems to handle great so far!

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Ya know, this is the kind of thing you would think GM engineers would spend some time addressing -- also -- where are the aftermarket solutions?!

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Is it pretty similar to the coupe to get at the rear shock tops in a convertible? I haven't investigated it yet... TIA

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

IMO, coat the inside of the entire upper mount, including the shock shaft where it protrudes through the upper mount with super grease, or synthetic grease to prevent any future issues with rust from happening again.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

i packed the upper mount full of marine grease......that bitch will never rust again

eseibel67

iTrader: (10)

Behind the rear seatback, there are windows perforated into the carpet that you can cut to gain access to the upper mounts. I'm a bit **** about cutting, so I removed the seats and trim so I could pull the carpet to the side without cutting it.

I would assume coupe is the same.

Regulator

iTrader: (7)

I just pulled the seat down, and rolled the carpet back to get to the shocks. Had to pull it out from behind the sail panel plastics but it was pretty straightforward.

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

My first 2 f-body I never knew they made windows, I just rolled the carpet up from the back and that worked fine.

cemlsx

i'll be changing mine in a month or so , good to know these.. seems like its going to be a pain in the a** :\