Another Brake Problem thread
I let the MC go dry so I have bench bleed it. I have bleed the entire system with the motive power bleeder and have also manually bleed them with my wifes helps.
1. Still has a soft pedal.
I don't see anymore air coming out and I did hit the calipers with a mallet to dislodge any air trapped while manual bleeding.
2. Front brakes grind and pulse when stopping. Sounds like whenever the slots go through the pads is when I am getting the pulsing and grinding. I didn't feel the pedal pulsing just a pulse grinding sound from the front brakes. This is on any moderate to heavy breaking.
3. I noticed that the pass rear caliper would move (flex) alot when my wife was pressing the pedal down. Didn't notice any of the other calipers moving near this much. It wasn't the caliper just sliding on the pins it was like something was broken or loose. I did check and all bolts are torqued to specs on bracket and guide pin bolts.
So I don't really know where to start. Don't know what I did wrong or if I have bad parts. Do I have bad calipers, MC? Do I need new pads to go with the turned rotors, new rotors and pads? Any suggestions welcomed.

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How did you bench bleed the MC? On the car or in a vise?
If you left it on the car, the angle of the mount is such that a small air bubble could be trapped in the very end of the cylinder. Also, plunging the brake pedal won't give you 100% stroke at the MC.
Best way to bench bleed is in a vice with the ***-end tilted up and completely plunge the piston. Shouldn't take but a few strokes.
Caliper movement at the end is not that big of a deal. You might have a slightly spread caliper and it's racking the pads back and forth. As long as it's moving along the guide pins and not mechanically moving anywhere else.
Spread is not good, but not the end of the world. The pads will wear strange and you won;t get the mileage out of them you might otherwise. But it's certainly not a deal breaker.
I wuld look at getting a replacement caliper and swap it out next pad change.
How did you bench bleed the MC? On the car or in a vise?
If you left it on the car, the angle of the mount is such that a small air bubble could be trapped in the very end of the cylinder. Also, plunging the brake pedal won't give you 100% stroke at the MC.
Best way to bench bleed is in a vice with the ***-end tilted up and completely plunge the piston. Shouldn't take but a few strokes.
Caliper movement at the end is not that big of a deal. You might have a slightly spread caliper and it's racking the pads back and forth. As long as it's moving along the guide pins and not mechanically moving anywhere else.
Spread is not good, but not the end of the world. The pads will wear strange and you won;t get the mileage out of them you might otherwise. But it's certainly not a deal breaker.
I wuld look at getting a replacement caliper and swap it out next pad change.
I bench bleed the MC in a vise. Tried to have it as level as possible and ran lines back into it while I bleed it. all air was out of it when I went to reinstall.
Oh and yes the lines are feeding the correct brakes.






