Regulator

iTrader: (7)

Got my Z lowered with KYB's and Strano springs with a UMI adj. PHB, but now I think I've been bitten by the suspension bug. The car has enough power for now to get me in plenty of trouble, but I do love a car that will carve the corners so I'm leaning more that direction with this car. It's my daily driver, but I'd like to try out an auto-x sometime. Should I just stop messing with it now and enjoy the car, get to learn the new suspension, or is there more you all would suggest? I've considered maybe getting new sway bars or SFC's, what are your thoughts?

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

If you like the way your car handles now, wait until you put a set of swaybars and subframe connectors on it. Swaybars really compliment a lowered car and subframe connectors minimize current chassis flex. You'll feel like you have a whole new car!

Regulator

iTrader: (7)

Is it a huge difference in feel with the weld-in SFC's vs. bolt-in SFC's?

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Hello,

Glad to hear the Strano Springs, KYB shocks and UMI panhard bar worked well for you.

Sway bars and SFC's would be a great next modification for the car. We always recommend welding SFC's over bolting however we have also had good luck with our bolt on styles. We have a lot of customers that buy the bolt ons and have them welded later on down the road. Or they bolt them in place themselfs and take the car to a shop to complete the welding. Or run them bolted for awhile and see how they do. Here is a link to our most popular bolt on set- www.umiperformance.com/2002

For sway bars we offer a nice 35mm/22mm combination seen here- www.umiperformance.com/211213 These are fairly easy to install and require just basic hand tools. Our sway bars are CNC bent from 4140 chrome moly steel.

If you have any questions regarding our products I will be glad to help. Or all UMI items can be purchased or inquired at Strano Parts as well, it seems you might be one of Sam's customer.

Hope that helps!
Ryan

Shenlon

iTrader: (4)

I bought the bolt-ins a few years ago and it made a HUGE difference. I would highly highly recommend them to all F-body owners.

If I could do it again, I would save the couple bucks and go with weld-ins from the get-go. I went with the 3-pt versions, can't say how they compare to the 2pt unfortunately.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I'd recommend sway bars over SFC's. Bars are suspension, SFC are chassis. That doesn't make them bad, but you'll see more handling difference from bars as they actually control body roll, sfc's do not.

I'm glad you like my springs, I work really hard on the parts I make. I do the same with the swaybars. In fact I've been doing my hollow bars for a longer time than the springs. I also sell UMI's solid bars as well, and even have an adjustable and hollow rear bar for the car too.

A set of my hollow bars is $389.98. One thing to remember is that my bars were developed the same way my springs were (and in conjunction with the working rates of each other). And the combination is a proven setup that can also save you a lot of weight vs. other bars. Be careful because too much rear bar can be a problem, and I think that 25mm is too large.

SuperSport01

+1 on Stano sway bars. UMI poly/roto joint rear lca's will tighten your car up as well, I have some and they're great.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

+2 on the Strano Sway bars!
The hollow sway bars cost more, but they weigh a lot less than the solid bars do!
For the rear also add a set of UMI dual roto-joint LCA's, to help maximize the articulation of the rear suspension.

Regulator

iTrader: (7)

Are the hollow bars structurally as strong/stiff as solid bars? Factory bars are hollow correct?

I was considering the lca's as well, or at least the relocation brackets. This is my daily so I'd rather set it up more for turns as it will see that all the time vs. a straight line. From my experience the lca's focus more on straight line acceleration, or do they really help in the turns as well?

Strano, yes I love the springs so far! I was worried they wouldn't give me as much lowering as I'd like but so far I think they are perfect. The front seems to sit a touch higher than the rear, is that normal?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

For the same stiffness yes.
A hollow bar will weigh less than a solid bar of the same stiffness
Some good LCA's (not with regular poly bushings) will eliminate unwanted movement of the rear end you get with the factory LCA's and soft rubber bushings, while still allowing good articulating without any binding.
For example: UMI w/Roto-Joints, Spohn w/Del-Sphere Pivot Joint, DKT w/Johnny Joints, Any w/Rod-ends, and the one exception to the poly bushings the J&M hot parts w/3 piece Poly-Ball bushings.

redracer1

iTrader: (2)

Sam's hollow sway bars hands down. You'll be way beyond the limt of the stock bars and imo and exp wont get the most out of your current mods until you do. Since it's a DD next go for a set on UMI Poly/Roto-Joint lca's.

Regulator

iTrader: (7)

So lca's before sways?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Not unless the car has a wheelhop issue.

Bars are handling parts. LCA's really aren't. I have stock LCA's on my car with solid rubber bushings--but I have bars on the car.

If you want less roll, quicker response and better balance, you want swaybars. If you don't have wheelhop, then why change LCA's? Even if you do, that's fine, but these are two hugely different types of parts.

Regulator

iTrader: (7)

Great, thanks for the info everyone!