libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

All four Swaybar bracket bolts broke off at the head upon removal, what's a good solution to get out the rest of the bolts? Surprisingly, Strano's swaybar kit did not include new bracket bolts!

What replacements are you all using? I noticed the ends after the threads on the OEM bolts are all rounded off -- does that signify something, or just the design?

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

i take it they were original and rusted solid, or maybe someone replaced them and used an impact to tighten them. you can try an ez-out, or drill them out. luckily i havent had to do that yet.

69TA

iTrader: (263)

damm that's going to be bitch to remove.

try rust penetration and let it soak for like days

then if there is something to even grab, grab the stud with vise grips or do the ez-out method

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I'd just buy two new front brackets.... it'll be much easier and might cost you $50 (assuming GM still makes them). As for you being surprised that my bars don't come with them... NO bars come with those because there is no reason they should. In all the years of working with swaybars this is the first time I've had someone snap one of those bolts let alone all 4. And even if you had the bolts the old ones are still stuck in there anyway.

69TA

iTrader: (263)

it's a sign

that you need to sell me your Strano bars and forget about this whole mess or getting them broken bolts out.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

The bolts were original, and pretty rusted solid. I did use PB Blast, but didn't give it enough time to penetrate or it didn't matter anyhow? The thread is ALL above the body brackets, none extends below the bracket -- but if I remove the brackets, I worry I could run into the same problem with bolts breaking. :-(

Well, clearly the body bracket bolts are exposed to the same elements the endlinks are -- good enough reason for me to be included in swaybar kits! Everyone cheaps-out these days including only the bare minimum. Plus as these cars get older with more exposure to the elements, the need to replace bolts during upgrades and repairs increases.

I guess the rule of thumb is give apply some penetrating oil a few times a few days in advance of attacking ANY elements-exposed bolts.

I got a PM about this place that makes beefed-up brackets on the car - thought I would share:
http://www.blainefabrication.com/swaybrackets.html

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Cheaps out? Wow. Take a poll, see if it's a common issue. I'm sorry you broke the bolts, but come on, let's get real. I should be responsible for the fact your car has rusty bolts and you snapped them? Eric, please.

You always get up on this soapbox and say things that just come out like you are trying to be difficult. Maybe you aren't, but saying I cheaped out is just beyond reason.

And by the way, the more part, the more cost. And since we recently learned I'm a shyster for daring to run a business I certainly can't justify additional cost to most by adding bolts that NOBODY has issues with but you. Then where does it end? The brackets are kind of weak, which is why Alan Blaine modifies them to be stronger. Should I include those and the bolts that hold those on too?

Come on, be serious.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

^ Nobody blames you for bolts breaking -- unexpected **** happens.

You did make my point for me that "the more part, the more cost", which is why the bolts aren't included, hence my cheap-out comment. Sure reminds me of how Bilstein includes new bracket nuts for the rear shocks, and Koni does not.

Part of the reason for these forums is finding solutions, sharing knowledge and venting -- doesn't mean I'm trying to be difficult.

Glenn98ZM6

Wow! I don't even like Sam and I'm on his side w/ this one. **** happens. I've tracked/raced 4th gens since 1998 and I've never broken one. I've build a number of CMC 4th gens and never broke one.
The OEM bolts are much nicer than anything the aftermarket will supply. The rounded/unthreaded tip helps to prevent cross threading. This allows for faster assembly on the assembly line w/ less risk of crossthreading a bolt.
Can you not reach the part of the bolt threaded above the bracket and continue in the "tight" direction and thread it thru? The threads inside the bracket should be fairly clean and should allow it to come out. You could also use a normal drill bit and see if it will take a big enough bite and turn the bolt out. Use a punch and hit it a few times w/ a hammer to break the corrosion bond between the bolt and the bracket.

Empatho

iTrader: (16)

I was going to take mine off a few weeks ago but I stopped because the bolts felt like they were going to snap off. These cars are just getting older so its not going to be uncommon to hear more about things like this happening.

rg501

iTrader: (2)

this same thing happened to me the other week as well. i only snapped one of the bolts though.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

It is especially true of any car regularly exposed to the elements, esp. year-rounds with winter and salt! This is why I don't buy Strano's "poll challenge" -- of course the garage queens aren't likely to have this issue, the poll would have to exclude them.

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

I think mine come out like butter because of all the drag racing I used to do.
Pulling the bar every other weekend
Still have them on there w/Sam's bars.

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

Oh another good trick I use to remove broken fasteners but you need a mig welder
This kind of explains it;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Asb4RWMvig

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Brilliant! As the guy in the Guinness commercial would say.

Thanks for sharing -- time to invest in a mig welder, I guess...

ShortChevy

iTrader: (21)

I would think it would be stupid to include bolts. The factory bolts are awesome with the projected tip which makes starting easier and harder to cross thread it. Plus only about 5% of people need to replace the bolts. If bolts were included they would be cheapo regular bolts. The other 95% of people would just toss them of stick them in a coffee can. Seems like a pretty good waste. Seriously dude, bolts break, all the time and on different ****. Go to Lowes, HD, of your favorite hardware store and buy some new bolts. Why even bitch?

02_Z28_G

iTrader: (5)

same thing just happened to me this past weekend, expect it was only one of the bolts. So ya'll are saying that I should just be able to go to a local hardware store and buy the same bolt? Or do I get them from a dealership? If one broke there's no tellin how bad the others are so i'll probably just replace all 4 to be on the safe side

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

The bolts broke because when installed, the bolt sticks through the bracket and is exposed above it. It's threads are thereby exposed. Was this a flood car? I'd expect other bolts on this car may have the same issues.

My niece's Focus has about half the transmission pan bolts exposed like this. Yep, every one of them busted off in the transmission body. The Good Uncle to the rescue! I think my idiot brother found his daughter a flood car...

I'd like to suggest you forget about getting the busted bolts out of the old brackets and simply replace the brackets. Go to http://blainefab.com/swaybrackets.html and get their super duty reinforced/powder coated brackets. Super nice guys over there and their stuff is very reasonably priced. As for the bolts, you'd be hard pressed to find a better bolt for this application than the original GM bolts, part number 1638817, about $2.50 each. Lube them up good so the torque from wrenching them goes to clamping the swaybar bracket AND reduces corrosion/rusting of the exposed threads. DO NOT use hardware store bolts. These are flanged head class 10.9 bolts. You'll break standard bolts.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Update: I ended up replacing the brackets the sway brackets attach to...

(definitely NOT a flood car, btw)

ShortChevy

iTrader: (21)

My local hardware store has flanged 10.9 bolts. Places like Fastenall should as well. But you can't beat the GM bolts.