Hello, I was just about to order up the SJM ABS delete and line lock kit when I remembered hearing some problems about the double flare tool that comes with. I've heard great things about the quality and fit of the kit just problems with the DFT. So I was wondering what tool you guys used. Does Autozone have a decent rental or anything?

 

I've never heard anything bad about SJM's DFT. I used a Kent Moore one from work that worked great. Autozone may rent them out.

 

I was fortunate enough to be able to afford the Mastercool hydraulic flare tool kit, so I used that. The thing that helped most, though, was making sure the cuts made to the lines before flaring were perfectly square.

 

that **** is so hard to use with the motor in the engine. I broke the die and I had to buy a whole new kit from autozone, which was better than the one I got from them(more die and a case). Just buy your own double flair kit.

 

To give a bit of clarity to folks reading...Our double flare tool kits are not high-end kits. As a 20.00 option, what more could one expect. The tool does the job that is necessary. It's intent is not to break the bank on a tool most will probably never use again. One thing that is slightly different with our tool is we mill the inner portion of the flaring bar to accommodate both metric and standard tubing. If you have access then there is no need to purchase the tool. We try to keep it as simple and cost effective as possible to the end user.

I'd suggest if you wanted the tool to use professionally, spending 100+ isn't unreasonable. Creating a double flare is something most probably have never performed. There is a technical learning curve where some will find it easy while others will not. For example, since I'm very familiar with creating flares, I could use our double flare tool and make 50 flares rather easily...and still usable for more flares. We have an instructional video for our customers who purchase our double flare tool showing how to create a flare in 90 seconds using the same kit that is being purchased.

The above poster obviously did not have the same positive results as his flaring die broke. It probably broke as the tubing end was not perpendicular to the tube run. The die went on an angle and snapped the tang off as it was pressed inward. The dies are hardened steel....most dies from kits on the market are pretty much the same...even the higher dollar hand-held units.

Good luck to all.

Steve
Engineer
SJM Manufacturing Inc.

 

Hey Steve, I didn't mean any kind of disrespect towards you. You are exactly right, it is a $20 option. It's not like it is some $100-$300 pro tool. That is why I was wondering if say Autozone had a good rental that anyone had good luck with. If not that I suppose I will order my kit with your tool and just make damn sure I use it proper.

 

We used the tool provided by SJM and it worked flawlessly. Like Steve said, I think there is learning curve involved and those with experience will find the provided tool adequate.

 

No I understood where you were coming from. No disrespect taken at all. I wanted to give you and others a bit of clarity and background regarding the tool.

 

Good to hear! Thanks for the feedback! Our wheels look awesome on your car as well. Good choice :-)

 

SJM's tool is 20$ option. You get what you pay for. It is made in China and after several uses the flaring adapter was worn out.

Save your 20 and get a good flaring tool or take it to someone to do the flares for you with a high quality tool.

 

The tool is made in China, which most are that are under 50.00. Unfortunately, not too many things are made in USA anymore especially at an inexpensive rate. If I had my choice, I'd only offer a USA made tool but it would be unrealistic to most to consider purchasing our ABS delete kit for 139.99 and spending and easy 75-150.00 dollars MORE on a flaring tool they won't ever use again.

I'll disagree with you on the flaring die (adapter). It is hardened tool steel, much harder than the tubing being flared. We've got a few different sample flaring kits that we've accumulated over time some USA, some not. The flaring die seem to be simillar hardness (it is hardened tool steel). The difference between ours and a high-end flaring kit is mainly the flaring bar which is noticeably different.

If a person is using the flaring die correctly, it will last many many times. You only need to flare a few lines to install our kit...which is the sole purpose of purchasing the tool with our ABS delete kit. The flaring bar should actually fail before the flaring die. Even if one was only able to produce 10 flares, that is far more that you need for our ABS delete kit that you're installing.

I'm not trying to make excuses, I've mentioned, the tool is not a high-end tool, but it does the job necessary to install our ABS delete kit at an affordable rate. That is all the tool is intended for. If you need it for other jobs, it should realistically work fine. As mentioned, its not intended for professional use though.

 

autozone does rent a flair set. I never took it back. haha.

 

Is it a higher end tool? Should I just buy the one with the ABS kit?

 

i didnt have any luck with the one that came with the kit,when you buy a tool for 20 bucks,you cant ask for much.The problem is the china made cheap tools are inconsistant in quality.One might work and the next may not be as good.Thats why some have decent luck with the tool and some dont.I have plenty of experience in flaring and my normal flare tool was lost,so i order that one and it didnt work out.it may be worth it to get a nice tool to do this,as there is not much line to work with,so you dont want to mess it up.Other then the tool the kit is awesome,and is highly recommended

 

redtail, thank you for your feedback. What didn’t work out with the tool?

ShortChevy, Rentals are typically beat up or worn unless if you get lucky and they have a newer one. What typically wears is the flaring bar. Once the internal grooves on the flaring bar are worn, the tubing will slip making it more difficult to create a flare. About the only thing you'll see go wrong with the die is they will break from incorrect use before they wear out.

AutoZone probably rents the ones they sell which are probably chinese made …not much is made in USA these days (it's probably the returned units people bring back). I believe they sell theirs for around 30.00.

I feel ours works fine for what you need it for. All the inexpensive ones are pretty much the same. If ours didn't work, we wouldn't offer it. I’m not sure why redtail didn’t have good results with the double flare tool. I would be interested to know.

 

all the inexpensive ones are the same. There is no mid level tool. you either get a crappy one or spend alot of money on a really good one. I got the job done with the crappy one. You just have to make sure everything is straight.

 

the clamp wouldnt hold the line tight enough,so as the flare tool tried to flare the line it would just push the line through the clamp.I think it did work on the first line but started slipping on the second.Wasnt a big deal i rented an autozone one and got her done

 

For future reference (to anyone else reading as well), if the clamp does not hold tight enough and the tube slips, you've now extruded the tube to a smaller diameter of which it is very difficult to re-flare. The internal threads of the flaring bar need to be sharp to hold the tube. If the internal threads are marred or damaged from the extrusion process, the flaring bar will be very difficult to use.

My suggestion is once the tube is extruded, cut the tube shorter and start over. Another suggestion I have is to not use a tube cutter. Most have the style used on plumbing anyways...which is probably their father’s father and dull. Not to mention do not work well on 3/16” tubing as they are not designed to be used on tubing that small. Usually the cutting wheel will bottom out on the rollers. What those will do as they cut is actually shrink the tubing to a smaller diameter and you'll be handicapped to start regarding tube clamping.

 

anyone have pix of the SJM kit installed? also, do i still need to buy the burkhart chassis billet piece?

 

Here's a shot from a top view of one installed.

You do not need to purchase anything else to install the kit. Our kit completely removes the entire ABS controller AND bracket for the cleanest installation and lightest configuration.