If you had your way, how would you improve this..
#1
If you had your way, how would you improve this..
Rolled the whole k frame assembly out today. As you can see I've already got the K frame/upper/lower control arms covered. The only thing I'm likey going to use on the old k frame is the power steering. This is going to be a daily driver/weekend warrior ride (to work is only 7 miles.) Need recommendations on what can be improved, replaced or even re used. Everything you see is all origional parts from 1994. Thanx
#4
ROFL! Ok thanx guys. A bit vague but I'll take it. Got specific parts that you prefer?
Is there a lighter swaybar I can substitute? I just saw new aluminum swaybar brackets with poly bushings somewhere here that was posted by a sponsor. I'll have to look for them.
Is there a lighter street shock/spring package or is the stock stuff just fine?
Is there a lighter swaybar I can substitute? I just saw new aluminum swaybar brackets with poly bushings somewhere here that was posted by a sponsor. I'll have to look for them.
Is there a lighter street shock/spring package or is the stock stuff just fine?
#5
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You can get most of the info from a search, but I'd do:
LS1 brakes (need spindle, rotor, caliper)
Springs and shocks (I have Stranos and Bilsteins and really like it, Konis are very popular though)
New bushings/ball joints everywhere
Maybe sway bars (Stranos hollow bars look really nice)
I just recently did all of that (minus swaybars) on my 93. Nice improvement, and cuts a few pounds.
LS1 brakes (need spindle, rotor, caliper)
Springs and shocks (I have Stranos and Bilsteins and really like it, Konis are very popular though)
New bushings/ball joints everywhere
Maybe sway bars (Stranos hollow bars look really nice)
I just recently did all of that (minus swaybars) on my 93. Nice improvement, and cuts a few pounds.
#7
And because of my posts I've had sponsors, moderators, and some very experienced members hook me up bigtime with my engine build.
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#8
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See, this is why I like responses most of the time instead of searches. Had no idea Strano sway bars where hollow and much lighter even with the search. Thanx!
And because of my posts I've had sponsors, moderators, and some very experienced members hook me up bigtime with my engine build.
And because of my posts I've had sponsors, moderators, and some very experienced members hook me up bigtime with my engine build.
#11
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See, this is why I like responses most of the time instead of searches. Had no idea Strano sway bars where hollow and much lighter even with the search. Thanx!
And because of my posts I've had sponsors, moderators, and some very experienced members hook me up bigtime with my engine build.
And because of my posts I've had sponsors, moderators, and some very experienced members hook me up bigtime with my engine build.
Now, they are not lighter than stock, but they are also significantly bigger, and offer way more stiffness than stock.
A question that should have been asked, what do you want out of the car? Handling? Drag racing? Ride quality?
#12
Should pop up in just about any thread regarding his swaybars. They are even listed on his site as hollow.
Now, they are not lighter than stock, but they are also significantly bigger, and offer way more stiffness than stock.
A question that should have been asked, what do you want out of the car? Handling? Drag racing? Ride quality?
Now, they are not lighter than stock, but they are also significantly bigger, and offer way more stiffness than stock.
A question that should have been asked, what do you want out of the car? Handling? Drag racing? Ride quality?
#13
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While I have nothing against Sam, if work is 7 miles and you're not auto crossing, I would DITCH the front sway bar. . . There is some weight savings and you probably won't notice it. Cleans up the underside of the car a tad too.
Have your upper a-arms bead blasted along w/the springs, paint those, the spindle and blast the lower a-arms, then spray all of it black or use por-15. That would help make the k-member stand out and it would all be clean!
Whats on the engine stand in the corner?
Have your upper a-arms bead blasted along w/the springs, paint those, the spindle and blast the lower a-arms, then spray all of it black or use por-15. That would help make the k-member stand out and it would all be clean!
Whats on the engine stand in the corner?
#14
While I have nothing against Sam, if work is 7 miles and you're not auto crossing, I would DITCH the front sway bar. . . There is some weight savings and you probably won't notice it. Cleans up the underside of the car a tad too.
Have your upper a-arms bead blasted along w/the springs, paint those, the spindle and blast the lower a-arms, then spray all of it black or use por-15. That would help make the k-member stand out and it would all be clean!
Whats on the engine stand in the corner?
Have your upper a-arms bead blasted along w/the springs, paint those, the spindle and blast the lower a-arms, then spray all of it black or use por-15. That would help make the k-member stand out and it would all be clean!
Whats on the engine stand in the corner?
I have new BMR upper and lower control arms. One of them is in the pic to the left. How did you not notice that but notice the engine stand underneath the table?! lol BTW the engine stand had my block on it, now the machine shop has it.
I'll take your advise on bead blasting the springs though until I recoup more funds. That and I'll try to get my hands on LS1 brakes with the spindles.
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To each their own, I did that (commute to work is 10 miles each way) and noticed a pretty big difference. Granted, my commute isn't in a straight line. Needless to say, after about a month, I put the swabar back on and fell in love with my car all over again!