non adj LCA = harsh ride?
#1
non adj LCA = harsh ride?
So i installed a pair of non adj poly/poly LCAs last night on my camaro. I dont have relocation backets yet. I took the car to work this morning to see if i could notice a difference with the LCAs isntalled. The car feels much firmer and smoother around turns and when leaving from a light, but if i hit the slightest crack in the road, it feels and sounds like the rear is going to fall off. The back end is very very harsh. it doesnt feel or sound like the suspension is giving at all. is it possible i over tightened the LCAs so now they are bound? Im not much of a suspension guru when it comes to solving these type of issues.
I tried doing a search but couldnt find anyone who has had the same issue...
I tried doing a search but couldnt find anyone who has had the same issue...
#3
i had the rear sitting on jack stands so it was under load when i installed them. i tightened them the best i could under the car. i felt they were as tight as they were when i took the old LCAs off. its not so much noise coming from the rear, as the ride feels like im sitting on the axle. the slightest bump vibrates through the whole car as if i had hit a massive pot hole...
ill def put the car back up on jackstand tonight and see if i can tighten the bolts any more though.
ill def put the car back up on jackstand tonight and see if i can tighten the bolts any more though.
#4
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I noticed with my PHB that the first drive was rather harsh, but the second time I got in the car (after re-tightening everything which maybe was the only difference) it was very smooth and felt like it did stock (with the extra stability my stock bar didn't have). The way I put it in was actually by backing the car up onto a ramp, that way you have enough room to work and the suspension is always loaded. Tighten it up again and give it another go.
#5
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Did you use the correct bolts? When I got my SS it was making noise and kind of jerking going over bumps. I found that the previous owner had put on BMR LCAs with the factory bolts and the BMR bolts are a size bigger. Replacing the bolts solved that.
#8
alright, well when i got to retighten, ill pull one sid edown and double check how well teh bolts fit into the slots.
the drive home yesterday wasnt as bad as the ride in. but i still heard some noise. im hoping its cuz i didnt tighten them enough. if i get a chance ill jack the car up tonight. took the truck into work today, didnt want to take a chance with the camaro until i knew everything was right.
the drive home yesterday wasnt as bad as the ride in. but i still heard some noise. im hoping its cuz i didnt tighten them enough. if i get a chance ill jack the car up tonight. took the truck into work today, didnt want to take a chance with the camaro until i knew everything was right.
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I assume you went from the stock LCA's with rubber bushings. Keep in mind you now have poly bushings. It's natural you are going FEEL and HEAR the rear end more. The stock LCA's with rubber bushings are more forgiving and quiet.
#11
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There is a reason that most of the cars came with rubber bushings that had notches cut into them.... and that reason is: Ride compliance. Put in urethane bushings which are stiffer than rubber, and don't want to flex or articulate and a stiffer arm that doesn't want to flex or articulate and the ride quality will suffer.
This is why when folks want the suspension to work well in all situations I recommend other things. All poly LCA's are fine for drag racing, but leave somethings to be desired on the street and for handling bumps.
This is why when folks want the suspension to work well in all situations I recommend other things. All poly LCA's are fine for drag racing, but leave somethings to be desired on the street and for handling bumps.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
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#12
thanks for the input guys. I got the LCAs for cheap used, and i thought i had read that Poly/Poly was better for a street driven car then other setups. I could be wrong though. there is a lot of info out there.
Sam, what do you recomend for a street driven car?
ALL, my car is a nice weather car. its driven 3-5 times a week during spring/summer/fall. it sees the strip maybe 2-3 times a year. I was just looking for something to help hook a little better, without losing too much driveability. Not trying to drop a lot of money on the car right now since i bought a house recently. like i said, picked these up for cheap, so i threw them on.
Thanks again for everyones help!
Sam, what do you recomend for a street driven car?
ALL, my car is a nice weather car. its driven 3-5 times a week during spring/summer/fall. it sees the strip maybe 2-3 times a year. I was just looking for something to help hook a little better, without losing too much driveability. Not trying to drop a lot of money on the car right now since i bought a house recently. like i said, picked these up for cheap, so i threw them on.
Thanks again for everyones help!
#13
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You have two good choices.
1. I can set you up with UMI arms that have a roto-joint @ one end that would allow the axle to move freely in the ways you need it to so it works better over bumps.
2. You can go back to stock arms and I can supply you with rubber bushings that are solid instead of fluted (basically 1LE type bushings) that would have much less slop than stock, but still allow more free movement than what you currently have.
Since you drag race, I'd recommend 1 over 2. For example, a set of these: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=96&ModelID=7
1. I can set you up with UMI arms that have a roto-joint @ one end that would allow the axle to move freely in the ways you need it to so it works better over bumps.
2. You can go back to stock arms and I can supply you with rubber bushings that are solid instead of fluted (basically 1LE type bushings) that would have much less slop than stock, but still allow more free movement than what you currently have.
Since you drag race, I'd recommend 1 over 2. For example, a set of these: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=96&ModelID=7
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
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You have two good choices.
1. I can set you up with UMI arms that have a roto-joint @ one end that would allow the axle to move freely in the ways you need it to so it works better over bumps.
2. You can go back to stock arms and I can supply you with rubber bushings that are solid instead of fluted (basically 1LE type bushings) that would have much less slop than stock, but still allow more free movement than what you currently have.
Since you drag race, I'd recommend 1 over 2. For example, a set of these: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=96&ModelID=7
1. I can set you up with UMI arms that have a roto-joint @ one end that would allow the axle to move freely in the ways you need it to so it works better over bumps.
2. You can go back to stock arms and I can supply you with rubber bushings that are solid instead of fluted (basically 1LE type bushings) that would have much less slop than stock, but still allow more free movement than what you currently have.
Since you drag race, I'd recommend 1 over 2. For example, a set of these: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=96&ModelID=7
Ive been thinking of doing PHB and LCA and because it is my DD I was leaning towards poly/poly.
#15
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It is "alright" unless you find the ride to harsh. If you live somewhere the roads are nice and smooth it's going to be fine. But the trouble is when you hit any sort of bump, dip, pothole, tar-strip, rail-road track, whatever with one tire at a different time then the other tire the axle isn't allowed to pivot the way it would want. Consequently you get a jarring or jostling transmitted to the car.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
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It is "alright" unless you find the ride to harsh. If you live somewhere the roads are nice and smooth it's going to be fine. But the trouble is when you hit any sort of bump, dip, pothole, tar-strip, rail-road track, whatever with one tire at a different time then the other tire the axle isn't allowed to pivot the way it would want. Consequently you get a jarring or jostling transmitted to the car.
What about a noise difference between the two?
#17
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I don't know how I can explain it any better online or by PM. Yes the ride quality would be better if the axle was free to move in a rotation. Noise... well roto's are much more quiet than rod-ends, and many report no noise what-so-ever. You have to pick your poison. If you want quiet and the ability to move then stock bushings are what you want.... the issue there is they allow a fore-aft movement that is responsible for much of the wheelhop folks don't want.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
#18
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I don't know how I can explain it any better online or by PM. Yes the ride quality would be better if the axle was free to move in a rotation. Noise... well roto's are much more quiet than rod-ends, and many report no noise what-so-ever. You have to pick your poison. If you want quiet and the ability to move then stock bushings are what you want.... the issue there is they allow a fore-aft movement that is responsible for much of the wheelhop folks don't want.
I think the problem is reading peoples experiences and who knows if the rod ends/rotos/polys have been greased or even installed properly.
Thanks again Sam for all the help on here!
#19
Sam i really appreciate your help and explaining it all for me. I think i have a better understanding now. ill drive these around for awhile and see if i get used to it. if i eventually dont like them, ill probably just upgrade the bushings like you suggested.
#20
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Sure, I hope I helped. If you need to make a change, let me know and we can talk options.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion