Koni SA front shocks, top nuts too loose?
05-08-2011, 04:52 PM
#1
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Koni SA front shocks, top nuts too loose? So I just got my car back from the frame shop and they had to tweak the shock towers as somehow they were rolled over towards the right side and because of this, nothing in the front end could be aligned 
. So, since installation, 2 weeks ago, I haven't been able to drive the car due to shipping delays on tires, alignment shop delays, frame tweaking, etc. Now, I have the car back and the front sheet metal panel gaps look like hell (due to the tweaking) but thats besides the point 
I was going to finally play with the settings on the SA front/rear shocks until I noticed the adjustment window had rotated itself to an inaccessible location. I made sure that both of those windows were facing out when I installed the top shock mount and when installed on the vehicle. I doubt the frame shop messed with them and I doubt the alignment shop did as well, since they're not struts and have nothing to do with alignment.
So, judging by the pictures, are the nuts that tighten the top shock mount/dog-bone too loose? IIRC I got about 6-7 threads exposed on each side and it was a major PITA as I had to hold the rod with one wrench and try to tighten the nut with the open side of a combination wrench, fighting the rubber surrounds of the dog-bone every degree of rotation thanks to the super tight lock nut. I don't know how they expect installers get 33 lb-ft of torque on that with the rod wanting to rotate
I noticed in a thread the other day that ideally, you wanted around 10 threads exposed (read that thread after install was complete) but when I was tightening the nut, I remember that the top shock mount was tight against the washer and was getting even more difficult to turn, so I figured I was "good." Also, you can notice that a section of rubber that meets the top of the large flat washer has wiggled free and was hanging by a thread (Right side). This all lead to the conclusion that those 6-7 threads, weren't enough. Am I right?
LEFT SIDE (driver's side)
RIGHT SIDE (passenger's side)
. So, since installation, 2 weeks ago, I haven't been able to drive the car due to shipping delays on tires, alignment shop delays, frame tweaking, etc. Now, I have the car back and the front sheet metal panel gaps look like hell (due to the tweaking) but thats besides the point I was going to finally play with the settings on the SA front/rear shocks until I noticed the adjustment window had rotated itself to an inaccessible location. I made sure that both of those windows were facing out when I installed the top shock mount and when installed on the vehicle. I doubt the frame shop messed with them and I doubt the alignment shop did as well, since they're not struts and have nothing to do with alignment.
So, judging by the pictures, are the nuts that tighten the top shock mount/dog-bone too loose? IIRC I got about 6-7 threads exposed on each side and it was a major PITA as I had to hold the rod with one wrench and try to tighten the nut with the open side of a combination wrench, fighting the rubber surrounds of the dog-bone every degree of rotation thanks to the super tight lock nut. I don't know how they expect installers get 33 lb-ft of torque on that with the rod wanting to rotate
I noticed in a thread the other day that ideally, you wanted around 10 threads exposed (read that thread after install was complete) but when I was tightening the nut, I remember that the top shock mount was tight against the washer and was getting even more difficult to turn, so I figured I was "good." Also, you can notice that a section of rubber that meets the top of the large flat washer has wiggled free and was hanging by a thread (Right side). This all lead to the conclusion that those 6-7 threads, weren't enough. Am I right?
LEFT SIDE (driver's side)
RIGHT SIDE (passenger's side)
05-10-2011, 04:31 PM
#2
Last pic shows space between the washer/spacer and the adjustment "hat" which leads me to believe at least that side is not tight enough. You should hear some banging/clunking noises while driving over bumps if they are loose as well. When you tighten down that top nut with the spring compressed you're pretty much guaranteed it will be tight enough. After you release the springs from the compressors there is so much tension on the assembly that these "hats" will not move. It is a pain but I recommend double checking everything- been there, corrected it, never make that mistake again!
05-10-2011, 04:43 PM
#3
yeah, if you were tightening the nut on the top of the shocks without the spring being compressed, it is highly likely that you did not get them tightened down enough. as the nut tightens down against the spring like that, the spring compresses, causing more tension on the nut until it is extremely difficult or impossible to turn it anymore.
you should make sure to compress the spring enough that the nut tightens up on its own without the tension of the spring on it to ensure that it is tight enough.....then release the spring compression slowly until it mates up with the top plate, and you should be good.
you should make sure to compress the spring enough that the nut tightens up on its own without the tension of the spring on it to ensure that it is tight enough.....then release the spring compression slowly until it mates up with the top plate, and you should be good.
