Camber maxed out, what to do about it
09-01-2010, 03:35 PM
#1
Camber maxed out, what to do about it I had my car aligned last week at the local dealership. The guy said my camber is maxed out and he can't get anymore. I didn't get my spec sheet at the time so I don't know what it actually is.
Lets say its still way off and I need to get some more adjustment what can I do? I think I remember Strano selling some sort of offset bushing or something but I can't remember. I would normally just call and ask Sam but he is gone racing.
I have Strano springs on the car. Anyone else have this problem?
Lets say its still way off and I need to get some more adjustment what can I do? I think I remember Strano selling some sort of offset bushing or something but I can't remember. I would normally just call and ask Sam but he is gone racing.
I have Strano springs on the car. Anyone else have this problem?
09-02-2010, 10:37 AM
#2
without knowing the numbers its hard to say whats up. F-bodies are famous for being limited on camber adj. Depending on if you are following any class rules limits the solutions, ESP you are stuck unless Sam has any of his offset bushings left( i think he sold them all). if rules are not an issue then different upper control arms will give you all the camber you want. I have had great luck with the Global west arms. Or you can grind out the adj slots, but that is a one way street, once done its perm.
09-02-2010, 08:16 PM
#4
I took it to an alignment guy that actually knows what he is doing. He was able to get .5 degree on the camber and its maxed out. The dealership had the camber and caster wrong on the driver side and didn't bother to adjust to toe in on both sides.
The car tracks straight now and feels ten times better going into a corner now. The car hasn't had a good alignment on it since I have owned it.
The car tracks straight now and feels ten times better going into a corner now. The car hasn't had a good alignment on it since I have owned it.
09-03-2010, 03:22 PM
#5
I took it to an alignment guy that actually knows what he is doing. He was able to get .5 degree on the camber and its maxed out. The dealership had the camber and caster wrong on the driver side and didn't bother to adjust to toe in on both sides.
The car tracks straight now and feels ten times better going into a corner now. The car hasn't had a good alignment on it since I have owned it.
The car tracks straight now and feels ten times better going into a corner now. The car hasn't had a good alignment on it since I have owned it.
That's good to hear. I agree with "mitchntx", however, you can easily open up the slot for the LCA bolt, and get more adjustment. Use a Dremel and be patient; use a die grinder and be careful .....
09-05-2010, 10:39 AM
#6
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I installed Strano's offset bushings and it got me back into specs. I lowered the car in 2006 and the time between then and 2010, I've never had the camber in specs and it would always wear the inside edge of the tire bad. The bushings were a pain in the *** to remove and install. I had to use a ball joint press to get everything out and they don't exactly "burn" out like it says. Without finding the alignment sheet, I believe I started with -1.8 and it dropped down anywhere between -0.5 to -0.9. Car has never tracked straight except when it was stock. The bushings are noisy though and I grease them almost every week.
09-05-2010, 05:30 PM
#7
I installed Strano's offset bushings and it got me back into specs. I lowered the car in 2006 and the time between then and 2010, I've never had the camber in specs and it would always wear the inside edge of the tire bad. The bushings were a pain in the *** to remove and install. I had to use a ball joint press to get everything out and they don't exactly "burn" out like it says. Without finding the alignment sheet, I believe I started with -1.8 and it dropped down anywhere between -0.5 to -0.9. Car has never tracked straight except when it was stock. The bushings are noisy though and I grease them almost every week.
Just as a suggestion, you should aim for about 5.5* caster on the pass. side and 5* on the drivers side. Toe around .04-05* on each side.
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09-05-2010, 06:41 PM
#8
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Let me correct this... The car use to only track straight on flat roads, any indentation or uneven surfaces then it would veer due to the camber being too negative. The toe and caster are set to what you posted but before the offset bushings, it would still veer.
09-06-2010, 06:29 AM
#10
BTW, what size tires do you have on the front of the car? A couple of years ago, I went from the OE 245/50/16s, but on a set of 16x9.5" rims, to 275/40/17s, also on 9.5" rims, and I do think that the wider footprint of the 275s have more inclination to "trammel".
09-12-2010, 07:52 AM
#12
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When you go over slight edges or raised areas in the road and the car gets twitchy and doesn't want to follow where you are steering, like when you are driving in a construction zone and the car wants to follow all the different levels of asphalt on the road and not go exactly where you want.
And just as Mitch and others said, Trammeling is related to Toe and not camber. A lot of toe in makes it turn in very crisply, but you sacrifice stability at highway speeds (i.e. it get's twitchy)
Zero toe or even very slight toe out gives you better high speed stability, but reduces turning ability.
There is no such thing as a free lunch.
