help on centering the rear?
help on centering the rear? I just recently did some suspension mods and added new wheels to the car. These are the mods...
UMI Adjustable Lower Control Arms
UMI Subframe Connectors (bolt in)
I have a UMI Adjustable Panhard Bar. Dont remember the exact part# but its 1 of these just like the one in the link....
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...kpbqs5270tdtl1
After installing the LCA's & SFC's, the rear doesnt look centered at all. Now yea, im going by visual appearance not actuall measurements but even visually. You can tell that the passengerside is further in the wheel well then the driverside. Ive tried adjusting it with the panhard bar but im honestly only seeing the driverside wheel move in/out when im doing that. Im not seeing any movement from the passengerside. Idk why i started with the passengerside LCA/SFC install but i did. It wasnt till i read the directions that told me to start with the driverside. If i removed the LCA on the driverside, would it help shift the rear to the passengerside and helping it move more outward?
Would this affect ride quality? I feel like my rides gotten worse, and feels like its coming from the passengerside. Like it takes bumps worse then the driverside. Also hearing a knocking noise but thats probably due to the bolts loosening up a little. Im going to add some locktite to the bolts this coming weekend and work on getting the rear more centered.
How do i go about fixing this issue, without going to a shop for an alignment?
I wanna do other suspension mods 1st before i do that. I dont want to go for an alignment now and then go again later because i added more suspension mods.
UMI Adjustable Lower Control Arms
UMI Subframe Connectors (bolt in)
I have a UMI Adjustable Panhard Bar. Dont remember the exact part# but its 1 of these just like the one in the link....
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...kpbqs5270tdtl1
After installing the LCA's & SFC's, the rear doesnt look centered at all. Now yea, im going by visual appearance not actuall measurements but even visually. You can tell that the passengerside is further in the wheel well then the driverside. Ive tried adjusting it with the panhard bar but im honestly only seeing the driverside wheel move in/out when im doing that. Im not seeing any movement from the passengerside. Idk why i started with the passengerside LCA/SFC install but i did. It wasnt till i read the directions that told me to start with the driverside. If i removed the LCA on the driverside, would it help shift the rear to the passengerside and helping it move more outward?
Would this affect ride quality? I feel like my rides gotten worse, and feels like its coming from the passengerside. Like it takes bumps worse then the driverside. Also hearing a knocking noise but thats probably due to the bolts loosening up a little. Im going to add some locktite to the bolts this coming weekend and work on getting the rear more centered.
How do i go about fixing this issue, without going to a shop for an alignment?
I wanna do other suspension mods 1st before i do that. I dont want to go for an alignment now and then go again later because i added more suspension mods.
Hello,
When you installed the lower control arms did you make sure they were set to factory length? We preset them here during assembly however they can move during shipping a little or sometimes customers like to screw them in and out and play with them
The rear ends do not sit centered from the factory so if your control arms are set to factory length the rear end would be in the same place as you started. Starting on the passenger side rather than drivers won't matter. But since you have adjustable control arms you can center the rear end, take your measurements from a frame spot and not the rear bumper or fender.
As for the noise, when you install the SFC's it will take a lot for torque to tighten the front control arm bolt since the SFC wraps around it. Because of this design you need to compress the SFC mount and control arm mount before it tightens against the bushing. Tighten the front control arm bolts extra tight and your clunking noise should be gone.
I hope that helps,
Ryan
When you installed the lower control arms did you make sure they were set to factory length? We preset them here during assembly however they can move during shipping a little or sometimes customers like to screw them in and out and play with them
The rear ends do not sit centered from the factory so if your control arms are set to factory length the rear end would be in the same place as you started. Starting on the passenger side rather than drivers won't matter. But since you have adjustable control arms you can center the rear end, take your measurements from a frame spot and not the rear bumper or fender.
As for the noise, when you install the SFC's it will take a lot for torque to tighten the front control arm bolt since the SFC wraps around it. Because of this design you need to compress the SFC mount and control arm mount before it tightens against the bushing. Tighten the front control arm bolts extra tight and your clunking noise should be gone.
I hope that helps,
Ryan
The rear is one solid piece. If your adjusting the panhard it should move the whole thing. Have the rear hanging in the air and then adjust it. set the car down and see how it looks. It doesnt make sense at all why your only seeing the one side move in or out.
Hello,
When you installed the lower control arms did you make sure they were set to factory length? We preset them here during assembly however they can move during shipping a little or sometimes customers like to screw them in and out and play with them
The rear ends do not sit centered from the factory so if your control arms are set to factory length the rear end would be in the same place as you started. Starting on the passenger side rather than drivers won't matter. But since you have adjustable control arms you can center the rear end, take your measurements from a frame spot and not the rear bumper or fender.
As for the noise, when you install the SFC's it will take a lot for torque to tighten the front control arm bolt since the SFC wraps around it. Because of this design you need to compress the SFC mount and control arm mount before it tightens against the bushing. Tighten the front control arm bolts extra tight and your clunking noise should be gone.
I hope that helps,
Ryan
When you installed the lower control arms did you make sure they were set to factory length? We preset them here during assembly however they can move during shipping a little or sometimes customers like to screw them in and out and play with them
The rear ends do not sit centered from the factory so if your control arms are set to factory length the rear end would be in the same place as you started. Starting on the passenger side rather than drivers won't matter. But since you have adjustable control arms you can center the rear end, take your measurements from a frame spot and not the rear bumper or fender.
As for the noise, when you install the SFC's it will take a lot for torque to tighten the front control arm bolt since the SFC wraps around it. Because of this design you need to compress the SFC mount and control arm mount before it tightens against the bushing. Tighten the front control arm bolts extra tight and your clunking noise should be gone.
I hope that helps,
Ryan
Ill go back this weekend and re-tighten everything down. Take the car out for a quick spin, see if the problem continues.
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Verdad Gallardo NO, the rear should NOT be hanging, as the rear moves in an arc as it rises and falls, therefore if it's hanging, you won't get an accurate measurement. The rear CAN be on jackstands, because as you adjust the phb, it will move the body in relation to the axle.
in the end i really dont care Either way, the car HAS to have the suspension loaded, whether it be on the ground, a drive-on lift, ramps, jack stands, whatever, in order to get an accurate measurement....
well no duh, i didnt say in order to get a measurement. I was just saying how to adjust it in order to get the bolt holes to line up after you make an adjustment. i didnt know if he had a on car or single adjustable phb or not so i assumed the latter. read my first post again.
That is most likely your problem. When putting the lower control arms on one will go in fine and the other you'll have to push the rearend to line up the hole. You don't adjust the LCA longer or shorter to accomadate the rearend.
^^ Ahh ok, so how do i go about fixing that then?
Remove it, line it up back to stock length (using the stock lca to make the measurement) and push on the rear to get it to line up?
Remove it, line it up back to stock length (using the stock lca to make the measurement) and push on the rear to get it to line up?
^ Yea i get you, i need to put some locktite on the bolts anyways. Ill probably just do the passengerside (as far as removing the lca and adjusting it to stock length) since its the one im hearing the clunk/noise from.
I adjusted the rear, probably not centered exactly but it looks alot better then before. Each side looks to be fairly close, ill do some measurements on it tomorrow to be exact. It got dark on me.
I adjusted the rear, probably not centered exactly but it looks alot better then before. Each side looks to be fairly close, ill do some measurements on it tomorrow to be exact. It got dark on me.
tape & string I just taped a piece of string on the quarter panel (centered to the rim) with a washer for weight and jacked up the car till the car just starts to lift, place jack stands under the rear for safty ((barely touching)) rear and adjust the pan bar till it measures even on each side. Easy as **** to do!
