VIP1

Update

Here is a comparison of the Old vs New Design with a set screw added:

(Click Images for larger image)

BrianC98Z28

iTrader: (11)

my question to those that have them how often do you have to adjust the set screw if at all or can you set it and forget it

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

Looking at the recess it sits in, you shouldnt ever have to adjust it, since it physically prevents the thing from turning.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

You shouldn't have to adjust these often at all. We have them preset to a certain tightness. The only time adjusting is required is if or when the delrin lining inside would begin to wear. Once it wears you can tighten the adjusting ring in to apply more tension. This isn't often though since the delrin doesn't wear quickly.

I hope that helps,
Ryan

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Hmm, so I wonder if a Watts Link would improve the performance any of the roto-joint LCAs?

LSwut

iTrader: (2)

PM sent

VIP1

I agree with DietCoke & UMI Performance, you shouldn't have to adjust the set screw unless the Delrin bushings wear. In which case, you can loosen the set screw, screw in the notched side plate, and screw in the set screw again to lock in the side plate.

The set screw keeps the side plate from rotating and backing out which happens on its own as you drive due to normal suspension movement (which leads to rattles as the joint loosens up).

License2Ill

iTrader: (1)

x2.....

License2Ill

iTrader: (1)

This kinda shoots a hole in the foot of all that talk against the stockers. Given that with rubber they do absorb plenty of shock and that they are stamped in a U on purpose to allow for more flexibility also probably on purpose. This supports the guys that step up to 1LE/Moog quality rubbers.

I been thinking about the dual roto joints as well.....but not sure if the impact or noise levels are liveable with.....I wish I could find a more accurate description of both.

Founder performance has a set with johnny joints that uses poly on the swivel joint/rearend side but full poly again on the chassis side without swivel. Which is likely sure to not flex on the chassis side and also transfer impact. It seems like a dual johnny joint with poly or rubber would make more sense in all cases but no one has one. That would work towards full articulation at both ends with some impact/noise resisitance.

And if I can't get the best of both worlds for good street performance....these fuggin stockers keep sounding better and better vs. the price on some of these.

Between the stockers u shaped flexing and rubber bushings it probably comes fuggin close to full articulation. Im just saying we should have access to what we want.

JamRWS6

Here's my 2 cents.

We're constantly looking for good ride quality w/ increased performance for those of us w/ daily drivers. I think you're absolutely right on the rubber for the LCAs. The harshness that can be generated from a solid joint in that location on the body is a big deal to me which is why I won't replace the stock LCA rubber for poly or a rod end/roto joint.

However, I think rod ends have a place as I've had a double rod ended panhard on my car for 20K miles or so. This has made the behavior of the rearend immensely more predictable and planted. Just got roto joints in yesterday to replace the worn our rod ends which is the big reason for the johny joint/roto joint movement.

I think the roto joints have a place but you just have to be careful where you use them as they can definitely make the ride harsh due to the inherent nature that they aren't deflecting and absorbing impacts like the rubber bushings do.