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Suggetions for Autocross Brake Redo this Winter.

Old 09-29-2010, 10:26 AM
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Default Suggetions for Autocross Brake Redo this Winter.

Honestly looking for the best Price I can do for redoing my breaks this winter(98 Z28). Planning on running STU next year.

I've been thinking of doing NAPA Ultra Premiums with HPS Pads. Any other pad brands I should research and look into? I was also looking at the some of the packages Sam offers as well.

Any fellow autocrossing have any suggestions? I'm willing to pay little more for a longer lasting product combo.

Should I spend the cash on braided brake lines, would it be well worth it? What fluid do you guys recommend?

Thanks Rob
Old 09-29-2010, 11:36 AM
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Brembo Blanks for rotors
Hawk HP+ or HPS for brake pads
braided brake lines will firm up the feel
ATE Super Blue for brake fluid
Old 09-29-2010, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by cookba
Brembo Blanks for rotors
Hawk HP+ or HPS for brake pads
braided brake lines will firm up the feel
ATE Super Blue for brake fluid
Originally Posted by cookba
Brembo Blanks for rotors
Hawk HP+ or HPS for brake pads
braided brake lines will firm up the feel
ATE Super Blue for brake fluid
Originally Posted by cookba
Brembo Blanks for rotors
Hawk HP+ or HPS for brake pads
braided brake lines will firm up the feel
ATE Super Blue for brake fluid
Originally Posted by cookba
Brembo Blanks for rotors
Hawk HP+ or HPS for brake pads
braided brake lines will firm up the feel
ATE Super Blue for brake fluid
Originally Posted by cookba
Brembo Blanks for rotors
Hawk HP+ or HPS for brake pads
braided brake lines will firm up the feel
ATE Super Blue for brake fluid
Originally Posted by cookba
Brembo Blanks for rotors
Hawk HP+ or HPS for brake pads
braided brake lines will firm up the feel
ATE Super Blue for brake fluid
I have this setup right now and it is hard to beat. I don't autocross (although I plan to), but drive hard around town.

I am doing the CTS-V mod. I call it a mod because I don't consider it an upgrade (no personal experience, but I don't see why you would need better than what we have). The stock setup is more than sufficient, and likely better balanced. I am doing the mod for appearance purposes.
Old 09-29-2010, 12:20 PM
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I'm happy to help, I do think there are better options these days than the Brembo blanks (which have not actually been Brembo's in a long time).

I have inexpensive rotors that weigh less. I have the ATE rotors which weigh the same but are coated where the Brembo's are not. I have Racing Brake rotors (same weight as ATE, etc), but as coated and the fronts are directionally vaned and use a tougher alloy meant for more track oriented use.

I of course have pads, lines, fluids of various types and a few kits with those things all included. Or we can mix and match.
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Old 09-29-2010, 12:29 PM
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I have had great luck with my Napa Ultra Premiums, HPS, stainless lines, and ATE SuperBlue
Old 09-29-2010, 01:13 PM
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So will Racing Brake rotors increase the life of my pads since they expel heat better?

Are HPS pads the best choice for a solid breaking for autocross and decent life?

I really only drive the car 2-3k miles a year.


What about the HP Plus pads, aren't they made for more racing intentions and better with all the heat cycling?

Last edited by Necron; 09-29-2010 at 02:07 PM.
Old 09-29-2010, 03:11 PM
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I love my Hawk HPS'. I love my brembo blanks even more. They won't warp. I've tried.
Old 09-29-2010, 03:20 PM
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How much more better stopping power and how much more rotor wear do the Hawk HP+ or HPS have over ceramic pads? Anyone have any quantifiable metrics?
Old 09-29-2010, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Necron
So will Racing Brake rotors increase the life of my pads since they expel heat better?

Are HPS pads the best choice for a solid breaking for autocross and decent life?

I really only drive the car 2-3k miles a year.


What about the HP Plus pads, aren't they made for more racing intentions and better with all the heat cycling?
If you are in a track situation then yes, the Racing Brake rotors do make for longer lasting pads as they expel heat more efficiently.

On thing I've also found with slotted rotors is that they get less grooved up.... By that I mean the radial grooves that sort of make the rotor look like an old record as the slots allow dirt a place to go instead of getting embedded into the brake pad and scoring the rotor.

HP Plus pads are not race pads. They are street pads--really aggressive street pads. But they are not part of Hawk's Motorsports line.
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Old 09-29-2010, 03:52 PM
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Ceramics... I had some on a 2007 Mustang, and hated them. In fact I had a hard time getting the ABS to engage on that car from 70 mph *with* -2 camber! I don't have a friction coefficient on those.

HPS have a friction level of about .42, HP Plus have a friction level just shy of .50 (which is pretty freaking high and they have what I'd call race level braking but they aren't up to the task for heat generated on a track. Also they are pretty abrupt, very on/off and not nearly as easy to modulate as HPS's.
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Old 09-29-2010, 04:55 PM
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Well I like the sound and the price of HPS better.

What is the advantages or disadvantages of braided brake lines?
Old 09-29-2010, 05:06 PM
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Advantage... they replace old more flexible and more expandable stock lines, stock lines don't last forever--the rubber cracks, the fiberglass braid inside expands, and pedal feel suffers.

No real disadvantage other than cost.
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Old 09-29-2010, 08:30 PM
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Stainless steel braided brake lines were one of my first modifications -- love the improved pedal feel -- more positive feedback with the brake pedal, and supposedly less stopping distance (I have not measured this). Also, the ABS feels better engaged and more precise.

One negative is in the unlikely case they pop, it would be more of a dramatic event than the stock lines.

Take your time installing them, and be sure to use the proper tools -- the connections are somewhat delicate.

Originally Posted by Necron
What is the advantages or disadvantages of braided brake lines?
Old 09-29-2010, 09:17 PM
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Thanks for the good information guys. Always enjoy the very technical answers Sam, like how you get right to the point.

I still want to do some more research on rotors and see what my best bang for the buck will be.

Should I even consider your Best Brake rotor, or will those not hold up?

A lot of options and a lot of different price ranges.
Old 09-30-2010, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Necron
Thanks for the good information guys. Always enjoy the very technical answers Sam, like how you get right to the point.

I still want to do some more research on rotors and see what my best bang for the buck will be.

Should I even consider your Best Brake rotor, or will those not hold up?

A lot of options and a lot of different price ranges.
The Best rotors will stop the car as hard as anything else of the same size. Rotors are pretty similar in the fact they are metal and get acted upon/clamped by the brake pads. There is some difference in metalurgy, which has more to do with longevity, and durability than stopping power. Also there are differences in vaning, some cool better. And there are differences in coatings and the faces (blank, slotted, elliptical slots even drilled-though I don't recommend those).

Depends on your definition of bang for the buck. To many, that simply means "cheap". If you are truly comparing price vs. the details, then right now at the sale prices the Racing Brake rotors are the best bang. $375 when they had been $520/set? No way would I do ATE's vs these at the current pricing (just telling you what I think).
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Old 09-30-2010, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by libertyforall1776
Stainless steel braided brake lines were one of my first modifications

One negative is in the unlikely case they pop, it would be more of a dramatic event than the stock lines.

Take your time installing them, and be sure to use the proper tools -- the connections are somewhat delicate.
I disagree, respectfully. If a brake line were to break, it breaks. That's sort of like saying that if a concrete dam were to fail it would somehow be worse than an Earthen dam holding the same amount of water.
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Old 09-30-2010, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
The Best rotors will stop the car as hard as anything else of the same size. Rotors are pretty similar in the fact they are metal and get acted upon/clamped by the brake pads. There is some difference in metalurgy, which has more to do with longevity, and durability than stopping power. Also there are differences in vaning, some cool better. And there are differences in coatings and the faces (blank, slotted, elliptical slots even drilled-though I don't recommend those).

Depends on your definition of bang for the buck. To many, that simply means "cheap". If you are truly comparing price vs. the details, then right now at the sale prices the Racing Brake rotors are the best bang. $375 when they had been $520/set? No way would I do ATE's vs these at the current pricing (just telling you what I think).
How long will this current pricing last Sam?

Like I said I'm willing to pay more for a much better product, especially if they will promote a longer lasting Pad.
Old 09-30-2010, 01:17 PM
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Until I have no more of those in stock. I have about 5 sets left, started with 20.
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Old 09-30-2010, 08:49 PM
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Well, I would advise all to do a little homework regardless, for safety's sake:
http://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/Brake_Lines

Out of curiosity, have you ever had stock or SS lines fail on you? I would be curious to hear your experiences...

Originally Posted by Sam Strano
I disagree, respectfully. If a brake line were to break, it breaks. That's sort of like saying that if a concrete dam were to fail it would somehow be worse than an Earthen dam holding the same amount of water.
Old 09-30-2010, 08:59 PM
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Aren't your brakes separated front/rear? I can't imagine having a line fail and having all of your braking out within an instant.

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