Those who have installed the SJM ABS delete
#21
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I had a heck of a time using the tool that came with the kit, the kit itself is a quality piece though. I got the same type of tool but from Carquest and it was like night and day and it worked great without a problem. There might have been something defective with the tool that came with mine or something because it would not flare the lines correctly at all.
#22
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where are the stock braided lines? ant chance you have any better pix?
looking into ordering someones kit by end of the week.
thanks
Dan
#23
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The tool is made in China, which most are that are under 50.00. Unfortunately, not too many things are made in USA anymore especially at an inexpensive rate. If I had my choice, I'd only offer a USA made tool but it would be unrealistic to most to consider purchasing our ABS delete kit for 139.99 and spending and easy 75-150.00 dollars MORE on a flaring tool they won't ever use again.
I'll disagree with you on the flaring die (adapter). It is hardened tool steel, much harder than the tubing being flared. We've got a few different sample flaring kits that we've accumulated over time some USA, some not. The flaring die seem to be simillar hardness (it is hardened tool steel). The difference between ours and a high-end flaring kit is mainly the flaring bar which is noticeably different.
If a person is using the flaring die correctly, it will last many many times. You only need to flare a few lines to install our kit...which is the sole purpose of purchasing the tool with our ABS delete kit. The flaring bar should actually fail before the flaring die. Even if one was only able to produce 10 flares, that is far more that you need for our ABS delete kit that you're installing.
I'm not trying to make excuses, I've mentioned, the tool is not a high-end tool, but it does the job necessary to install our ABS delete kit at an affordable rate. That is all the tool is intended for. If you need it for other jobs, it should realistically work fine. As mentioned, its not intended for professional use though.
I'll disagree with you on the flaring die (adapter). It is hardened tool steel, much harder than the tubing being flared. We've got a few different sample flaring kits that we've accumulated over time some USA, some not. The flaring die seem to be simillar hardness (it is hardened tool steel). The difference between ours and a high-end flaring kit is mainly the flaring bar which is noticeably different.
If a person is using the flaring die correctly, it will last many many times. You only need to flare a few lines to install our kit...which is the sole purpose of purchasing the tool with our ABS delete kit. The flaring bar should actually fail before the flaring die. Even if one was only able to produce 10 flares, that is far more that you need for our ABS delete kit that you're installing.
I'm not trying to make excuses, I've mentioned, the tool is not a high-end tool, but it does the job necessary to install our ABS delete kit at an affordable rate. That is all the tool is intended for. If you need it for other jobs, it should realistically work fine. As mentioned, its not intended for professional use though.
My experience with SJM was good, however the flaring and tool was extremely frustrating. Steve was more than helpful with trying to get my setup to work and even supplied me with an additional line at no cost. But flaring these lines inside the car was very difficult and frustrating for me. I failed.
#24
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I like a few others had a very difficult time with the tool as it would not hold the line securely while trying to flare it. Not the easiest thing to do with the motor in either. I have many years of experience as well as the helper I had runs the local speed shop , so no newbies to this procedure.
Other than the issues mentioned, the kit was/is nice and straight forward to use...we just needed better luck I guess.
Other than the issues mentioned, the kit was/is nice and straight forward to use...we just needed better luck I guess.
#27
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99 What can I help you with, specifically which portion are you confused with? The whole kit is pretty much drop in place. Just take it out of the box, the prop valve is already connected on the line, just temporarily mount it so you can mark the positioning of the valve. The other line, screw the line lock and line to the master the same way...then mark positioning.
Feel free to email or pm me.
Steve
Feel free to email or pm me.
Steve