Power Steering Rack Bolt... wtf...
05-01-2011, 11:26 PM
#21
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That's the route I went, I cut about half way through it by hand, said eff this, stuck the nut back on and broke the bolt with an impact wrench 
I rebuilt the rack and installed the bolt facing upwards this time 
I rebuilt the rack and installed the bolt facing upwards this time 
05-02-2011, 02:01 PM
#23
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how hard is it to replace that top seal on the r&p? i have same problem and not sure if its easier/cheaper to rebuild or buy a whole rack?
o and leadfoot4, for the torque arm i discovered going in from the top where the transmission boot is, allows great access to that third top bolt... i got a thread about it floating around the main page
o and leadfoot4, for the torque arm i discovered going in from the top where the transmission boot is, allows great access to that third top bolt... i got a thread about it floating around the main page
05-02-2011, 02:02 PM
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how hard is it to replace that top seal on the r&p? i have same problem and not sure if its easier/cheaper to rebuild or buy a whole rack?
o and leadfoot4, for the torque arm i discovered going in from the top where the transmission boot is, allows great access to that third top bolt... i got a thread about it floating around the main page
o and leadfoot4, for the torque arm i discovered going in from the top where the transmission boot is, allows great access to that third top bolt... i got a thread about it floating around the main page
05-02-2011, 10:27 PM
#26
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It wasn't super difficult, I got the rebuild/seal kits from rock auto for $20 for both the power steering pump and rack (I think the one for the rack was like $13 or something). To replace the input shaft seal on the rack you basically just have to remove a snap ring (on top of the seal) remove the dust cover from the other end of the pinion body or whatever you want to call it, then you just have to remove a nut, tap on the threaded end and the whole pinion and seal just come out. It's pretty easy to figure out when you're actually looking at it. There's one seal hiding down inside the pinion body bore that's kind of hard to see and a little bit of a pain to get out, but that was really the only 'difficult' part. I got it all back together and driving and it's not leaking yet so I guess I did alright. It was worth a shot to save like $200 though lol. Just keep track of everything and where it goes and you'll be alright. The hardest part for me was getting the damn dust cover off 
Let me know if you have any questions and I'll try my best to help out, but I'm no expert haha.
Let me know if you have any questions and I'll try my best to help out, but I'm no expert haha.
08-03-2011, 01:53 AM
#28
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I am preparing to do this in few weeks. Knowing I have to cut the driver's side bolt, I would like to buy the bolt in advance. Does anyone have the bolt size, pitch, and lengh?
Thanks in advance,
Thanks in advance,
08-03-2011, 01:17 PM
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I'm also looking to make this repair on my R&P, it's leaking pretty good. Where is everyone getting their replacement or rebuild kits? Rock Auto as posted above?
11-03-2011, 09:03 PM
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I just changed my rack. Pulling the left motor mount bolt wasn't that bad, just had to pull the alternator out of the way.
I'd wager that it took me less time doing it that way, than it would have had I (gonetothehardwarestoreforanewhacksawbladeto) cut the bolt and (gonetothehardwarestoreagainforanewboltto) put a new one in upside down.
It was cheaper that way, that much is certain.
I'd wager that it took me less time doing it that way, than it would have had I (gonetothehardwarestoreforanewhacksawbladeto) cut the bolt and (gonetothehardwarestoreagainforanewboltto) put a new one in upside down.
It was cheaper that way, that much is certain.
