Nastyc4

iTrader: (13)

Just wanted to ask if this sounded right.

I'm going to :

Remove old master, install new master full of fresh fluid.

Start from the rear pass and vacc pump bleeder till I see fresh fluid while topping up master.

Repeat for rear l then front r and then front l.

What does bench bleeding involve? How would I go about cycling my abs? Read that I could raise the rear go over 5mph and let it cycle?


Input is appreciated.. Off to grab a coffee and get started

CamdLS1'00SS

iTrader: (12)

youve got the right idea. bench bleeding is when you stick it in a vice and manually bleed the master on the bench. thereby minimizing air pockets coming from the master. ive accomplished this with a long large tip phillips screwdriver to pump the piston and an assistant cracking the bleeder. make sure you can use those palstic pipe caps to block the brake line holes so it doesnt **** out. starting from the farthest bleeder from the master and work your way to the closest. RR, LR, RF, LF. good luck!

Nastyc4

iTrader: (13)

I don't have a vice at my new place and nor do I have plugs for the line ends. I was thinking to just fill it and install it since I'm flushing all the fluid out anyways from the whole system

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

you can bleed the master on the car......just make sure its air free before you hook up the lines

Nastyc4

iTrader: (13)

Well I ended up blaeeding till fluid was clear from each wheel. Stuff was seriously black. Off to drive it... Hopefully I have brakes or I won't make it back to respond lol...

Here's the black stuff..

baalic

iTrader: (8)

Quick but relevant hijack.. If bleeding brakes on a 97 s10 with drums do I need to bleed drums also?

Nastyc4

iTrader: (13)

I would imagine so because you're still using hydraulic pressure to force the shoes against the drum.

CamdLS1'00SS

iTrader: (12)

@ baalic YES...theres a bleeder on the back side of the drums above the axle tubes that likes to break if its rusty...be ready to disassemble your rear brakes to replace a master cylinder. @ nastyc4 and howd the bleeding turnout? got brakes?

Nastyc4

iTrader: (13)

I do indeed !!! WOW my brakes are line new woooooohoooooo!!!!!

I pulled out nearly 2l of fluid to make sure I pulled out all the old stuff and to try and get all the air out from the master and at least so far it seemed to have worked. Last night it's dropped like 3 inches of snow from the time I started to when I finished so it made it easy to get the abs to go nuts although I'm not sure it helped much.

My pedal is really firm and doesn't drop to the floor anymore. I'm not sure if it was the old fluid which was def contaminated (master cap boot was swollen beyond fit) or the master but replacing both seems to have worked wonders so far.

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

IF the old fluid which was contaminated (master cap boot was swollen beyond fit)
why was fluid contaminated ? I do not think it would be contaminated only because of age, if it was contaminated to the point master cap boot was swollen beyond fit I would think all the wheel cyl would be contaminated also
just my .02' Johnny

Nastyc4

iTrader: (13)

I think you are right. That is why I chose to replace the master and all the fluid in the whole system. I could have flushed the fluid only but I figured the master probably has rubber seals that got contaminated as well so I should replace that too.

I believe the previous owner put wrong fluid in the original master. Ca was a California car and when I was driving it home over the border i stopped to check the fluids and surprisingly the brake master boot was so swollen i had to fold it under the cap to get it back on.