i just had my alignment done after installing the following parts on the front end:
BMR upper control arms (non adjustable)
BMR lower control arms /w 1" drop
strange single adjustable coilovers /w 300lb springs

below are my specs. just wondering what kind of affect this will have on tire wear. car doesnt seem to pull to any noticeable level.

i was under the car with the guy while he was doing it. the camber is off so much on the drivers side because the front adjustment couldnt physically be moved any more. in order to correct it, i'd have to totally remove the control arm to adjust the length of the rear adjustment. i assume i'd have to bring the rear adjuster in more? just the thought of having to take everything apart again just makes me cringe, so dont really want to do that if i dont have to.

parameter...........left.........right..........ra nge
camber . . . . . . . 1.1 . . . . 0.0 . . . . .-0.1 - 0.1
caster . . . . . . . .6.0 . . . . 6.7 . . . . . 4.3 - 5.3
toe . . . . . .. . . . 0.04 . . . 0.04 . . . .-0.10 - 0.10
cross camber . . . . . . . 1.1 .. . . . . . -0.7 - 0.7
cross caster . . . . . . . -0.7 . . . . . . -0.7 - 0.7
total toe . . . .. . . . .. .0.07 . . . . . . -0.20 - 0.20

 

bump.

any opinions on my alignment results?

 

bump.

 

Your caster is a little on the high side, but that will add high speed stability, the trade off being a little more steering effort at low speeds. Not a big deal in my opinion.

However, the left side camber is off. For street driving, and decent tire life, it should match the right side, at "zero". If you were intending to do a lot of hard cornering, and wanted to get the maximum amount of lateral traction, but still manage to see some degree of tire life, then both sides should be a little negative, maybe -.5*, but equal on both sides of the car.

 

i havent noticed any greater steering effort.

this was the side that physically couldn't move any more. in order to fix it, i'd have to take the control arm out to bring the adjuster in a little closer.

 

With power steering, you probably won't notice much, if any, extra effort, but it's nonetheless there.

What's this "adjuster" you're referring to? The camber is adjusted by sliding the a-arm in and out, with the "camber bolt" moving in a slot in the k-member. If the car has been lowered considerably, you may have to elongate this slot carefully, using a die grinder or Dremel tool, to allow for more negative camber to be cranked in...

 

Prepare for worn out left tires. Does it pull left? Its gonna be a bitch, but I'd pull it and adjust the control arm.

 

im talking about the rod end on the BMR lower control arm. you can spin it to adjust in and out. based on the way the control arms are shaped, it was kinda hard to lay them ontop of eachother to get the length exactly right.



no, it doesnt pull, at least not enough to notice (kinda hard to find a road flat/straight enough to know for sure)... but yeah, that was really the main point of my question, is 1 degree variance enough to warrant taking it all apart again.

 

I'd say so, like said above cross camber needs to be as close to 0 as possible.

 

If your camber is positive, then you would have to move the lower control arm out. Did you try contacting BMR?

 

OK, I guess I skimmed over the part about the BMR control arms. I was thinking you had the stock pieces on your car. Yes, you'll have to drop the arm out of place, and screw the rod end (out, I believe) a couple of turns.

 

any pics of your stance with the new arms? im considering a pair and want to see how the car sits... i know ymmv since you have the coilovers too but im considering a set also.

if your sig is current then disregard my request.
thanks!