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Extra tips/tricks/FYI's for shock/spring install?

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Old 07-23-2010, 09:41 PM
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Default Extra tips/tricks/FYI's for shock/spring install?

Going to be tackling this tomorrow, I've read over the ls1howto directions, but just curious if there was anything else in particular that people seem to run into? Bolts that break/freeze up in the sleeves, etc?
Old 07-24-2010, 03:32 AM
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the front shock nuts will be rusted like a bitch.......prepare to replace.....cut.....or torch off
Old 07-24-2010, 07:11 AM
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some people have trouble getting the spindle arm off the bolt near the top, as was I. but after pounding on it for 5 minutes I just loaded up the suspension about 1" and it just fell off!
Old 07-24-2010, 09:12 AM
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If possible, find a shop with a wall mount compressor. Makes the job 1000x easier than using rental compressors. Make sure that the lower shock mount is lined up correctly with the upper rubber insulator when you tighten the nut. Take note of the correct orientation before you disassemble the shock assembly.
Old 07-24-2010, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by sjsingle1
the front shock nuts will be rusted like a bitch.......prepare to replace.....cut.....or torch off
Seriously? I guess I'll make a run by GM then to get some new shock nuts
Old 07-24-2010, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Regulator
Seriously? I guess I'll make a run by GM then to get some new shock nuts
Yes, they are bad. 90% of the time, they are rusted beyond recognition, even on my rust-free socal cars. I just went through this hassle 3 or 4 nights ago. The passenger side I ended up cutting off with my dremel.

Heres my other tip. If you use a socket on the nut, usually it will only come up half way before the whole shock starts to spin internally, requiring you to use a 14mm wrench and a 6mm wrench to hold the top piece still.

So, under that nut is a rubber coated big washer thing, that fits the shape cut into the top of the mount. I cut off with a knife the rubber "ear" that is on the side that doesn't have the studs so its much easier to put a wrench on there and turn it. You will see what I mean when you take it apart, but there are two little ears on the left and right of the nut that make it a bitch to put a wrench on it. This helps if the nut is seized on there real well and you need to put some torque to it.
Old 07-24-2010, 02:52 PM
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Anything else that typically needs replacing besides the nuts (and mounts, if they don't come out)?
Old 07-24-2010, 02:54 PM
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we're talking about the nut that comes through the shock tower and holds on the spring top hat correct?
Old 07-24-2010, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Regulator
we're talking about the nut that comes through the shock tower and holds on the spring top hat correct?
Yep. Also, another tip I would share, when you pull out the bolts on the passenger side swap them for the torx bits on the drivers side. It makes it much easier to put back together and/or take apart again if you have to.
Old 07-24-2010, 06:35 PM
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Have to agree on orientation of spring/shock to lower mount... had a shop with a wall mounted compressor complete... got home, all ready to install and it wouldnt line up correctly. I couldnt turn as the spring was compressed so I had to bring them back the next day...
Old 07-24-2010, 08:55 PM
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since you're in there it won't hurt to take a look at the normal wear and tear parts, tie rods and ball joints.
Old 07-24-2010, 10:07 PM
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I don't understand -- you are saying the bolts are different on driver vs. passenger sides?


Originally Posted by Arc00TA
Yep. Also, another tip I would share, when you pull out the bolts on the passenger side swap them for the torx bits on the drivers side. It makes it much easier to put back together and/or take apart again if you have to.
Old 07-24-2010, 10:27 PM
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Yeah, the bolt heads are different on the two upper mounts towards the fire wall on the driverside. You'll have to remove the two nuts on the master cylinder and move it alittle to get to those bolts also.
Old 07-24-2010, 11:01 PM
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Exclamation Yeah I got rusted Nutz!

Be ready for these, this took most of my time getting the struts changed...
Attached Thumbnails Extra tips/tricks/FYI's for shock/spring install?-hot-013.jpg   Extra tips/tricks/FYI's for shock/spring install?-hot-036.jpg  
Old 07-25-2010, 01:29 AM
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Originally Posted by libertyforall1776
I don't understand -- you are saying the bolts are different on driver vs. passenger sides?
Yeah. If you look at your shock tower, you will see two studs and two bolts. the Drivers side, in GM's infinite wisdom, has two torx head bolts, UNDER the brake reservoir. This means you need to loose the master cylinder to get a tall *** torx bit in there. The passenger side, however, has two regular 13mm bolts. Go figure. I always swap them so its much easier next time. They are the same size and thread just one is bolt head one is torx head. No rhyme or reason.
Old 07-25-2010, 01:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 99'CajunFirehawk157
Be ready for these, this took most of my time getting the struts changed...
Yep, those are the biggest pain. You can see the rubber ears I was talking about in that one. What a pain in the *** design.
Old 07-25-2010, 01:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Arc00TA
I always swap them so its much easier next time. They are the same size and thread just one is bolt head one is torx head. No rhyme or reason.
demmit. I wish I had thought of that when I swapped my upper arms
Old 07-25-2010, 03:33 AM
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Old 07-25-2010, 05:58 PM
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The first best tip is to pay someone else to do the fronts

Originally Posted by RevGTO
If possible, find a shop with a wall mount compressor. Makes the job 1000x easier than using rental compressors. Make sure that the lower shock mount is lined up correctly with the upper rubber insulator when you tighten the nut. Take note of the correct orientation before you disassemble the shock assembly.
This is definitely the second best tip. Don't waste your time with some crappy compressor from Autozone, get someone else to compress them for you.
Old 07-25-2010, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 98TAjwh
since you're in there it won't hurt to take a look at the normal wear and tear parts, tie rods and ball joints.
How can you tell if those need to be replaced?


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