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Strano/Koni DA's install (insulator bolt torque, shock settings?)

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Old 04-03-2011, 12:14 PM
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Default Strano/Koni DA's install (insulator bolt torque, shock settings?)

Im in the middle on this install, I need some info.
Im installing the Koni DA's and Strano springs. I need some info not covered in the online "how-to" (http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=6)

How far am I suposed to crank the insulator bolt down (top bolt above the shock mount.

I know Koni are preset from the factory but preset for what? street, track, strip?

I want to set these up for road course, as my SS only gets out on weekend cruises, car shows and eventually road course.

Even though I bought the Koni DA's I noticed that the Strano spring crosses the travel path or sweep path of the Koni adjustment window. So setting these up before I bolt it down to the car would be nice.

I would just rotate the spring untill I have clearance but the shock mount has an inpression that forces the spring to seat a specific way.
Old 04-04-2011, 08:27 AM
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I still need help with this as I have the car on stands still.

I am having the most ridiculous/frustrating time removing the rusted passenger side isolator bolt. I have tried everything I can think of short of taking it to NTB.

The shock stem threads are crushed/stripped severly from trying to use vise-grips.
Old 04-04-2011, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Blackfly
Im in the middle on this install, I need some info.
Im installing the Koni DA's and Strano springs. I need some info not covered in the online "how-to" (http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=6)

How far am I suposed to crank the insulator bolt down (top bolt above the shock mount.
I think all the way down or to some ft/lbs, I don't remember sorry.

I know Koni are preset from the factory but preset for what? street, track, strip?
They should be just set at full soft, but there is no telling until you adjust them and see.

Even though I bought the Koni DA's I noticed that the Strano spring crosses the travel path or sweep path of the Koni adjustment window. So setting these up before I bolt it down to the car would be nice.
You can turn the spring and see if that helps any, but worse case scenario you just have to jack the car up a little to extend the spring and reach the adjuster. I have to do this anyway because I can't fit my hand in there when its on the ground.
You can call Sam for setting but generally the "middle" is a good starting point (count the sweeps from full soft to full hard, and then divide by 2. If I remember right there are 9 sweeps, so you can do 4 or 5 sweeps from full hard to start).

Originally Posted by Blackfly
I still need help with this as I have the car on stands still.

I am having the most ridiculous/frustrating time removing the rusted passenger side isolator bolt. I have tried everything I can think of short of taking it to NTB.

The shock stem threads are crushed/stripped severly from trying to use vise-grips.
Cut that sucker off.
Old 04-04-2011, 10:23 AM
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cut the old shock shaft from below the rubber isolator then pound out the shaft with a punch, worked good for me, saved me tons of time on the passenger side, instead of trying to screw around with removing the top nut, as even when i did by cutting it off, the shaft was like welded in the isolator from rust and even the spring pressure wouldnt knock it off.
Old 04-04-2011, 12:46 PM
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PM sam strano and he can guide you in right direction
Old 04-05-2011, 04:18 PM
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Try the S/A setting for compression, and the middle setting for rebound. That should put you right at Koni Yellows.



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