Strano/Koni DA's install (insulator bolt torque, shock settings?)
#1
Strano/Koni DA's install (insulator bolt torque, shock settings?)
Im in the middle on this install, I need some info.
Im installing the Koni DA's and Strano springs. I need some info not covered in the online "how-to" (http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=6)
How far am I suposed to crank the insulator bolt down (top bolt above the shock mount.
I know Koni are preset from the factory but preset for what? street, track, strip?
I want to set these up for road course, as my SS only gets out on weekend cruises, car shows and eventually road course.
Even though I bought the Koni DA's I noticed that the Strano spring crosses the travel path or sweep path of the Koni adjustment window. So setting these up before I bolt it down to the car would be nice.
I would just rotate the spring untill I have clearance but the shock mount has an inpression that forces the spring to seat a specific way.
Im installing the Koni DA's and Strano springs. I need some info not covered in the online "how-to" (http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=6)
How far am I suposed to crank the insulator bolt down (top bolt above the shock mount.
I know Koni are preset from the factory but preset for what? street, track, strip?
I want to set these up for road course, as my SS only gets out on weekend cruises, car shows and eventually road course.
Even though I bought the Koni DA's I noticed that the Strano spring crosses the travel path or sweep path of the Koni adjustment window. So setting these up before I bolt it down to the car would be nice.
I would just rotate the spring untill I have clearance but the shock mount has an inpression that forces the spring to seat a specific way.
#2
I still need help with this as I have the car on stands still.
I am having the most ridiculous/frustrating time removing the rusted passenger side isolator bolt. I have tried everything I can think of short of taking it to NTB.
The shock stem threads are crushed/stripped severly from trying to use vise-grips.
I am having the most ridiculous/frustrating time removing the rusted passenger side isolator bolt. I have tried everything I can think of short of taking it to NTB.
The shock stem threads are crushed/stripped severly from trying to use vise-grips.
#3
TECH Senior Member
Im in the middle on this install, I need some info.
Im installing the Koni DA's and Strano springs. I need some info not covered in the online "how-to" (http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=6)
How far am I suposed to crank the insulator bolt down (top bolt above the shock mount.
Im installing the Koni DA's and Strano springs. I need some info not covered in the online "how-to" (http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=6)
How far am I suposed to crank the insulator bolt down (top bolt above the shock mount.
I know Koni are preset from the factory but preset for what? street, track, strip?
Even though I bought the Koni DA's I noticed that the Strano spring crosses the travel path or sweep path of the Koni adjustment window. So setting these up before I bolt it down to the car would be nice.
You can call Sam for setting but generally the "middle" is a good starting point (count the sweeps from full soft to full hard, and then divide by 2. If I remember right there are 9 sweeps, so you can do 4 or 5 sweeps from full hard to start).
I still need help with this as I have the car on stands still.
I am having the most ridiculous/frustrating time removing the rusted passenger side isolator bolt. I have tried everything I can think of short of taking it to NTB.
The shock stem threads are crushed/stripped severly from trying to use vise-grips.
I am having the most ridiculous/frustrating time removing the rusted passenger side isolator bolt. I have tried everything I can think of short of taking it to NTB.
The shock stem threads are crushed/stripped severly from trying to use vise-grips.
#4
Launching!
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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cut the old shock shaft from below the rubber isolator then pound out the shaft with a punch, worked good for me, saved me tons of time on the passenger side, instead of trying to screw around with removing the top nut, as even when i did by cutting it off, the shaft was like welded in the isolator from rust and even the spring pressure wouldnt knock it off.