Extra tips/tricks/FYI's for shock/spring install?
#1
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Extra tips/tricks/FYI's for shock/spring install?
Going to be tackling this tomorrow, I've read over the ls1howto directions, but just curious if there was anything else in particular that people seem to run into? Bolts that break/freeze up in the sleeves, etc?
#3
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some people have trouble getting the spindle arm off the bolt near the top, as was I. but after pounding on it for 5 minutes I just loaded up the suspension about 1" and it just fell off!
#4
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If possible, find a shop with a wall mount compressor. Makes the job 1000x easier than using rental compressors. Make sure that the lower shock mount is lined up correctly with the upper rubber insulator when you tighten the nut. Take note of the correct orientation before you disassemble the shock assembly.
#6
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Heres my other tip. If you use a socket on the nut, usually it will only come up half way before the whole shock starts to spin internally, requiring you to use a 14mm wrench and a 6mm wrench to hold the top piece still.
So, under that nut is a rubber coated big washer thing, that fits the shape cut into the top of the mount. I cut off with a knife the rubber "ear" that is on the side that doesn't have the studs so its much easier to put a wrench on there and turn it. You will see what I mean when you take it apart, but there are two little ears on the left and right of the nut that make it a bitch to put a wrench on it. This helps if the nut is seized on there real well and you need to put some torque to it.
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#10
Have to agree on orientation of spring/shock to lower mount... had a shop with a wall mounted compressor complete... got home, all ready to install and it wouldnt line up correctly. I couldnt turn as the spring was compressed so I had to bring them back the next day...
#13
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Yeah, the bolt heads are different on the two upper mounts towards the fire wall on the driverside. You'll have to remove the two nuts on the master cylinder and move it alittle to get to those bolts also.
#15
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Yeah. If you look at your shock tower, you will see two studs and two bolts. the Drivers side, in GM's infinite wisdom, has two torx head bolts, UNDER the brake reservoir. This means you need to loose the master cylinder to get a tall *** torx bit in there. The passenger side, however, has two regular 13mm bolts. Go figure. I always swap them so its much easier next time. They are the same size and thread just one is bolt head one is torx head. No rhyme or reason.
#19
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The first best tip is to pay someone else to do the fronts
This is definitely the second best tip. Don't waste your time with some crappy compressor from Autozone, get someone else to compress them for you.
If possible, find a shop with a wall mount compressor. Makes the job 1000x easier than using rental compressors. Make sure that the lower shock mount is lined up correctly with the upper rubber insulator when you tighten the nut. Take note of the correct orientation before you disassemble the shock assembly.