On the Road to Removing the Shock Towers
#42
Now put another red bar across both tops against the firewall before doing so weld a backing plate to it.....then rivet all the way across.
You'll get more strenght from the double x's i mentioned before tho...i would think you'd want some overkill. I think the double x's would help take some of the weight off the firewall which you are also technically not truly welding up to. so its just an attempt to balance the stress points and distribute.
You'll get more strenght from the double x's i mentioned before tho...i would think you'd want some overkill. I think the double x's would help take some of the weight off the firewall which you are also technically not truly welding up to. so its just an attempt to balance the stress points and distribute.
#43
You could doubleX into an enclosed rectangle and the rear of those rectangle go flush against the firewall as well with backing plates+riveted....and call it a day. That would be the most strength....and skip the top bar...altho that would help keep center.
#48
I not too concerned about weight. This isn't a race car, it's just a cruiser. I might take it out to the local car cruise Sat night.
The thing is I'm just a shadetree mechanic. I don't have a shop or even a garage. I'm doing all the work in my front yard, so a full tube frame just isn't possible.
Getting back to beefing up the frame rails, I do have that stripped out white donor car. I could probably rig up a way to flex the rails and see how strong they are. Then add bracing to see how effective it is at reducing that flex.
The thing is I'm just a shadetree mechanic. I don't have a shop or even a garage. I'm doing all the work in my front yard, so a full tube frame just isn't possible.
Getting back to beefing up the frame rails, I do have that stripped out white donor car. I could probably rig up a way to flex the rails and see how strong they are. Then add bracing to see how effective it is at reducing that flex.
Last edited by JasonWW; 03-31-2011 at 12:52 AM.